2005 C230 kompressor spark plug change - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-30-2011, 04:49 PM
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2005 C230 kompressor spark plug change

I have a 2005 C230 kompressor (W203, M271 engine). I changed the spark plugs this weekend. Disclaimer: I am a lawyer, not a mechanic. This is for information purposes only. You should have auto maintenance done by trained and experienced professionals. You could injure or kill yourself and/or destroy your car and tools if you work on it yourself. I’m not responsible for any of that. Other models or years may be totally different. This is what I used.

¼” ratchet and sockets
nutdriver that uses ¼” sockets
3/8” ratchet, extensions
5/8” spark plug socket
E8 star socket ($20 star socket set at Autozone)
4 new Bosch spark plugs, FR6332 per spec in manual (ordered from Amazon, $40 shipped. Few auto parts stores will have this plug in stock)
torque wrench (18.5 ft. lbs. included in range)

These are the steps I followed.

1. Wait until engine is cold. You don’t want to burn yourself on hot parts.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable. It is grounded near the battery on a stud and nut. Anytime working on anything electrical, do this first. Be careful not to drop the nut. I did and had to use a flashlight and magnetic pick up to fish it out from where it fell into a gap by the battery.



3. Remove plastic engine cover. It just pulls off at the corners.

4. You will see the coils. The M271 uses coil on plug ignition. There is one coil per plug and no spark plug wires or distributor. If there is dirt or grime, blow it off with compressed air or clean it off. You don’t want anything to fall into cylinder because it could mean a new engine. On my car, it was clean enough to eat under the cover. Thanks, cover.



5. Pinch both wiring harness tabs where harness connects to coil and unplug harness connector.

6. The coil is held on by 2 long bolts with E8 star heads. Use ¼” ratchet and E8 star socket to remove these. I had to buy the star sockets set at Autozone. I have worked on various German and Japanese cars for years and this is the first time I needed star sockets.





7. Here you see the plug at the bottom of the spark plug well.



9. Use ratchet, extensions and 5/8” spark plug socket to remove spark plug. It should stay in the socket.



10. Get the new plug ready. Put a thin coat of high temp anti seize paste on the threads only. Plugs are pregapped to correct gap so I didn't worry about setting the gap.



11. Put new plug in the spark plug socket. Using the extension (NO ratchet yet) hand thread the plug in hand tight. Always start it by hand to avoid cross threading. Unless you want to spend thousands at the dealer to have a helicoil insert put in when you cross thread. When you have it hand tight and are 100% sure you didn’t cross thread, use torque wrench to tighten to 18.5 ft. lbs. Don't overtighten or you could be paying thousands to the dealer again.

12. Put coil on top of plug. Make sure it is seated. Put the 2 star bolts back in and tighten them down. These are small bolts and don’t require much torque at all. I used a nutdriver to start it and then a little pressure on the ¼” ratchet. A good mechanic once told me that he always uses 1/4" ratchet unless he is sure torque of a 3/8" or larger is needed. A good way to avoid breaking bolts.

13. Reconnect the harness plug.

14. Repeat for the other 3 cylinders. The only one that was a little harder was no. 3. There is very little room to unplug/plug the harness. I had to loosen part of a harness to get enough clearance.



15. Make sure all harnesses are connected and all coil bolts are tightened. Put cover back on. Reconnect neg. battery cable.

15. Start car to make sure it is working right. Write in your service history book that you changed the plugs. Reset the date and time and anything else that was reset. Make sure you have the radio codes in case it makes you reenter that.

16. I cleaned up the plastic parts of engine a little using Vinylex.


2005 C230 kompressor sport, 6-speed manual
1982 Porsche 911 SC

Last edited by schumicat; 01-30-2011 at 05:08 PM.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-31-2011, 07:59 AM
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Nice directions, would like to see this stickied!

I just had the dealer change a coil which cost an arm and a leg. After seeing your pics, I see it would have been simple to do it my self.
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-01-2011, 07:57 AM
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Great post and pictures

...a lawyer who is a grease monkey? I thought they were mutually exclusive!

You're my type of lawyer but did notice the CYA warning at the beginning

By the way you can make a battery saver:
To avoid errors and synching windows ESP etc I made a memory saver (my Haynes manual suggests using one when disconnecting the battery EXCEPT when working around any airbag components)

Got an old 12V accessory plug, soldered a diode in the positive lead i.e. center one (pointing the >| on the diode towards the cig lighter) and crimped a standard female connector on each end of the 2' leads and expanded them a bit with a screw driver. Then plugged in the ends to my deWalt 12v XRP battery from my drill (make sure which is + and -; the most forward terminal is + on deWalt batteries) turned the key to the first notch and plugged in to my lighter (the lighter is a switched device and the circuit is cut if the key is out). After I disconnected my battery (neg first, then pos) and either worked on a item or when I changed out the battery, then when everything is done (new battery installed or worked on a component) re-connected and did not lose any info.

Variation: instead of a cordless 12v or 9.6v power-tool battery you can use a slave 12v car battery, or a 12v lantern battery, or instead of connectors at the end of the leads use a 9v connector and use a 9v battery. Problem with the 9v is that there is very little juice in those and should you open the door, have the trunk open, the lights go on it will drain it very quickly. The cordless tool battery gives you certainly more time to do things, the 12v slave car battery gives you all the time in the world to work on things

a picture is worth a thousand words but a feeling is worth a thousand pictures

Last edited by stevenh; 02-01-2011 at 08:00 AM.
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#4 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 02:50 PM
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I am planning on changing my plug on my 05 C230.
what exactly will happen when i disconnect and reconnect the neg. battery.
and what is esp??
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 08:13 PM
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These are cheap and useful to prevent spiking your electrics when disconnecting/reconnecting - Matson 'Antizap' -- (about $20)

It is permanently connected across the terminals to absorb any spikes

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#6 (permalink) Old 04-10-2011, 05:24 PM
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I changed my plugs over the weekend and did NOT disconnect my battery; no issues whatsoever. I unplugged the connectors before I messed with the screws. Very easy job; however, I did see some oil on the base of plugs 1 and 2 which means I may have a gasket leak. Am I right about this or could it lead to something worse??
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#7 (permalink) Old 04-11-2011, 11:16 AM
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can we get this stickied its way better then the current diy guide as it has pictures
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#8 (permalink) Old 06-14-2012, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schumicat View Post
I have a 2005 C230 kompressor (W203, M271 engine). I changed the spark plugs this weekend. Disclaimer: I am a lawyer, not a mechanic. This is for information purposes only. You should have auto maintenance done by trained and experienced professionals. You could injure or kill yourself and/or destroy your car and tools if you work on it yourself. Im not responsible for any of that. Other models or years may be totally different. This is what I used.

¼ ratchet and sockets
nutdriver that uses ¼ sockets
3/8 ratchet, extensions
5/8 spark plug socket
E8 star socket ($20 star socket set at Autozone)
4 new Bosch spark plugs, FR6332 per spec in manual (ordered from Amazon, $40 shipped. Few auto parts stores will have this plug in stock)
torque wrench (18.5 ft. lbs. included in range)

These are the steps I followed.

1. Wait until engine is cold. You dont want to burn yourself on hot parts.

2. Disconnect negative battery cable. It is grounded near the battery on a stud and nut. Anytime working on anything electrical, do this first. Be careful not to drop the nut. I did and had to use a flashlight and magnetic pick up to fish it out from where it fell into a gap by the battery.



3. Remove plastic engine cover. It just pulls off at the corners.

4. You will see the coils. The M271 uses coil on plug ignition. There is one coil per plug and no spark plug wires or distributor. If there is dirt or grime, blow it off with compressed air or clean it off. You dont want anything to fall into cylinder because it could mean a new engine. On my car, it was clean enough to eat under the cover. Thanks, cover.



5. Pinch both wiring harness tabs where harness connects to coil and unplug harness connector.

6. The coil is held on by 2 long bolts with E8 star heads. Use ¼ ratchet and E8 star socket to remove these. I had to buy the star sockets set at Autozone. I have worked on various German and Japanese cars for years and this is the first time I needed star sockets.





7. Here you see the plug at the bottom of the spark plug well.



9. Use ratchet, extensions and 5/8 spark plug socket to remove spark plug. It should stay in the socket.



10. Get the new plug ready. Put a thin coat of high temp anti seize paste on the threads only. Plugs are pregapped to correct gap so I didn't worry about setting the gap.



11. Put new plug in the spark plug socket. Using the extension (NO ratchet yet) hand thread the plug in hand tight. Always start it by hand to avoid cross threading. Unless you want to spend thousands at the dealer to have a helicoil insert put in when you cross thread. When you have it hand tight and are 100% sure you didnt cross thread, use torque wrench to tighten to 18.5 ft. lbs. Don't overtighten or you could be paying thousands to the dealer again.

12. Put coil on top of plug. Make sure it is seated. Put the 2 star bolts back in and tighten them down. These are small bolts and dont require much torque at all. I used a nutdriver to start it and then a little pressure on the ¼ ratchet. A good mechanic once told me that he always uses 1/4" ratchet unless he is sure torque of a 3/8" or larger is needed. A good way to avoid breaking bolts.

13. Reconnect the harness plug.

14. Repeat for the other 3 cylinders. The only one that was a little harder was no. 3. There is very little room to unplug/plug the harness. I had to loosen part of a harness to get enough clearance.



15. Make sure all harnesses are connected and all coil bolts are tightened. Put cover back on. Reconnect neg. battery cable.

15. Start car to make sure it is working right. Write in your service history book that you changed the plugs. Reset the date and time and anything else that was reset. Make sure you have the radio codes in case it makes you reenter that.

16. I cleaned up the plastic parts of engine a little using Vinylex.

Started on mine yesterday morning, the star 1/4" socket was too short to fit properly around the top of the coil housing, went to Autozone, then home depot, then O'Reilly's to no avail, finally found a long 1/4" socket at sears, works great for removing coil bolts.......then, the bolts could removed but the plastic shroud around the spark plug is firmly in place on all four, ordered new ones as I'm pretty sure the old ones will get ruined pulling them out (not too sturdy) $40 for the 4 at Meyers Auto parts. My car has 50K miles but a 2004, the plastic cover on the engine has never been removed and it cracked it 2 places (where the snap in fasteners were on the right side). So far, $80 for plugs & shrouds & probably a couple of hundred or more for a new engine cover....SIGH
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#9 (permalink) Old 06-14-2012, 11:04 PM
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good job, just a heads up I would call the dealer to see if there's an open recall for the cam magnet connectors and vent hoses on your car. its hard to see from your pics but it seems like you haven't had them done yet(cam mag conn). if there's an open campaign, ask them to check for oil in the harness, especially at the engine ecu. every affected component besides the cam magnets should be covered under the recall
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#10 (permalink) Old 06-15-2012, 07:17 AM
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thanks. I did put the harness extensions in some time ago. I never had the leaking problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kimchee View Post
good job, just a heads up I would call the dealer to see if there's an open recall for the cam magnet connectors and vent hoses on your car. its hard to see from your pics but it seems like you haven't had them done yet(cam mag conn). if there's an open campaign, ask them to check for oil in the harness, especially at the engine ecu. every affected component besides the cam magnets should be covered under the recall

2005 C230 kompressor sport, 6-speed manual
1982 Porsche 911 SC
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