Anyone DIY their own alternator?

[C230 Sport Coup]

There is a rumor that on the C230 you need to remove the Supercharger to get at the alternator?
Is this true?
Anyone ever just replace the brushes and voltage regulator module?
I found a pic of it in the service DVD but can't find a pn anywhere.

I have the 120A Valeo alternator. That much I know.

[C230 Sport Coup]

[Mercedes Benz of Florida]

Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup

There is a rumor that on the C230 you need to remove the Supercharger to get at the alternator?
Is this true?
Anyone ever just replace the brushes and voltage regulator module?
I found a pic of it in the service DVD but can't find a pn anywhere.

I have the 120A Valeo alternator. That much I know.

OOOH!!
I see another DIY Project coming up!
Dang it, why do I keep reading these posts!!

[Streetglower]

the alternator and supercharger are on opposite sides of the car, so the supercharger doesnt need to come off. there are 2 different ways to remove it. once is from the top of car the other from bottom. if its removed from the top, you need to remove the intake tube that goes in front of the drive belt and then remove the 4 bolts that hold the alternator and remove it from the top. if the bottom, you need to loosen the sway bar and drop it and jack up the motor and remove it from the bottom. i have done it both ways and the top method is easier. the voltage regulator is the only part that i believe can be replaced seperately. i have done it sperately.

[C230 Sport Coup]

On the M111 C Coupe, the alternator and SC are on the same side of the car, however as stated the SC is on top, and the alt on the bottom.
There's a large support bracket that holds the SC
Once the bolts were removed, it didn't want to budge.

So, basically the procedure would be.

1. Put the car on ramps.
2. Remove both battery cables, not just one.
3. Unplug the voltage regulator connector from the Alternator from
underneath the car.
4. Pop the cap covering the main power connection,
unscrew nut and disconnect cable. (This can be done later if it's easier)
5. Remove the 2 bolts holding the alternator to the support structure.
6. If it still seems solidly in place, Spray a ton of liquid wrench, or WD40 in and around the bolt holes.
7. For me it didn't come out till I grabbed the brass sleeve and gave it a twist, and then it just fell out.
8. Unbolt the sway bar bracket from the frame on the side nearest the alternator, push the bar forward and the alternator will drop out!
9. Take alternator to and automotive repair shop, have rebuilt,
and reinstall.
10. Pocket $1000 in savings and avoid a breakdown if done before it
dies. Mine had just nubs left for the brushes at 125K miles, but I'm running an ASP pulley also, which turns the alternator faster.
The guy at the shop said I had 1K maybe 2K before I it woulda died.

The other thing is that sometimes when electrical parts fail, they take out other stuff too.

Usually all that goes bad is the brushes, and from my reading that can happen somewhere between 100K and 150K miles.

1st pic.
Here's what the alternator looks like with the bolts removed still sitting in the
bracket. I was stuck at this point till I doused it with liquid wrench.
You can see the brass sleeves, I twisted one a little and it dropped.
I squirted it into the holes where the bolts had been.

2nd pic is the large support structure I mention. It make the alt
kinda hard to get at from up top, as it envelopes the alt.
The large X I put is the belt tensioner. Didn't want to get confused with the alt. The alt mounts on the bottom of that thing.

3rd pic.

A new voltage regulator with new brushes.
If I have time I'll post a pic of my old one, it has like no brushes.

This isn't a hard job, and I have to wonder how the dealers have justified charging people $1200 and more on the forums.

I paid $125 to have mine rebuilt including all new electronics and brushes,
bearings, completely cleaned up, etc. Like new!
Including gas + tax it was about $150 and they did it while I waited, took off for lunch, completed in about 2 hours.
Pacific Auto Electric in Sunnyvale, CA.
A family owned business right off the 101 on Wedell, the frontage road.
In fact they have pics on the wall of the shop when there was no 101 and
Wedell WAS 101. Thats how long they've been in business.


I've always had good service from them.

[C230 Sport Coup]

Here's what the brushes were like on my car at 125K miles.
1 mm from disaster.

[teflonteacup]

Originally Posted by Streetglower

the alternator and supercharger are on opposite sides of the car, so the supercharger doesnt need to come off. there are 2 different ways to remove it. once is from the top of car the other from bottom. if its removed from the top, you need to remove the intake tube that goes in front of the drive belt and then remove the 4 bolts that hold the alternator and remove it from the top. if the bottom, you need to loosen the sway bar and drop it and jack up the motor and remove it from the bottom. i have done it both ways and the top method is easier. the voltage regulator is the only part that i believe can be replaced seperately. i have done it sperately.

Streetglower- is this a 2002 C230 ur talkng about?? From standing over the front of the engine compartment, I can't even see the alternator on my Kompressor coupe past the supercharger, as the alternator is mounted beneath it.


Incidentally, does anyone know where can I find detailed instructions and/or a diagram on how to remove what appears to be the entire top half of the motor in order to get to the alternator?


Thanks!

[C230 Sport Coup]

Streetglower was looking at a different engine not the M111.
(2.3 SC 2002 and before)

As far as instructions to get the airfilter box, and belts off, (top 1/2 of engine? he he)
search on belt replacement, or ASP pulley installation.

That should help.

But basically, you-

a. Undo the single bolt on air box right(while standing facing the front of the car, ie the drivers side in the US) side (inverted torx, you'll need to buy a set, Craftman makes them, or even Kragens has 'em)
b.slide snappy thing holding hose into air box on your right side (facing the engine) over to release hose.
c. Undo hose clamp on left side.
d. Pull up (hard) on entire air box assembly, it will pop out. Note little nubby things on bottom and where they fit as you remove it, you'll need to align those on reinstall.
Once the air box is out, you can see everything, and easy to get to stuff.
e. Use inverted torx (e12 or e14 I think) to pull belt tensioner aside and remove belt.
(is it to the left or right, I forget? the inverted torx is on the front of the tensioner pulley, pull it to the left I think...it won't turn, it's the axle for the pulley.
f. Remove belt (s) I think you only need to do the one

then follow instructions previously in this thread to get the alt out.

Reverse process for reinstall.
See owners manual for belt threading diagram for reinstall, so you don't get it wrong.
1st time rethreading it helps to have an extra hand to hold the tensioner aside while rethreading.
Make sure they don't let go and crush yer fingers!

Make sure the ribs (it's a "6 rib belt) are lined up correctly on all pullies.

Use a uh...shoot crankshaft bolt is. ...27mm? Or was it....24 ?
turn it by hand like once all the way around to make sure the belt flows and is installed correctly.
(This correct size of the socket can be found in ASP pulley install instructions)

And lastly start the car, and check to see you aligned the belts correctly.

It's ok to start the car with airbox off while you check. Don't drive it like that.
Reinstall airbox, line up the nubs, push down hard, it snaps in place.
Line up hoses, slide hose thing on right side, screw down hose clamp left side, reinstall bolt right side.

Good luck! And pocket your savings!
Last dealer story I heard, it was $1500 for an alternator!!! Wow.