|03-22-2008, 10:01 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jan 2008
Vehicle: 05 C230 Sedan Sports Package
Location: Southern California
Bleed Brakes Procedure - 05 C230 K
Is there any special about bleeding brakes on a MB C230. The reason I'm asking is because I'm getting ready to do my front brakes. A guy at my local dealer told me that in order to bleed my brakes I need a special machine otherwise my ABS will not work.. is this true? I have a feeling he's is bsing me.
I am new to MB this is going to be my first time bleeding brakes in my MB.. I have done this before in a Nissan is there anything different?
Should I just bleed my two front wheels just like any other car??
Any suggestions will be highly appreciated.
|03-23-2008, 08:01 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jan 2007
Vehicle: 2002 honda civic (sold), 2009 Mercedes ML350
Location: Miami, florida
bleeding the brakes on a benz isnt any different then any other car. you can do the normal pump pump method with the hel of a second person or use a pressure bleeder, doesnt matter.
|03-24-2008, 07:00 AM||#3 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 05' C230 sold Sept, 09 05' Ford F-150 XLT
Location: Casa Grande, Arizona
I recently did a rotor and pad change and was surprised at how easy it was. The rotor removal was the only problem. They were stuck on and require some work to remove. The only recommendation that I have is to bleed off the brake fluid as you are pushing in the calipers. The brake pad instructions should mention to do this, mine did. All in all a very simple job.
|03-24-2008, 03:59 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Date registered: Feb 2007
Vehicle: 2002 C230 Sport Coup
Location: Norcal Coast
Is there an advantage to bleeding the brakes when you do the pads?
Maybe some crud in the calipers?
The dealer only charges 100 bucks for the bleed so I have them do it, up till now.
If you've gotten air in the lines, you could need the special machine that works the ABS, but only if you've got air in the lines.
Some folks had to do this when installing AMG brakes.
Me, I used a piece of wood wedged against the pedal and the seat to keep constant pressure when removing the caliper so no air would get sucked in.
But you don't need to do any of that to replace pads.
2002 C7 Evolution Orion Blue 2.3L C230 Coupe
Auto-Pano-Oyster Leather-Audio 10
AMG Front bar 22mm-17" Wheels- C32 Brakes- H&R 19mm rear sway
ASP Pulley-Supercharger Muffler Deleted- NGK Copper BKR7E
Supersprint Header-Magnaflow Cat- AR20 Resonator- Remus Muffler
MAF Screen Delete- TB Screen delete
TEIN SS Coilovers -
Clear sides- 2005 tails, Blinkers & Grill- Tinted Windows
Bi-Xenons-Clear Fogs- Clear Side/Stealth Bulbs
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-24-2008 at 04:02 PM.
|03-24-2008, 04:16 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: C230K Sport Sedan
Location: The O.C.
Same as other cars although some people believe that on ABS cars, it's best to have another person pump the pedal vs. use a suction device at the calipers. Start with brakes furthest away from the master cylinder, so right rear first, then left rear, then right front, then left front. You should flush your brake fluid every 2-3 years. Also make sure that you keep topping off your master cylinder or you will make a big mess.
|05-20-2010, 06:16 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Date registered: Dec 2004
Vehicle: CURRENT: 2007 CLK550 Cabriolet, 2002 C240 FORMER: 2001 ML320
Location: Birmingham, AL
The only issue with bleeding brakes on MBZ ABS systems is to make sure that the BAS precharge is not active otherwise you run the slight risk of "sudden pressure release". There's no trick to this. Basically, it should only be active if the engine is running, but to make sure, have your foot on the brake pedal when the engine is shut off. Other than this precaution, you can bleed the brakes using any normal procedure - a vacuum pump at the caliper's bleeder valve, a pressure charge on the reservoir, or a friend pressing the brake pedal.
Personally, I prefer to use the vacuum pump at the caliper. I compress the caliper cylinders and then draw a vacuum on the bleeder with the pump. I would recommend using a contrasting colored brake fluid so you can see when you've pulled all the old fluid out of the line. I like ATE Super Blue, which exceeds all MBZ standards. And the next time, use ATE Type 200 Amber (which is the same as Super Blue, but is the traditional gold color).
|06-15-2013, 07:20 AM||#9 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jan 2011
Location: New Orleans, Louisiana
the dealer has a machine that will activate the abs pump so the fluid stored in the pump and associated plumbing get flushed out. when you use regular methods that fluid in the abs pump and plumbing doesn't get flushed. however it is not much and many people don't worry about it. I bleed brakes w/ a $6 one man brake bleeder kit from pep boys once a year. if you wanted to be really diligent, you could flush, then drive car and activate abs several times (so the fluid in the abs pump moves around) and then flush again. I've never done that though.
2005 C230 kompressor sport, 6-speed manual
1982 Porsche 911 SC
|06-15-2013, 07:50 AM||#10 (permalink)|
when you replace the pads and you are pushing the piston back in , you SHOULD have the bleeder open to keep the fluid from going back up into the abs unit .use a piece of vacuum hose and a jar to catch the old fluid . to bleed the brakes , use same set up , just open bleeder , and pump pedal [ use short strokes , dont go all away down ] , when clear fluid comes out , just close bleeder and move to next wheel .[one man job ]
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