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2001 C240 - Guide for Fuel Filter Change D.I.Y.

103K views 46 replies 28 participants last post by  Sar757 
#1 · (Edited)
You can get a Fuel filter for your c240 at any Autozone / Advance Auto <-- (10% Military Discount).

This guide should work for any C240 between 99-2005.

Tools Needed:



1 Torx Socket
1/4" Socket
10mm Socket
Box that the filter comes in.
Drip Pan
Safety Glasses
Wire Cutter Plyers
Paper & Pen - I like to make diagrams, so when people call me I don't forget how it goes together.


Parts Needed:
4 - #4 Hose Clamps
1 - Fuel Filter

Notes Before starting:

If you have a lift you can use this project will be MUCH easier. Other wise use a jack. (Block your tires)

I used a lift, When you go to remove the skid cover You cant take it off because the cover is part of the lift point.

Location of the Fuel Filter:

Just in front of the Drivers side Rear axle.

Remove your gas cap. The fuel system is a pressurized system so by removing the cap you wont have alot of fuel running everywhere.

Lift the Vehicle.

Use your 10mm socket and remove the 4 Plastic Nuts holding the left skid cover in place.

I placed my cardbox box the filter came in between the cover and the underside of the car to hold the cover down.

Use your Torx wrench and remove the single screw.

Unclamp the two upper hoses that attach to the out plastic filter holder and then lift up and it comes free.

Take wire cutter plyers and cut the left side hose clamps off. (I twisted them free and bent them back off.)

Your hoses may twist off, but mine wouldn't, SO place a flat tip screw driver between the base of the hose and the filter and pry it up till it comes free.

Once the two on the left are removed, use the same technique on the right side.

Now reinstall the hoses in reverse order.

Now apply your 4 hose clamps

Tighten with the 1/4" socket.

Reinstall the plastic filter holder and Torx Screw & Clip hoses into plastic filter holder.

Wipe up all te spilled fuel from the cover.

Reinstall the 4 Plastic 10mm Nuts for skid cover.

Remove Lift/Jacks

Reinstall Gas Cap

Start the car. (NOTE: Now that there is air in the fuel line it may take a second or two longer to start the first time. My car normally is started within a second, it took nearly 3-4 seconds to start, and considerably noticable difference. Turn off the car and start again, car should start normall)

I hope this Guide Helps!!

NeV
 
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#2 ·
Great information for the forum. Thanks...
 
#5 ·
i think

you need to add a pair of gloves to your parts needed, its looks like you just had a cut while doing it. J/K

otherwise it a very good illustration and instructions, good job. THANKS.
 
#6 ·
:thumbsup:

I didn't wear gloves because if you get them soaked in flammable fluid it doesnt come out, and that is a major safety hazard for my line of work...(Helo Pilot).

But yeah those hoses on my car were actually very difficult to get off on my car and I slipped my screw driver... no biggie.
 
#7 ·
Thank you Sir!

for your time sharing your experience to BW board.

Fellow Veteran retired
Senior Chief US Navy. :)
 
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#8 ·
Great info man! That salt coating (yuck) on the car reminds me why I live in south FL!
 
#10 ·
Good Question, Like I mentioned the car will take a bit longer to start. This is because the system needs to re-pressurize, so the basically the air will be forced through the system and will once your car starts all the air should be out of the system. :thumbsup:
 
#11 · (Edited)
Great post , just what I needed. How much fuel is to be expected to escape when doing the installation. Any input would help quite a bit. I am planning to do this next weekend.
 
#13 · (Edited)
No clamps?
Hmmm....
On the C230 I believe there's 5 hoses.
The DVD manual recommends using clamps on the hoses.

For me, I didn't completely pull the old filter,
IMHO it's better to do one or 2 at a time so you don't get confused as to placement, and you can clamp them off to avoid spillage.
You can buy special little hose clamps at most auto parts stores that
sell tools, but I used vise grips (not too tight) and some other clamps I found in the bargain tool bin.

Before starting the car, I turned the key to the 2nd position,
let the fuel pump kick in, and waited for a minutes to let it pressurize.
Not sure if this helps or not, but I didn't get an CEL's and others have.
 
#17 ·
No clamps?
Hmmm....
On the C230 I believe there's 5 hoses.
The DVD manual recommends using clamps on the hoses.
I just swapped out the old fuel filter for a new one today. M111 filter is located in the exact same spot, and is the same filter pictured above. There is only four hoses, not five. I would also recommend using clamps, but definitely not the OEM clamps on there. Get some of the screw type adjustable clamps.
For me, I didn't completely pull the old filter,
IMHO it's better to do one or 2 at a time so you don't get confused as to placement, and you can clamp them off to avoid spillage.
You can buy special little hose clamps at most auto parts stores that
sell tools, but I used vise grips (not too tight) and some other clamps I found in the bargain tool bin.
Before the filter change I ran the tank down to 1/4 full, and didn't have any problems with leakage. Just the fuel already present in the lines, but for the most part it's the filter that leaks a lot. The lines stay in place, so it's not to hard to mix it up, but definitely make sure you get it right... :)
Before starting the car, I turned the key to the 2nd position,
let the fuel pump kick in, and waited for a minutes to let it pressurize.
Not sure if this helps or not, but I didn't get an CEL's and others have.
Good tip. I knew the oil filter has this feature, but didn't know about fuel pump. :) It was nearly dark when I had just finished getting all the clamps tightened down, so I haven't started vehicle yet. Have to figure out how to get that holding clip back onto the filter tomorrow...
 
#18 ·
I just swapped out the old fuel filter for a new one today. M111 filter is located in the exact same spot, and is the same filter pictured above. There is only four hoses, not five. I would also recommend using clamps, but definitely not the OEM clamps on there. Get some of the screw type adjustable clamps.
just curious as i will be doing this thursday, what size hose clamps should i get? i am going to order a set of 10 from autohaus...thanks.
 
#20 ·
Followed all the steps properly as outlined in the forum. My installation seems to be a success and far less than the $225.00 the dealership wanted. I bought the fuel filter from Autozone Part # FF868 for $39.95. Hopefully it is comparable to any other aftermarket fuel filter. Anyone used one from Autozone yet instead of the OEM MB brand with or without problems later on? If you don't mind smelling like gasoline, the savings for a DIY is well worth it.
 
#21 ·
Thank you to everyone on this thread... Just replaced mine with a WIX filter ($60 from O'Reilly Auto) and it only took a couple of hours; mainly because the hoses were frozen on to the original filter (Car has 51,500 Miles).

Funny thing though, the filter says Wix, then there's a MANN label on it and also "Made In Israel"

I thought Mann filters were made in Germany all this time...
 
#25 · (Edited)
Question: What is the recommended method of relieving fuel pressure? I've seen the following options mentioned in manuals and threads:

1) My Haynes manual instructs to remove the fuel pump fuse and briefly start the engine to burn the fuel on the engine side of the pump, until the engine dies from lack of fuel pressure.

2) Pushing in on Schraeder valve on engine will expell excess fuel and relieve fuel pressure

3) Briefly open gas cap (although this doesn't seem like it would do it because it's on the wrong side of the fuel pump ... does this really work?)

4) Let the gas bleed out of the fuel lines are you disconnect them, relieving pressure as the gas spills out (sounds messy and potentially dangerous)

5) squeeze-clamp the lines as you disconnect them to keep gas from spilling, and presumably to hold the pressure in.

I realize every option listed above may work -- I would prefer to use the most convenient and safest method. I would appreciate hearing opinions on this, especially if you know what the authorized repair centers do.

I also have two other questions related to the entire option:

A) Should I disconnect the (-) battery cable when working on this? The Haynes manual recommends it, but I haven't seen anyone else ever mention it.

B) Should I use squeeze clamps anyway when removing hoses from the filter, to minimize gas spillage? Or do these clamps wear on the hoses, making them more susceptible to cracking?

Thanks. John
 
#27 ·
Question: What is the recommended method of relieving fuel pressure? I've seen the following options mentioned in manuals and threads:

1) My Haynes manual instructs to remove the fuel pump fuse and briefly start the engine to burn the fuel on the engine side of the pump, until the engine dies from lack of fuel pressure.

2) Pushing in on Schraeder valve on engine will expell excess fuel and relieve fuel pressure

3) Briefly open gas cap (although this doesn't seem like it would do it because it's on the wrong side of the fuel pump ... does this really work?)

4) Let the gas bleed out of the fuel lines are you disconnect them, relieving pressure as the gas spills out (sounds messy and potentially dangerous)

5) squeeze-clamp the lines as you disconnect them to keep gas from spilling, and presumably to hold the pressure in.

I realize every option listed above may work -- I would prefer to use the most convenient and safest method. I would appreciate hearing opinions on this, especially if you know what the authorized repair centers do.

I also have two other questions related to the entire option:

A) Should I disconnect the (-) battery cable when working on this? The Haynes manual recommends it, but I haven't seen anyone else ever mention it.

B) Should I use squeeze clamps anyway when removing hoses from the filter, to minimize gas spillage? Or do these clamps wear on the hoses, making them more susceptible to cracking?

Thanks. John[/QUOTE

ALWAYS KEEP in mind FUEL comes in 2 form LIQUID>GAS matter VOLATILE
and COMBUSTIBLE.and as always FISSION+FUSION=REACTION chemically...

1. JUST KEEP GAS CAP OFF/OPEN SO YOU DONT BATHE IN GAS
2. NO FIRE OR FLAME NEAR FUMES also FART
3. to be safe or feel safer HAVE FIRE EXTINGUISHER NEAR YOU OR ANOTHER PERSON AROUND WHEN YOU WORK WITH FUEL LINE...just in case

"I SMOKE A CIGARETTE WHILE DOING THIS...AND WEAR MICHEAL PHELPS SPEEDO GOGGLES FOR EYE SAFETY"
 
#26 ·
At what mileage/year should you replace the fuel filter?
 
#28 ·
Just did this tonight on my c320. My local shop wanted 162, pep boys wanted 200. As I was cleaning my wheels I looked under the car and saw the filter. Looked a little closer and noticed the stock hose clamps had already been replaced. SO I went to auto zone spent 39.99 and replaced it myself in 20 minutes. Forgot to open gas cap, lost about a beer can worth of fuel. used a little soap to slide hoses on easier car almost started on first turn fired right up on second. By the way there was no clamp on the smallest hose. So, took off two bolts on pan, 1 torx bolt and 3 hose clamps. Done. Why they charge 200 plus I have no idea
 
#32 ·
Hopefully they didn't consider it another "lifetime" component.

I changed mine at 90k after 7 years and the old one wasn't giving me problems.

Unless there are more firm recommendations I would suggest you schedule this either when you do your spark plugs (every 60k mi) or tranny and diff (every 40k mi).
 
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