Hey man that part number supercedes to A271-150-29-33 but it is the right harness we had one in stock so I checked to make sure retail cost was 391.55 I can get one for about 250$, as for install, if you have never done one it's kind of a bitch you have to take off the air box, intake and supercharger to get to all the connections not really that easy if your not familiar with it but it is possible let me know
Thanks
Chris
Wow, Thanks for the info. I've taken the airbox off before and that's quite a procedure in itself. I have the official maintenance manual on CD and couldn't find a procedure for replacing that harness is there a procedure number for this? I like to expand my DIY horizons maybe I'll attempt it unless there are a number of special tools required? I'm sure there will be a number of expendable parts too, like intake manifold gasket and what ever gaskets the supercharger has. If it's just a matter of taking your time and following the procedure step-by-step and keeping track of which bolts go where, I can do that, but if it takes some experience and know how then I might have to take it to the dealer.
Hey man thats great, once you get the whole air box off it's not too bad from there, the only reason you need to take off the superchager is to get to the knock sensor, There is no WIS document for the harness and the only seals I have had to replace were the intake gaskets, the supercharger has a different type of gasket that you can re use, you may or may not have to replace the injector seal rings depending if you take the fuel rail off I don't but be caure because there is a guide nipple on the intake that can snap off, if you snap it off it's not a huge deal, if you take the throttle actuator off then you will have to replace that seal as well but you can get around that, anyway of you have had the complete airbox assem. off then you should be alright with the rest of the job if you feel comfortable, let me know what you decide or if you have any other questions
oh.. and there are no special tools either but you will need a swivel e10 for the intake and e12 for the supercharger i believe
Thanks again, not familiar with e10 and e12 designation, searching the internet it looks like these are Torx sockets with an integral u-joint or ball joint? Do you know a site where to get these?
Sorry for all the questions.
I cleaned the connectors a few days ago so I'll see how long it lasts this is the third time. I really don't want to take so much of the engine apart if I can help it.
Yea thats what I use but an inverted torx socket with a swivel attachment works just fine Have you replaced both your cam magnets yet??? Ya if your not getting a check engine light you should be fine just make sure you check the harness where it goes into your M.E. Computer at the airbox if you ever see oil in there thats bad!! But i dont mind the questions Im just happy to help
I have seen some oil in the control module connector in the past but since I've put the isolating wires at the cam magnets that's stayed pretty clean. I haven't replaced the cam magnets but I might just do that. It's really only the oil that migrates down to the O2 sensor connector that's giving the check engine light (CEL). When I get the CEL I try not to drive the car until I can clean the connector because I believe its the heater in the O2sensor that fails.
I haven't looked that closely at the sensors, but one question comes to mind, can they be rotated so the wire connection is pointing up? Once I get my car back from the dealer for the vent hose recall I may just need to play for a while. I was just wondering if anyone has tried this.
Also instead of spending $60 on a couple of pieces of wire and four connectors, has anyone just cut the existing wires, and extend them by soldering some wires in place. I guess time is money, much easier and quicker just to snap in place the extensions.
Just pondering before starting the day, well goofing off at work if you want the truth.
Al
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'03 C230 Kompressor Coupe stock, 06 Jeep Rubicon lifted and trail rated, '58 Farmall Cub, '42 Allis C, '57 International hot rod pick-up (under construction)
Soldering is not usually a good idea in automotive environments. The adapters appear to be more than just wire extensions, they actually block the oil from coming up the wires via capillary action.
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