I have been using an oil extractor for years now (from Griot's Garage). It takes everything out. When using an extractor, you should not drain the oil out while the engine is cold. Run the engine 7 - 10 minutes, then run the extraction. The dealerships in my area (Seattle) all do it this way.
There seems to be a lot of mixed information on whether to use the conventional drain plug draining method or the oil extractor. I was hoping that someone with a qualified MB background can clear this up? The oil extractor is a lot more convenient so I would like to use this if it is actually more efficient. By the way rayabello, running the car for 10 minutes and then letting it rest for 5-10 is the norm with drain plug method also.
As to my above previous post. Although the dealership said that the Castrol Syntec would not cause additional engine damage, I was told by a retired MB mechanic/technician that it would cause additional damage during cold start ups. The additional weight of the oil is the cause of the added damage. On this forum I was also told that the Castrol Syntec is not true synthetic oil, but instead, extra refined conventional oil. If anyone is having troubles finding the Mobil-1 0w-40, it is available at Autozone, Checker Auto, and a few other stores. Today I returned the Castrol (Wal-mart), and purchased the Mobil-1 0w-40 (Autozone). Still awaiting the oil change, and I have decided to stop driving my car until it is changed. Should have it done tomorrow.
__________________ Both of my girls... My Car;02' C230 Kompressor Sportcoupe Modifications: ASP Overdrive Pulley - NGK Iridium IX Sparkplugs - Kompressor Silencer Removed ---------------- Clear Side Indicator Covers
Good call on sticking with Mobil 1 0W-40. I have heard from some other threads to check the Mobil 1 package as well to ensure it says on the back "MB Spec#". I heard some of the retailers carry stock without this on the label.
Good tip, and yes I did do that before purchasing. The reason why is it didn't show "Tri-Synthetic" anywhere on the container. I guess none of them do. Another good note is that the 6 quarts of Mobil-1 0w-40 was only about five dollars more than the 6 quarts of Castrol Syntec 10w-40. Really good pricing on the Mobil-1 being that it is a far better synthetic (If you could even call the Castrol synthetic...).
Well, today I had the oil filter, and oil changed. Did it at a Wal-mart TLE, and had a friend of mine, who works at the TLE, and is very car smart do it. I wrote out the instructions for him off this thread, and everything went just fine. I actually helped do the work also. Easy to get the underbody cover and engine cover off. Engine cover is just a clip type system that pulls off. Underbody is bolted.
For anyone interested. You can go into the TLE bay and watch the guy work on your car. All you need is to wear a pair of the safety glasses they use. It's Wal-mart safety regulations that you must wear the safety glasses while in the bay area. It was only $10 dollars to have the oil and filter changed when I purchased the filter and oil myself. That ran the total up to about $65 dollars. Hell of a lot better than the $140 dollars the dealership wanted.
Now to my question. We put in the 5.25 quarts as suggested on this thread, and the dip stick only read a little less than half way inbetween min/max. Decided this was not enough oil and put the full 6 quarts in, which only brought the dip stick to halfway inbetween min/max. I ran the car for a while, assuming it would raise from heat expansion, and it still only reads halfway inbetween. What's going on here? I feel like I should put more oil in, but based on this thread I also feel that might be a bad idea. I'm going to call the dealership here in a few if they are open.
In my "C-Class Sportcoupe Operator's Manual" inside the "Technical data" section is reads;
"Fuels, coolants, lubricants etc. - capacities
...
...
........................................ Capacity ..................... Fuels, coolants, lubricants etc.
Engine with oil filter |||||| 7.4 US qt (7.0 1) ||||||| Recommended engine oils"
I'm at a loss as to why Spoons guide says to use 6 quarts maximum when the manual for my car says 7.4 quarts? Is his car a different engine model? I hope driving for a few between the min/max wasn't bad for my car... Someone please verify. I would rather not call the dealership, and sound like a complete idiot.
Something else that I have realized. In this picture posted by spoons;
When we took the filter out of the car there was not a bottom attachment as in his photograph where the small and medium o-rings are. Just the top filter cap. We also looked down into the engine where the filter is, and that piece was not down in the engine, or at least not from what I can recall. Am I missing that bottom attachment, or is this normal for my engine? I'm sure that would be terrible for my car if it was missing... My filter cap does not have that extended socket area on the top of it. The entire filter cap is like a huge socket area. At the TLE they used a large cup like socket that covered the entire filter cap to remove it. If I'm not explaining it good enough I can get a photograph. Let me know.
I think that this guide is for the supercharged 1.8lt C230K, and that is why there are these few differences?
I was looking at this thread and wondering if anyone can tell me what is done on service A and B? I am new to the benz world (it is the wife's car) and just paid 250 for service A that on paper looks like an oil change!!! Then they told me i needed to have the brakes pads replaced and the front rotors turned for a mere 900..
I personally have an 03 Harley F150 (charged tuned and ready ) So needless to say i don't mind turning wrenches just want to know what all they are doing. I can change the oil with a gold filter for less than that..........
) So needless to say i don't mind turning wrenches just want to know what all they are doing. I can change the oil with a gold filter for less than that..........
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