Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

Brake Maintenance / Pad replacement (2005 230 Sport)

10K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  sd300td 
#1 ·
Preparation – Lift vehicle and support, remove front road wheel(s), place rage under and around master cylinder reservoir as brake fluid can eat paint like no other, turn on radio and gather tools.

Brake service;
1. Using a properly sized blunt drift pin tap out the safety retaining pins. Once the in is ½ way out of the caliper (1A.) the anti rattle retaining clip is applying the pressure – press the clip into the brake pad and remove pin.
2. Remove the brake wear sensor – it is on the passenger side. It is easiest to remove from caliper with two light ribs top and bottom.
3. Compress (C clamp, adjustable wrench, flat bade screw driver, etc) the brake pad into the caliper to move back the piston(s) – watch your fluid level in the master cylinder reserve – as you do not want it to over flow. Once there is enough room to remove pad – extract.
4. Depending on where you live and the seasons you drive in – clean up and maintenance will differ. Here you can see how horrid the caliper slide landings are and the corrosion on the caliper piston. I took my time, files flat (decked) the landings, cleaned all corrosion. While doing this DO NOT hit the piston or its protection boot, and run the vacuum the whole time – obviously you have been wearing a protective mask, safety glasses and gloves this whole time – right? Once it is all clean – lubricate the caliper landings – do not get it on the rotor.
5. After carefully cleaning the piston – add some high temp caliper lubrication to it – this acts as a sealant and lubricant for the boot and the piston.
6. This is a good time to measure the pads and check for rotor run out. I filed the pad landings smooth and square, cleaned the pads and then lubricated the backs well and the landings lightly – the top and bottom (landings) are done lightly so that the lubricant does not migrate to the rotor.
7. Heck – while you’re here – paint the parts! I did not remove the caliper but I did paint it with two part high temp caliper paint. These are OEM brembo calipers…why not make them look that way? I painted the caliper red (not to paint rubber or safety pin housing), and painted any rust I found – struts, sway bar at mount, and head light leveling bracket needed some black, then I clear coated all lines (fuel, brake, etc) to protect them. If you remove the brake sensor it is 8NM to put it back on – with high temp lock tight. Reinstall your cleaned pads into your clean calipers!
8. Reinstall the lower pin after you have high temp never seized it. Load the clip to the lower pin and rotate it up, tap in the upper pin (with high temp never seize) to seat the clip. You will need to be pressing the clip into the pads. Once everything is started tap the pins home – you need to seat them and feel for bounce back – when the pin is resting on its stops. This also insures that the collapsible safety ring is seated.
9. Mask off the brembo logo and paint, I went with black lettering – remount the wheels and your set. – Don’t forget to pump the brakes before you go to get everything happy and regain pedal pressure!
Jake
 

Attachments

See less See more
5
#6 ·
This was virtually the same as my 1980 w123 and the w126 brakes I have been messing with as an upgrade...I would assume that is close to the 2003. The only difference is that the 1980 uses removable clips (&), and the 2005 has a collapsible collar.

I did this as maintenance, lubrication.
Jake
 
#7 ·
Normally I would say this is the correct way of doing front brakes except that with ABS you really need to open the brake bleed screw while you compress the piston back into the calipers or you'll force dirt into the abs system and possibly damage it. Then the savings on the pad replacement won't seem like such a bargain. Of course before opening the bleed screw, attached tubing to it to collect the fluid so it's not all over the floor. You will then have to bleed the brakes but here's were its different with ABS also, it's not a good idea to use a suction type bleeder. You should do it the old fashion way with someone pressing the brake pedal whilst you watch it come out and the close the bleed screw when there's no more air bubbles. Fill the cup about 1/4th of the way with fluid so you don't accidently suck air back into the system.

Also, it didn't say in the writeup above but I've helped a kid who damaged the piston on his calipers because nobody told him how to compress it properly. If you use apply pressure to the edge of the piston you can warp it and while not readily visible, it will stick and cause problems. What I do is use an old pad laid over the piston and then put the c-clamp over that to press it back in.

Last bit of advise, unless your pads came prefitted with shims, it's best to put some antisqueel compound on the back, let it dry for 15-20 minutes and then put them in to keep them from squeeling. Also I've beveled the leading/trailing edge of the pads to keep them from squeeling. Some pads come that way, some don't.
 
#8 ·
I agree with all you said buell...I pull mine out every 10,000 miles or so (on most cars) and on this write up, this job - I re used the pads, so I only pushed the piston .02", .04" back.... after that I cleaned and lubricated everything...Buffalo NY is hard on cars, and this is good preventative maintenance...
Jake
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top