Shake in steering wheel after lower control arm replacement - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Shake in steering wheel after lower control arm replacement

I just replaced the lower control arms on my 97 C230 197k due to the right ones failure due to rusting out. Did the lower ball joints too. New tires cooper cs3 and newer rims that needed 15 and 20 mm spacer rings get them out back to where they should be. Tires balanced front end alignment done. Steering wheel starts to shake a bit at 60 gets a liittle worse higher up. I didnt take it up to 60 before I replaced the rotors with semi cheap rockauto centric. I had slotted rotors on there and didnt replace or reface the pads before noticing the shaking, I put the slotteds back on after the shaking ( down to 6 mins a side lol) and the wheel still shakes. Going to send the new rotors back and get better quality ones and pads. Any thoughts on bosch vs brembo? If it doesnt cure it replacing the calipers too. When the control arm failed it forced the tire up under the fender but the brake lines top control arm and tie rods all passed mass state inspection after. Not shaken but stirred for sure.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 02:53 PM
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If the shaking occurs without the brakes being applied, the problem is probably elsewhere.

Are your spacers hub centric? Cheapies?


1999 CLK 320

Last edited by 260e crusier; 06-18-2017 at 02:55 PM.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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They are hub centric yes
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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$120 doesnt seem cheap
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:19 PM
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Do you still have your old set of tires and wheels? If yes, put them back on and see if the vibration is still there.


1999 CLK 320
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
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I dont have them anymore.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Had the fronts balanced twice
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:29 PM
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Just did the same thing, replaced the lower control arms after the passenger one failed and shoved the tire up into the fenderwell. New ball joints, new arms, alignment, and all is well again.

Brakes should not remotely be the issue unless the shaking occurs under braking... if the rotor is warped/bent..it will be scraping as it spins, vibrating as pressure is applied. Just rolling down the road it won't cause issues unless it is horribly bad like visibly bent/broken.

Now, the hub spacers could be out of balance, misaligned, machined with a slight cant etc.... can you remove them and drive the vehicle to see if the vibration is gone? Also double check all the bolts to ensure they are tight...and the final tightening sequence should have been done with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension. Also the unlikely possibility that something else was damaged during the failure... upper control arm, shock, drag linkage etc.

We're the spacers installed and working before the control arm failed?
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Spacers were needed for the newer rims they are 8 hole but were for an e class I think and needed 10mm so I got 2 5mm in each front 1 12mm in the back. Cant drive without them unless I have shorter bolts. The holes in the rims are 14mm but the bolts are 12mm I didnt final tighten under load I impact wrench them up on the jack I could try that. The rest of the suspension is fine like I said it passed mass inspection and I inspected and check for looseness. Maybe the upper control arm bushing might be tweaky the lower bushings were toasty and they came new with the control arms.
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySzy1 View Post
Spacers were needed for the newer rims they are 8 hole but were for an e class I think and needed 10mm so I got 2 5 mm in each front
This might be your problem. Not a good idea to use multiple spacers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySzy1 View Post
The holes in the rims are 14mm but the bolts are 12mm I didnt final tighten under load I impact wrench them up on the jack I could try that.
You need to get special adapter 12 mm bolts with 14 mm ball seats

You need to stop the hack job and do it right!!!!

What else did you neglect to disclose?


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Last edited by 260e crusier; 06-19-2017 at 08:31 AM.
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