Shake in steering wheel after lower control arm replacement - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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Where is a good source foe the adapters. I thought of that but hey I try to make what I have work...thats why I'm asking you guys and fupabox on youtube for your assistance!
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 06:44 AM
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Ok, we can get this sorted out.

DO check the suspension bolts under load, it does make a difference. I like, to use a torque wrench to be certain every bolt is the same preload. Oddly I found no specs for that...

Your vibration is from the mismatched combo of parts. Wrong fastener type/size/length etc... can have a profound impact on the ride quality. (Saying nothing about performance, safety issues)

So to ensure that you are driving a safe car...your own safety and others.... please get the correct parts.

Ideally you would get the correct wheels for your application, spacers are never a good idea.

Do they work...usually. Are they the best option for optimal performance and safety...nope.

Not preaching, but you are putting tremendous shearing forces on the components, stacking tolerances with the double spacers in front, increasing the leverage on the suspension components, not to mention early failure of the bearings. And bushings. Why again are you needing the wheels spaced out from the hub? Just aesthetics, or is it a fitment issue?
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 08:35 AM
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If you have the clearance, try reversing the spacers from front to back to see if the multiple spacers are the problem.


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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySzy1 View Post
Where is a good source foe the adapters. I thought of that but hey I try to make what I have work...thats why I'm asking you guys and fupabox on youtube for your assistance!
There are many sources for adapter lug bolts, just Google it. Here's one:

RAD

Make sure you get the correct length when using spacers.


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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 09:39 AM
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Yep, that is where I bought my lug bolts, and actually Amazon offers the same bolts from the same company. And I agree, spacers are a no-no to begin with, stacked spacers are definitely what is causing the problem. If you just need the spacers because the bolts bottom out, new bolts are the solution and toss the spacers. If you toss the spacers and it still vibrates, find a shop with a Hunter Road Force Balancer, with a tech that knows how to use it. If the vibration is caused by your tire/wheel assembly, that machine will find it 100%.
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 06:32 AM Thread Starter
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I dont think that its neglect its more of the learning curve of the complexities of my vehicle. I am going to put some steel screws through the two 5mm plates and cut them off at the surface to fuse them. Still looking for 12mm 1.5 lugs with the 14mm ballshank is there a source for these?
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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So the reason I put the spacers in was to maintain the original depth of the wheels mainly to avoid any tire rub issues in the front when hard turning. I am using 205 60 15. Do I need the spacers or can I just get the proper bolts and eliminate the spacers which are the problem? Ty guys
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartySzy1 View Post
I dont think that its neglect its more of the learning curve of the complexities of my vehicle. I am going to put some steel screws through the two 5mm plates and cut them off at the surface to fuse them. Still looking for 12mm 1.5 lugs with the 14mm ballshank is there a source for these?
Please don't do this... you will make potentially make it worse. Unless you have a lathe, a mill, and very good measuring tools this will result in creating an off balanced weight spinning around your wheel hub. One that you cannot balance with the tire wheel assembly.

Your wheel hub has a center, everything spinning around it has mass and the centrifugal force is exponentially magnified by the amount of weight added...that why we balance tires, to equalize the unsprung spinning mass around the wheel hub. There is no way in hell to get 2 spacer plates screwed together and ground down balanced properly for an automotive application where the safety of everyone on the street depends on your vehicle being properly set up.

You also are putting a severe shearing load on the lugbolts...the closer to centerline they are to the wheel hub, the greater their clamping force...this is why wider offset wheels are used rather than spacers. I get that you want to use these wheels and tires...but you are so much better starting over, selling this combo and getting wheels that are designed for your application without the goofy spacers.

For the bolts....Try a fastenal store as they can get every fastener ever made. McMaster Carr is another. If you absolutely MUST use these wheels because they were carried by Jesus and have a map to the holy grail engraved on them... here is the proper way... call Stockton wheel...they will move the centerline of the mounting for you. Next option would be to tig weld the spacers to the rear of the wheel then machine them square to a perfect 90 degree to the centerline so they can be properly balanced with the tire. But this does not correct the shearing problem you will be creating especially on turns at speed. I am a hot rod make it work kinda guy, not a purist screaming about original this and that....but this will get you killed if not done properly. You will also spend MORE to set up this combo then buying a proper offset wheel..
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply I do understand all the balance concepts..I wish I had scoped the rims out better when I bought them. I am going to look for a trade deal place to get my style rims back that arent beat to shit.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Cant they wont fit in the back
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