Greetings,
Just inherited a mint condition C280. It has 113k miles and has not had plugs and wires replaced. Running well, and motor mounts replaced at 80k. I have perused this forum and found a lot of excellent information.
This is my first MB, but I do a lot of DIY work on my other cars. I am planning to do this job once the weather warms up a bit in the Northeast.
Couple of questions come to mind. Should I use anti-seize or not? Seems to be conflicting opinions. Also, how stuck should I expect these plugs to be? It will be a bit nerve wracking if it takes a lot of torque to get them out. Do the motor mounts have to be loosened to get at them? The drivers side does look a little tight.
Any other tips appreciated as well.
Thanks much
Jim
I did the first plug change at 60m on my 2000 C280 and had the same fears but it was routine. Yours should be OK.
There was no anti-seize on the plugs so I would assume that is factory procedure. If you did use some then you would have to use it carefully. You would get some on the bore which would be there forever for future plug changes so as you are wrestling in new plugs, some may get on the tips of the new plugs.
For me access was harder on passenger side. If you have a pretty good box of tools you may not need one of these but this one or others like it come in real handy. Change wires also as you may mangle the old ones getting them out.
I used a little dielectric electric grease on the wire end of the plug.
I always use a small bit of antiseize, but I have an M111 with an ASP pulley, and run NGK copper plugs. I change them with every oil change, 10,000 miles.
If you use the OEM plug, which is platinum, you won't need to change plugs nearly as often.
With an aluminum head and steel plug threads, it is a good idea to use a small amount of antiseize. Especially for those who plan on increasing the frequency of plug replacement for performance reasons. Dielectric grease is necessary for every connection. It will keep the rubber parts from fusing with the ceramic if the plugs.
Get new wires- the old wires might break when you take them off (even just one). Then you won't have a car to drive.
New wires will let you move on worry free. Part number 1121500019.
Karlyn is a good aftermarket brand. Make sure you torque to about 20 ft-lbs, that is important.
__________________ Mercedes-Benz - Engineered like no other car in the world.
You DON'T want to use Anti-Seize... the OEM plugs have Nickle Plated Threads which functions as an Anti-Seize/Anti-Corrosion layer.
Application of Anti-Seize will lower the coefficient of friction, yielding a HIGHER effective torque value than is indicated on your torque wrench.... the LAST thing you want to do on these engines is OVER-TIGHTEN the plugs.
Welcome aboard. Plugs are no big deal, just take your time and don't force anything. A bit of anti seize is good insurance. I have a 98 c230 and just did the plugs not too long ago. Wires were fine, though I don't know if they were original or not.
Do you have the service history on the car? Things that need to be attended to are the transmission fluid as well as all the other fluids including brakes. They need to be flushed every two years. Preventative maintenance is the best diy work you can do on the car. I'm new to MB as well and from what I can tell the car is maintenance friendly, especially with routine items.
The V6 has 12 plugs and 12 wires so it is a little more crowded. After you try a few, you'll realize how handy that wrench is but it is only helpful if the 17mm fits on your old wires.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
