My '99 C280 has been hesitating some for the past couple of months. Example is when I put it in drive and start to give it some gas, the car will try to accelerating but then stops accelerating and then accelerates again. It can do that several time before I finally get to enough speed where it doesn't do it. It also will not behave this way all the time. It is random, but it seems to be happening more and more. I thought I had a bad MAF sensor and so I replaced it, but I repalced it with a cheap $35 from Ebay, which helped a little but didn't solve the issue. I then replaced that MAF sensor with another from Ebay, but this one cost $75. Each time I replaced the MAF sensor, it did help a little. The car would still give me hesitation but not so often. It also does not show Check Engine light. I have kinda lived with it, but over the last few days, it has begun to stall out completely and shut off when I am accelerating from a stop sign or light. Had a frighten moment when it stall in the middle of making a left hand turn in an intersection when a car was coming right at me. I was able to throw the car in park, and restart engine and then throw it in drive and speed off with incident. I then decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor. Now while that did give me some nice pep to acceleration, the car still hesitates and stalls out. I am not going to drive the car in traffic until I figure out the issue. I now do my test drives at night as not to worry about traffic.
What has me confused is, when it stalls, I can restart the car and it will then drive fine for a while, and just when you think all is good, it will start to hesitate again. Once I get up to over 45mph, I don't seem to have as manner problems. I can accellerate from 45mph to around 80mph with out any problems really. Every now and then I can feel a tad bit of hesitation but nother major at all. It seems to be the worse when I am accellerating from speed from 0 to around 35mph. I am wondering if I may have another MAF sensor issue. Any ideas of what else to look at? Thanks in advance for any advice. I am trying not to have to take it to the dealership if possible.
Vehicle: 1998 c230 134k cluster doing kooky things :P
Location: Exit 98, New Jersey, U.S.
Posts: 1,253
Get the codes read, there probably is a stored code and please don't buy knock of MAF's
get a Bosch and be done with it.
I would suggest getting a new fuel filter, air filter, inspecting the coils, wires, plugs and vacuum lines, all of which will not cost much. B
Thanks Bmeister. I went ahead and order the Bosch MAF sensor. I did get the codes read and here they are...
P0161
P0156
P0170
P0173
P0110
P0100
I also forgot to state that the car does idle rough when I am in drive, so I hope the Bosch MAF Sensor fixes my issues. I have been doing a lot of reading and I now know to stay away from cheap ebay MAF Sensors. Let me know what you think of the codes and what else they may point to.
Thanks Bmeister. I went ahead and order the Bosch MAF sensor. I did get the codes read and here they are...
P0161
P0156
P0170
P0173
P0110
P0100
I also forgot to state that the car does idle rough when I am in drive, so I hope the Bosch MAF Sensor fixes my issues. I have been doing a lot of reading and I now know to stay away from cheap ebay MAF Sensors. Let me know what you think of the codes and what else they may point to.
Thanks
Please click user cp and add your vehicle and location to your profile, it's useful information.
The P0100, P0110 codes are both MAF related (the latter is the IAT sensor, which is built into the MAF on this engine). I am hoping that you bought your Bosch MAF from a reliable source (there is only one on ebay that I'm aware of and they don't always have them) because there are knockoffs in Bosch packaging.
P0170 and P0173 are fuel trim codes, often associated with a bad MAF.
However, they can be triggered by other things, including bad O2 sensors, clogged cats, vacuum leaks, etc.
Your other two codes relate to the rear O2 sensor on the driver's side, you can find it by looking under the car, it screws into the pipe pretty much lateral to the front of the transmission
You don't mention mileage, but if you're much over 100K you should just replace all four of the sensors (the spec is 100K check or replace, and I've no idea how to actually "check" one). If you're doing the work yourself you can buy the Bosch wire-in ones, where you remove yours, measure it next to the replacement, then cut off your connector at the proper length and splice it to the new sensor wires. This is not difficult. However, if you are taking it for this work, you want to buy the ready-built ones because the additional labor for the mechanic to splice them will eat up the small savings. Find your part numbers for them at Bosch's parts finder, then search for them on Amazon, autohausaz.com, rmeuropean.com, etc. I would recommend going with the OEM Bosch, too. If you want to stray off, NTK are fine (that's NGK's O2 sensor arm) but you won't save much.
When you change the MAF this time I would suggest you pull the intake plumbing all the way back so you can check the seals. While you're there, clean the throttle body butterfly and check your breather hoses (and other vacuum lines) for cracks or breaks and feel them to see if they are brittle. Replace any questionable ones.
For future reference, not a lot of the 202s got the M112 engine, so you may want to look at the engine stickies in the 210 forum, there is lots of information in there that is directly applicable to your engine.
Good luck.
__________________ Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy; its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery. (Winston Churchill)
Great info gregs210. I did buy a Bosch MAF this time. It was around $185. I did see a couple on Ebay, but I decided to buy from autopartswarehouse, which I have used several times in the past for my last car. I will pick up some Bosch O2 sensor locally and do anything at once. Will use your advice and check all the way to the throttle body also. As well as the vacuum hoses. She is going on 138k right now and was planning to replace the O2 sensor, plugs and ignition cable this spring when it warms up, but may push all that up now. I just hate working on cars in cold weather I will post back once everything has been done. Thanks.
I am hoping it does because when I replaced the MAF the last 2 times, the car did improve but it only last for about a week or so and then started doing the same thing. I purchased another MAF sensor thinking I just got a bad, and it did the same. That is when I found out that you should get Bosch and not the cheap $30 to $70 MAF sensors. But I will do the O2 sensor also, see if I can get a couple more mile per gallon out of her.
I usually start with the lowest numbered codes first. The MAF may fix everything.
He has two codes from the same sensor, one for the primary sensor circuit, the other for the heater circuit. Unless the thing is simply unplugged (which is a possibility, so idigital, climb under and take a look) replacing the MAF isn't going to do a thing for those two codes. At 138K he's already gotten more than the design life, too.
idigital, note that there are FOUR O2 sensors on your car. A pair before the front cat and and a pair after it. You're coding on the one after on the driver's side. The wires from it run under a clip on the front of the AT pan and the harness snaps into a clip near there as well. It's worth a quick look to see if it's torn loose from road debris or something, but otherwise just order and replace it. You can wait until spring/summer for the other three. Bosch 15094 is the P/N for your sensor that is coding.
I love this forum. It is causing me to not miss my Diamante that much. I will check that once I get home. If it warms up later this weekend, I may get all the O2 sensor done. I live in Florida and when it gets down in the 30's it is beyond freezing to me.
I love this forum. It is causing me to not miss my Diamante that much. I will check that once I get home. If it warms up later this weekend, I may get all the O2 sensor done. I live in Florida and when it gets down in the 30's it is beyond freezing to me.
True, people that haven't been there in the winter don't appreciate that it can get cold. Well, more do after the Challenger tragedy, I suppose.
You mentioned autopartswarehouse, some members have had problems with them shipping wrong parts, etc. I have everything good to say about autohausaz.com, great parts and prices, free shipping at $50. I have been dealing nearly exclusively with them for several years and have yet to have a problem. If you need a dealer item duvalmotorcars.com is an MB dealer in Gainesville (much closer to you than me!) that sells at a discount.
BTW, here is the link for the Bosch parts finder (now that I see you're in the US): Vehicle Part Finder
Another link you may find useful: EPC-net Online That's the link to the EPC (electronic parts catalog). You have to give them a credit card to register (to show US citizenship) but it's free and a great resource. If it's an ignition part I'd still use Bosch's site first, lots easier to navigate but for lots of other stuff the EPC is great.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
I was able to throw the car in park, and restart engine and then throw it in drive and speed off with incident. I then decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor. Now while that did give me some nice pep to acceleration, the car still hesitates and stalls out. I am not going to drive the car in traffic until I figure out the issue. I now do my test drives at night as not to worry about traffic. 
I will post back once everything has been done. Thanks.
Linear Mode
