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What did you do to your 202 today?

255K views 1K replies 224 participants last post by  cadman777 
#1 · (Edited)
Lifted the thread idea from Vortex, started one on the 201 board... why not here too.

I'll start:

Washed, waxed and steam cleaned the interior of the 202, then I drove my 16V like an ass and took some pictures of the 202 in a cemetery.







Ahhhh... 16V fun. That exhaust note make me wet my pants!

 
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#34 ·
Today was Sunday. I noticed during the week when the car drives off there is a lot of water coming from the wheel arches. I decided to clean the drain system. I looked in from the top but the top looked clean. I removed some of the plastic nuts holding the mud guard (pictured). I then put my hand into the gap and cleaned out the blockage. I retrieved and entire dustpan full of dirt (pictured). Then I stuck a garden hose through the top and washed it out well. I checked the other side as well but that was clean.
 

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#35 ·
Finally changed the trarry fluid. What came out looked like water with mud. The tranny supposedly was swapped under warranty at 65K miles, but I'm not buying that story judging by the shape of the fluid that came out. The car has 138K miles right now, so that's how old the fluid was. Everything seems Ok now.

Changing the tranny fluid is not that difficult, provide one has the proper tools (I recomment high quality tools) and the fluid measuring stick. Also, you will spill some fluid on the floor, so prepare for that.
 
#36 ·
I replaced suspension pieces and steering parts. Also did an A service and replaced all the belts and PS fluid.

Roller Arm Bushings
Center Link
Steering Damper
Re-torque Steering Gear
Alignment

The car drives like brand new again

I plan on doing some Bilstien HD Shocks in the near future... but it feels so tight again that I will wait until I am used to this ride before doing them.
 
#37 ·
Changed the oil and the oil filter today. I also changed the idler arm bush because it was knocking loudly. I have pics of the oil I used and of the bush as well. The new bush and the old bush is self explanatory. The oil is an Australian brand; it's full synthetic and as you can see meets the required Mercedes specification. The oil filter is from the dealer and is genuine Mercedes, so is the idler arm bush.
 

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#38 ·
Isn't our oil to be 0w40 with a spec of MB 229.5?

I think 10w40 is not good for the engine. I could be wrong.
 
#40 ·
This might help Mercedes-Benz Betriebsstoffe-Extranet

The viscosity numbers you see on the bottle are not the specifications. They tell you how oil is going to perform in a certain temperature range. For example 0w-40 is good in USA but would be useless in the middle of the Gobi desert. (I have a placematt on my desk with a map of the world on it and I can see the Gobi desert...hehe)

Another thing to consider is the wear and tear on the engine. As the engine gets older and wears down the "gaps", making the gaps bigger than they should be, thicker oil is needed to lubricate these gaps. That's not saying that a Mercedes with 178000km on it has big gaps otherwise I would be using maybe a 20W-50 oil.

I too thought that one type a oil has to be adhered to for the life of the car but my dad is a mechanic and has been working on European for 50 years and he best friend works at BMW and they have taught me lots of the years. I would trust them with my life, letalone the life of my car.

I'm not trying to convert anyone from a specific way of thinking, only to tell you that this is the level of thought that goes into my decisions about my cars.
 
#42 ·
i live in southeast GA and on hot days is over 100, and the coldest it gets in the winter is maybe 30 on a bad night. i used the 0w-40 for a while in my c220 and then i switched to 5w-40 because its a hotter climate here, and i have noticed that its feels better with the 5w-40 in it. also, i had my clk serviced in jacksonville, fl and they put in 5w-40 mobil 1. i could see using 10w-40 in Australia due to the hot climate.
 
#43 ·
When I changed the oil in my car I noticed that the front main seal (crankshaft seal) was leaking oil. Not too much but enough to bother me. I went to the dealer and bought a new seal. Cost me $29.65 AUD. If it starts leaking faster I will have to change it sooner rather than later.
 
#45 ·
Infrequent lubrication item day! Lubricated door handles, key holes, door lock/latches, trunk latch, trunk lock/keyhole, hood latching system, sunroof rails and probably some other stuff I can't remember.

If you haven't shot some lubricant into the keyholes in a while, this is important to make sure it will work if your remote ever goes out or your battery dies and you are left to rely on your key blade!
 
#46 ·
I mentioned previously that when I was changing the oil I noticed the crankshaft seal was leaking oil. Today when I came home from work I decided to replace it. I already had the seal ($30 AUD from the dealer). Took some pics in the process.
 

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#48 ·
great question... i think mine might be leaking slightly as well... but i cant tell if its just grime from somewhere else. if its easy... i might as well do it.

yesterday i changed the motor mounds and coolant sensors. the car now idles like a new car in drive haha and i dont overheat anymore with my new sensors :)
 
#49 · (Edited)
Provided you have the right tools, the whole process should only take about an hour.
I took a picture of the tool I used. It's called the "Power Bar" I needed this because I did not want to remove anything else from the car. Most repair shops would have one of these so if you have a friend there you might be able to borrow it. The way this works is, put a 27 mm socket on the end, onto the pulley bolt and a hammer. I have a picture to explain. The bolt is a "normal" thread that loosens anticlockwise and tightens clockwise. The bolt is very tight so it you use this method you might break a socket, but if you have good quality ones they should be up to the task. I'm not sure if the tool is an Australian thing but you can always use other methods to loosen the bolt. The safest method is to remove the starter motor and place a big flat screwdriver between the cogs, then you can loosen the bolt with a heavy duty (ratchet) wrench and 27mm socket. If you don't want to do this you need a fixed wrench (pictured) about 30cm long and with a piece of wood jam the end against the chassis of the car. Have someone turn the ignition key so the engine cranks the smallest amount possible. This will loosen the bolt but someone needs to hold the tool onto the bolt. Obviously if you have a viscous fan this needs to be removed before you can do anything. Once you've loosened the bolt the rest is easy. If you have not done so already, remove the drivebelt. After removing the pulley bolt the pulley should just "jimmy" off by hand and with a little patients (provided it's not rusted on). The pulley has a notch on it so it will only go on one way (no need to mark anything). Be careful not to damage the pulley end or the end of the crankshaft. Next comes the seal. The seal is in there tight. Use a screwdriver or some hooked tool to pries out the seal taking care not to damage the surroundings. Before you take out the seal note how far into the timing chain housing it was. Mine was flush with the edge of the housing. Lightly coat the new seal in clean motor oil and slowly press the seal into the housing. This is an important step so make sure you take your time. Try to push all sides of the seal at the same time so it doesn't bend. Take extreme care that you don't push the seal in too far because from the look of it, the seal can actually fall inside the housing. Now that the seal is back in, put the pulley back on. Now tighten the bolt using a fixed wrench (pictured) and hitting the end of it with a hammer. If you removed the starter motor to loosen the bolt it should be easy to tighten with the cogs still jammed up. If you used the hammer method you need to jack up the car and tighten the bolt from underneath where you can get leverage. With the car jacked up you will notice a small peep hole in the transmission (i think it has a plastic cover but mine doesn't). I inserted a socket between the casing and the bolt head to jam it up. Then you can tighten the bolt. Ok, now driverbelt goes back on and anything else you took off, and your done. This whole process should take and hour but I took 2 hours because I cleaned everything as I went. Cleaned the pulley, the front of the engine etc...Once you decide on a method to use to loosen the bolt the rest is easy (1 star out of 5 difficulty).

If you guys have any other questions, just ask.
 

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#53 ·
Hi Guys, please note that I changed my write up of the front main seal change. More specifically how to tighten the pulley bolt if you haven't removed the starter motor.

I was trying to think how I could get the bolt to 300nm then with the car jacked up I noticed a small round window on the transmission. When you turn the crank the cog inside this window also turns. I jammed a socket between the casing and the bolt on the cog and by doing this you can tighten the pulley bolt beautifully.

Sorry for the missinformation but the phrase "hammer tight" could be very relative to each person so I was trying to think of a way to tighten the bolt with accuracy.
 
#56 ·
inspection, lubricated back fold down seat latches, a wash then gave it a polish so its shiny n frictionless smooth.

Love how these old babies still get compliments like "man, that looks like it's straight out of the showroom" then they're surprised to hear that these things are at least a decade old. I'm glad MB is doing away with the curvy lines and going back to the old style of angles and straight lines.
 
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