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C 230 1998 REAR DIFFERENTIAL OIL

12K views 45 replies 8 participants last post by  G-AMG 
#1 ·
I HAVE 120,000 miles on the car and diff fluid never changed.

SHould I change it now or leave it?

What kind of fluid and how many quarts does it take?

Mechanic told me that some times when you change it late, the diff can go out after the change, true or false?
 
#2 ·
ive heard of that as well, however its just a threory. in my opinion, if its going to go, its going to go. i just changed mine at 130k for what i believe was the first time and its running fine now. i used mobil 1's gear lubricant found in almost any autoparts store. i wanted to use synthetic so thats what i went with, now i have synthetic trans fluid, synthetic diff fluid and using synthetic oil.. hopefully ill experience some fuel savings with those fluids :)
 
#5 ·
Like 1.87 Quarts or until it pours out of the fill hole.

Edit: ALWAYS REMOVE FILL PLUG BEFORE DRAIN PLUG AS FILL PLUG CAN SEIZE AND IF YOU DRAIN FIRST AND YOU CAN'T REMOVE FILL, WELL SOL.
 
#8 ·
So that small diff can hold almost 2 quarts of fluid.

The only question in my mind is that should I just top it off like mechanic said or replace diff fluid with mobil one synthetic?????

Don't want to do it and then need new differential.

They were looking at me strange when I insisted on the 5w40 turbodiesel mobil one syn oil to be used for oil change.
5w40 is 5w40, right?

I haven't changed power steering or break fluid in 10 years cause I don't know how myself.

Break fluid has to do with bleeding the breaks right?
 
#9 ·
I have heard that about changing old fluids in trans and diffs, but it doesn't make sense to me: If your diff is ready to blow with a fluid change, it is ready to blow anyway. Differentials are very stout. I would definitely change it. YMMV

Brake fluid should be changed at two year intervals. Bleeding is a two person job unless you have a power bleeder or speed bleeders. It also helps to have a fluid extractor for a complete change. Check the color of the brake fluid in the reservoir, if it is brown, it likely needs change. If it is low, you likely need brake pads/rotors or both.

Power steering fluid change requires a fluid extractor. I have not changed mine, but we have a PS fluid filter that can be changed. Might start there.

Michael
 
#10 · (Edited)
THE BOTTLE SAYS LS (LIMITED SLIP) ON THE MOBIL ONE 75 W 90 FLUID FOR THE DIFF, IS THAT OK?

9 bucks a quart for synthetic.

WONDER what dealer wants for same oil. Maybe I'll call for price while I am sitting down!!


what KIND/make OF FLUID DO YOU USE for the break fluid?


I am slowly convincing myself to keep vehicle and try to maintain, I will talk with mechanic.
 
#11 ·
Exactly (75w 90). $9 seems steep. Autozone, etc. usually have it for around $6-7. Does your car have LSD? If not, that additive is not necessary if you are paying a premium for it. However, it won't hurt your diff if it doesn't.

Dot 4 synthetic is what I use. Dot 5 is overkill unless you are racing and reaching very high temps.
 
#13 ·
i used ate type 200 or its also called ate super gold. that fluid is dot 4+ i believe is fairly inexpensive from autohaus or any other supplier.

as for power steering fluid i changed mine to synthetic, pentosin chf 11s. i also replaced the filter with a mann or mahle, whatever was available to buy. the change out was very simple. you open up the reservoir, pull out the old filter, suck out the old fluid, replace filter, fill with new fluid, then start car and turn the wheel back and forth several times and then repeat the sucking out of fluid and filling with new. i did this until my 1L can of fluid was almost all gone and the power steering reservoir was at the full mark. the ps fluid is more expensive than brake fluid, i think mine was around 30 dollars, however i did notice a difference in steering.

there are serveral great diy on here for both brakes and ps fluid. G-AMG does them the best :thumbsup:
 
#15 ·
Dude,

For what you are going to pay a mechanic, go out and buy yourself a power bleeder, and do the job yourself... Nothing like the satisfaction of caring for your baby.... YOURSELF!
Plus, you KNOW the job was done... correctly!!

I have heard of STEALERSHIPS just "Exchanging" the fluid in the Reservoir... and that's it!! What a JOKE!

The Differentials and Brake bleeding procedures are, literally, a "2 out of 10" on the mechanical difficulty scale.

You will need a litre of Brake fluid (MB, ATE200, Castrol GTLMA are all good, and "easy" on the rubber components), and get 2 bottles of Differential fluid (the diff takes around 1,5 litres).

Here are the How to's for the W202:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1395042-photo-diy-rear-differential-oil-change-2.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1395045-photo-diy-brake-bleeding-using-power.html

Have fun!
 
#16 ·
you can also use a vacuum on the bleeder nipple. i used my extractor, pumped up a vacuum and sucked the old fluid through the line until new stuff came out, then shut the valve and removed the vacuum.

i only used about half of my 1L can of brake fluid to bleed all the brakes and fill the reservoir.
 
#17 ·
I don't wish to "stir the pot", but I think alot of folks would argue that applying vacuum to a brake circut is not a good thing... the rationale being it is more likely to promote microbubble formation.

Another better option would be the "One Way Valve" bleeders available. You place it on the bleeding nipple, unscrew the nipple, then you "Pump the brakes" (aka "old school bleeding"), which supplies sufficient pressure to the brake circut to flush the system nicely, but the "one way valve" prevents air being sucked in.

Just make sure you keep the reservoir filled.
 
#25 ·
The fluid is probably ATE. One of their formulas is a "Blue" colour.

Either way, if it really is 12 years old.... get it out!

Actually, the "blue" will help you to bleed correctly, because you will notice a transition from a blue to the light amber of a MB or Castrol fluid.
 
#26 ·
I was just reading on the 5W40 MOBIL ONE FOR TURBODIESELS that I have in the non diesel C 230.

I don't think that this oil , even though it is 5W40, was made for this gas engine?

It says turbodiesel on the plastic jug, but not the 229.5 numbers for MB.

Should I get that stuff out or wait till next oil change??
 
#27 ·
Bleeder kit et. al.

Even Harbor Freight carries a "one man bleeder kit" for a few bucks and it works just fine. The bottle is a little smal for changing out the fluid though. I did ours when we changed out the stock rims for the blingy ones we bought from a CLK. I had my Wife pumping the pedal on command and I rocked it at the wheel cylinders. Piece of cake and no strain on the Marraige either.:p

I think the service schedule says something about changing the brake fluid every so often but I can't recall the interval.

I did not notice although someone may have mentioned... Start with the farthest wheel from the Master Cylinder and work towards it.

Good Luck to all and Welcome back G-AMG!:thumbsup:

C as in 220
 
#29 ·
I just put it in 200 miles ago, I am wondering if I should get it out or wait 5000 miles for next oil change.

That is the only MOBIL 1 5 W 40 THAT THEY HAVE IN WALMART, 4 QUARTS AT THE PRICE OF 5 FOR THE 5W30.


I was reading where the LOTUS guys use the turbodiesel oil, but it is bad for catalytic converters.
 
#31 ·
the 5w40 oil you bought is the correct stuff. it says turbo diesel on it, but it can be used in any type of car. our cars just happen to call for the simillar weight and viscosity of most turbodiesel cars. if you look up your car on mobiles website they will tell you 0w-40. since you are in a hotter climate i highly recommend 5w-40 since it has a higher weight and will provide you better protection in the higher temperatures.

the last time my i had a car serviced at the dealership here in jacksonville, fl. the dealer put in 5w-40 in my clk430 which is not a diesel or turbo. its just a plain 4.3L V8

i use it in my c220 as well. this has been brought up several times on this forum, but i use 5000 mile oil change intervals and my fluid is never black. it is amber/brown when i remove it. if you use a high quality filter and synthetic fluid im sure you could wait 10,000 miles to change your oil, but im not that brave. alot of newer cars have 7,500 mile service intervals even on conventional motor oils!
 
#32 · (Edited)
I WAS READING ABOUT THE catalysts, AND that there were problems with this oil WEIGHT.

I read where in another MB forum, same question by someone else lead to people giving advise to replace oil with 0w40.

MY OIL IS LIGHT BROWN AS WELL AT 5000 MILES WITH SYNTHETIC AND I BELIEVE 3000 MILES TO CHANGE IS OVER KILL.
 
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