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Old 09-27-2008, 11:03 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Vehicle: '96 C220 n/a diesel
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Post brakedisc change

i have a 1996 c220 diesel, at present it has solid discs front, does the vented discs and calipers fit straight on to the hub or is there more to it? cheers
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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should be straight fit, if changing calipers too then make sure u bleed the system really good
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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tehe... davo... c220 cdi


just like me mate... tehe



if u'll spend enough time on the internet u'll find plenty of vented discs for c class all around... calipers r the same... but (as said b4) bleed the whole system really good... n takin advantage of replacin the discs- check ur hubs mate- the tread on wheelnuts holes is often wasted



good luck n b patient mate- david
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Old 09-27-2008, 08:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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sorry i forgot to mention after taking wheels off make sure u use a bit a bit of anti-sieze grease on the lugbolts everytime because ive noticed most benz guys tend to break one here and there, when i first bought the car tried to take them off, 3 broke on the same hub about 3 hours later they wree all out but it was a painfull session i tell ya , anti sieze worked for my family for a long time on our benzes, lol good luck
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Old 09-28-2008, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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thank guys just have to source the nessecary now lol
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Buybrakes.com is a place I use often good prices and some coupon codes are out their for check out time. Pricelooter.com - Buybrakes.com Coupon Code | Pricelooter.com

I bought the Gold EBC ones they are still gold after about 8 months. Some sort of antirust coating is on them.
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Old 12-19-2008, 02:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well guys wasnt as easy as we thought, had to go for c280 calipers and slides, had to get the slides from merc tho, they were near as expensive as the calipers! but they do work so well, black diamonds all round that are x-drilled and grooved, it'll stop on a 10p piece now! (dime) lol
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Old 12-20-2008, 04:10 PM   #8 (permalink)
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side note: I think antisieze on wheel lugs is about the worst idea in the world. If you can't get your lugs off, its because somebody took an impact to put them on and way overtorqued them. Antiseize is a terrible idea. Remember; you torque your wheels to make sure they don't come off. You don't want the lugs to be easy to come off, especially not while driving!
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you're wrong anti seize will not make them come off its called ANTI-SEIZE just means it won't corrode between and not seize up , and the term "a little bit" means a touch of it on the lugbolt not dip it in the fucking stuff, i fucking hate when people say something stupid and have no idea what they're talking about, i work on heavy trucks, garbage front loaders rear loaders roll off hoists lugger trucks, and we use anti seize on every nut n bolt and cylinder retainer bolts which are mostly torqued anywhere from 30-to 500lbs after the antiseize they are torqued to spec, those parts are all moving on the truck under heavy load and have to come off for repair or inspection every 2-3 years so please dont say anything u have no clue about and keep your shit to yourself, by the way I have a bottle of NAPA anti seize and interestingly
enough, it says on the bottle to use anti seize on lug nuts. so i guess napa has no clue what they're talking about eh

Last edited by 00_230_K; 12-20-2008 at 05:26 PM. Reason: more
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is this garbage truck mechanic for real?

ha. wow. This garbage truck mechanic really got himself worked up.

And yes, Napa is probably wrong. Here's some good articles for all to read. Heck, go ahead and google anti-seize lug and read the hundreds of arguments for or against. All those for anti-seize simply state "they've used it in the past and nothing bad ever happened" while those against seemed to break it down with much more intelligent arguments. See for yourself

taken from Tundra Solutions Forum "I once worked with an engineer whose previous job was writing software for a "bolt tightening measuring whatsit" to be used by NASA. The intent was to measure the tension forces on a tightened bolt by measuring the lengthwise stretch of the bolt as it was tightened. The method was ultrasonic transducers, microprocessors, and software. It worked nicely.
What developed from their research was that the relationship between the torque applied to the bolt and the lengthwise tension forces induced thereby is highly dependent on the condition of the threads. For example, if the threads are dirty and/or rusted, it can require a high torque just to turn the bolt, much less tighten it. The problem with anti-sieze compound is that it lubricates the threads, which can result in a very much higher tension in the bolt than the torque used to tighten it would provide with clean, dry threads. So, if you put it on your lug bolts and tighten it to the recommended 83 ft-lbs of torque, you could break the stud, or the wheel, or both, or you could warp the brake drum, the hub, or the disk.
I understand the desire to use anti-sieze compound on lug bolts. I once broke a lug off while taking a lug not OFF because it siezed up. Since then, I've made sure I have clean, dry, rust-free threads before putting a lug nut on, and I've never had a problem since.""


Brake & Front End Blog: NO ANTI-SEIZE ON WHEEL STUDS OR LUG NUTS

Tire Tech Information - How to Install Your Wheel & Tire Package

What torque wrenches measure


Then again, I have "no f*ing clue what I'm talking about, eh?" This guy's like the next Governor Blagojevich
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