DIY w/Pictures: 2000 C230 Brake Change w/Rotors & Sensors - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 02-11-2008, 02:21 PM
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DIY w/Pictures: 2000 C230 Brake Change w/Rotors & Sensors

2000 Mercedes Benz C230 Kompressor Brake Change with Rotors & Sensor

It was time to change my Brakes at 66K Miles.
2 Weeks ago my Brake Sensor Light came on indicating my Brake Pads
Need replacing.

I researched and ordered most of my stuff through:
Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips and also through: The Tire Rack - Your performance experts for tires and wheels

This past weekend I changed out Both Front Rotors, Sensors, Brake Pads.
I was planning on changing the Rear Rotors but lo’ and behold the
Rotors were well within specs. So I left well enough alone. I did not change out the Rear Rotors, but did put in new Brake Pads.

I jacked up the 2000 MB C230 Kompressor and put underneath 3-Ton Jacks
For Personal Safety.
I removed the Wheels, and then began taking Digital Photos. I recommend this because if you forget a step or misinstall, you can at least quickly review how it first looked and save your sanity.

FRONT BRAKE ROTOR & PADS:

• Remove the Spring Clip * Take Close-up Picture of this. I forgot how to reinstall it. Thank Goodness for Digital Cameras!
• Remove the Brake Thickness Sensor
• Unbolt the Wiring Harness
• Unbolt the (2) Bolts holding the Brake Caliper to the Wheel
( Bolts are hiding by a black cap, see photo )
• Open Brake Bleeder Screw-as you work on the Brake System you need it slightly depressurized. Have a drip pan underneath to catch that
Brake Fluid!
• Note how the Brake Pad Sensor is on the old Brake Pad
• On the New Pad-Exactly replicate how it’s installed.
• Remove the Caliper Mounting Bracket. Remove (2) Bolts.
• Remove the Rotor Alignment Screw.
• You will need a Large Blow Hammer to Pound and Pound and Pound the Old Rotor Off! Eventually she will come off but she must be persuaded forcefully.
• Install the New Rotor ** Danger! Remove the Factory Preservation Oil that is on the Rotor. Use Brake Cleaner Spray or Wash the New Rotors in Degreaser
and wash the Preservation Coating off, then Shop Towel it Dry!
• Reinstall everything you removed!
• When you have set the Brake Caliper to the side, one of the Pads will easily “fall off”. The other one has retaining clips on the back of the pads which get inserted into the Brake Piston. Do not Remove it yet.
Open your Brake Bleeder Screw
Use a “C” Clamp and with the old Brake Pad on, and SLOWLY Compress the Piston until its completely in. When its completely compressed, THEN Remove the old Brake Pad.


REAR BRAKE ROTOR & PADS:
I only did the Brake Pads. The Rotors were nearly new.
Take a Digital Photo before you Remove the Brake Pads/Rotors

• Use a Drift Pin to Knock the Retaining Pin Through
• Remove (1) Offending Brake Pad
• Remove the Metal Backing on the Old Pad
• Install that Metal Plate onto the New Brake Pad
• Repeat this for both Brake Pads.
*** Note: Compress the Pistons. Here you cannot use a “C” Clamp here.
But I used a Screwdriver and CAREFULLY pushed the Brake Piston Back in. *** Note again-Open the Bleeder Screw BEFORE you push the Piston back in. It needs to Depressurize first.
• Install the First Brake Pad, then Simply Pull the Old one out,
And do the same.
• Refer to your Digital Photo to reinstall/remind yourself how the
Rear Brakes “should” look like.
Remember-You should have (2) New Brake Pads, with the Reusable
Metal Plate on their Back. Install the Retaining Clip, which is held
In place by the Retaining Pin.
• Make sure you have NO Left Over Parts.
Double Check, Triple Check, Have someone else check your handi work
These are your Brakes. Check, check and recheck.
Once your Satisfied, Use Brake Cleaner and Rewash Everything.

I think I covered all the bases on this one.
This was my 1st time ever replacing the Brakes on a Mercedes Benz.
Completed in about 1 hour +/-. Taking photos absorbs more time than
You can imagine.

Good Luck Everybody!

*** WARNING TO EVERYONE: This does not cover all the steps.
Many things omitted. I will NOT be held responsible for Omissions,
Inclusions or for any problems eminating from this posting.
If you happen to follow my advice you will hold me completely harmless
of any Liability. Seek a Professional Mechanic if you have more trust
In them.


NOTE: Update Your Maintenance Log Book and Reset your FSS.
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Charles
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#2 (permalink) Old 02-11-2008, 03:02 PM
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A couple of questions. (1) why did you reset the FSS, and (2) did you bleed the system when you were done?
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#3 (permalink) Old 02-12-2008, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MarcusF View Post
A couple of questions. (1) why did you reset the FSS, and (2) did you bleed the system when you were done?

Hey Marcus;
I had to reset the FSS, because I had an Oil Change due.
Good this all happened at the same time.
I should have clarified that.

And yes in fact I bled the Brake System all the way around.
It wasn't too bad. Looked a bit like "cherry apple juice"
But I wanted to flush it, so as to establish a base line.
In the photos you might notice a "mess". C'est la vie right?

All in all, it was a darn good day.
MUCH easier than I "imagined".

Charles
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#4 (permalink) Old 02-13-2008, 03:32 PM
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hey, great job on that write up. its people like you....
i do have a questions though, i have a 2000 c230 and it needs REAR brakes. anyway, can you tell me the procedure (and what to look at in the pictures) for Bleeding the Brake Fluid, both front and back. i need to do this and i am not sure where the bleeder screws are and just refresh me as to how it is done cause it has been a few years since i did this kind of work. man thanks . you are helping all of us alot-- keep it up.
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#5 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by baknforth101 View Post
hey, great job on that write up. its people like you....
i do have a questions though, i have a 2000 c230 and it needs REAR brakes. anyway, can you tell me the procedure (and what to look at in the pictures) for Bleeding the Brake Fluid, both front and back. i need to do this and i am not sure where the bleeder screws are and just refresh me as to how it is done cause it has been a few years since i did this kind of work. man thanks . you are helping all of us alot-- keep it up.

Thanks-I bled my Brakes in this sequence.
Front, Passenger
Front, Drivers
Rear, Passenger
Rear, Driver
I used DOT 4 Brake Fluid, every sequence I "topped off" the Fluid.

1st Picture: Upper Left Hand Corner, the Bleeder Screw is covered by a
Black, Rubber Nipple. DO NOT Lose this Rubber Nipple.
That is where the Bleeder Screw is.

2nd Picture you'll see the Wrench on the Bleeder screw.

*** Sorry for the Quality of the Photos. It was ONLY ME with no help so it
was difficult taking pictures.

With a 2-man Operation, you'll need to yell out:
Person Pumping the Brake Pedal: "Open it"
Bleeder: "Open"
Person Pumping the Brake Pedal: "Close it"
Bleeder: "Closed"
etc. etc. etc.
That way no one is confused as to whether its open or closed.
* Later on I had someone help me and it was such a relief !

Good Luck!
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#6 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 08:50 AM
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so if i have 2 people then i have the person pump the brake a few times then hold it down. then i turn the bleeder screw very slowly and release the fluid , making the pedal go all of the way to the floor, right? then i tighten the screw, fill the reservoir, and do it again until the fluid is clean , right? this is how i have helped others do it in the past , but i was always the one in the car so i never got so see what they were doing . --thanks again
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#7 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by baknforth101 View Post
so if i have 2 people then i have the person pump the brake a few times then hold it down. then i turn the bleeder screw very slowly and release the fluid , making the pedal go all of the way to the floor, right? then i tighten the screw, fill the reservoir, and do it again until the fluid is clean , right? this is how i have helped others do it in the past , but i was always the one in the car so i never got so see what they were doing . --thanks again
You got it!
Have your helper sit in the driver's seat and await your orders. Here's the drill: You say "down." He or she depresses the brake pedal with about the same amount of force needed to keep the car from rolling forward at a traffic light. Then your helper says "down" and keeps the pressure on. When you hear the call, warn your helper that the brake pedal is about to sink underfoot and to keep the pressure on constantly. Then crack open the bleeder bolt a quarter-turn. <----THIS IS YOU, OPENING UP THE BLEEDER BOLT.

Some of the old, contaminated fluid will trickle down the Calipers.
When the trickle stops, close the bleeder. Then you say "up." Your helper says "up," and removes his or her foot from the pedal.

Repeat this process until fresh, clear fluid comes from the bleeder. Any out-of-sequence moves can suck air into the caliper.

Every half-dozen or so iterations, top off the reservoir with fresh fluid. Do not allow the reservoir to get more than half empty — air can be sucked into the master cylinder unless the fluid level remains well above the bottom of the reservoir that feeds the cylinder.

Once clean fluid is coming out of the brake, snug the bleeder bolt and move your operation to the Front Drivers, Then Passenger Rear, Then Drivers Rear.

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#8 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 11:19 AM
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I'm definitely bookmarking this post for the future. Doing this for a 280 of the same year should be nearly identical, yes?
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#9 (permalink) Old 02-14-2008, 01:28 PM
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I'm definitely bookmarking this post for the future. Doing this for a 280 of the same year should be nearly identical, yes?

I think it should be nearly the same.
At least the fundamentals are the same.
The First Rotor you remove will be a bear, the 2/3/4 will be a breeze!

Good Luck!

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#10 (permalink) Old 02-15-2008, 08:12 AM
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i have been looking for rear brakes and i have heard/read alot about the sensors for the pads or something . can you tell me if the pads i buy need to have sensors or what exactly i need to buy so that i dont get everything torn apart and then realize i have the wrong part. my car has anti lock brakes but i dont know if it has the pad sensors on it. thanks alot
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