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Replacement Brake Pads for a C280

22K views 18 replies 14 participants last post by  Patman1 
#1 ·
I own a 1999 C280 with 48,500 miles that will be needing new disk brake pads soon. I've read previous posts and checked some of the Benz parts places on line. I have a few questions:

Is it preferable to change the pads before the indicator light on the instrument panel signals the pads need to be replaced?

Should the pad wear sensors be replaced when you change the pads? If so, what is the part number of what needs to be replaced?

I saw on one store's website that they had Kevlar pads that are supposed to wear well and not create all the dust of the OEM pads. They are also less expensive than OEM. Has anyone used these and been satisfied with their performance? I am reluctant to switch from OEM because I am very pleased with the stopping ability of the brakes in the "take no prisoners" commuting on the Capital Beltway around Washington, DC.

Thanks,
Lew
 
#2 ·
Hi Birdman,
Will you be doing your own work? Not that it matters but it's rather easy. I currently have Mintex pads up front. Very grippy and very little brake dust at all. Overall I am very happy with them. I recently replaced the rears with OEM for about $43 I think. The front pads usually come with the sensors. Do a search on the web for "mercedes parts" and check some of the prices. Most carry similar prices but others might have free shipping. Let us know if you need help with something.
 
#4 ·
You can wait until the light on the instrument cluster warns you to change the pads. You can probably drive a couple of thousand miles after the light comes on since you will have at least 10% of pad life left BUT I usually replace my pads soon after the light comes on and NEVER before.
I've tried MINTEX on our ML430 and love them. Was told they don't fit quite as nicely on W202 and W124 but never tried them on those vehicles.
If you are happy with your OEM pads (Textar, Jurid, or Pagid) choose one of those brands.

Sergio
 
#6 ·
1957Birdman said:
Thanks for the information. I do intend to do the job myself. One other question. Is there any way to tell without visual inspection (taking the wheel off) whether your car has the single or dual pin rear disk brakes?
Thanks,
Lew
Later models had the single pin- my manual goes to Aug 2000 and has info on later single pin

Likely that you have single

Hope this helps

Oberoi
 

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#9 ·
You can wait until the light comes on before you change pads( Thats why they put it there, to tell you that it needs to be replaced). If you choose to ignore the light and continue to drive, there is a thin metal piece that touches the disk at a certain level of break wear and makes a high pitch squeeking sound.(on some models only).

Remember that when you replace break pads to remove the brake reservoir cap. If you push back the brake pistons , the pressure will build in the braking system until the cap on the brake reservoir explodes.

Install brake pads and ALWAYS replace the sensors when replacing pads.
Whilst the tyres are removed check the brake disks as well and have them skimmed if they are sligthly worn.

I recommend using Genuine brake pads. Happy Hunting __>
 
#10 ·
I went with EBC green brake pads all the way around. With the OEM pads, my wheels would get covered with brake dust in about 2 or 3 days. With the EBC's I can go several weeks without major build up.

I also replaced all 4 rotors at the same time. The OEM BEHR rotors where more expensive than the EBC Sloted-Vented-and-Cross Drilled ones.

Replaced both brake pad sensors (ordered 4 not knowing they are only on the front - yay extra parts for next time!)

Dealership quoted around $900 to do all this with all OEM parts. I did the labor myself in about 3 hours with much higher end parts for roughly $450.


Stoping power is WONDERFUL now and I never get any "fade" on the brakes.
I now have more braking power than my C280 will ever need.
 
#13 · (Edited)
So get everything assembled and have a jackstand holding the car up when you do this.

Vehicle Car Alloy wheel Automotive tire Tire


Look on the forum for a good list of reliable brand of products or get OEM from the dealer. As you can see almost everything I got was from the dealer minus the Zimmermann Rotors, Rebuilt Calipers and High performance SuperBlue ATE brake fluid.

Vehicle Auto part Technology Car Machine




Once the wheel is off and jack is firmly in place. Clean up the area from any brake dust whether its brake cleaner or a good shop rag/towel you will the brake caliper is composed of two pieces. A floating set up. Use a penetrating lubricant to help break the bolts loose. The bolts hold that center portion of the caliper to the outer portion of the caliper( called an anchor). I dont remember what size those were. 13mm maybe but don't quote me. DO NOT REUSE THOSE BOLTS. You new brake pad sets should come with new bolts use them, they should have a dribble of blue locktite on them already. You will have to use a wrench and a rachet as the nut that holds onto the caliper "floats" in the caliper. Before lifting the caliper, unplug the sensors from the pads. Once the bolts are off lift the caliper off and DO NOT let it dangle as the brake line will be stressed and damaged hang it with something. I used a wire hanger to the coil. Surprisingly heavy so make sure it hangs.
The pads should be sitting on top of the anchor, take them off.


Auto part Vehicle brake Disc brake Wheel Brake


This is the anchor removed the back side of the anchor facing up. The small holes on the bottom being where the caliper bolts on the larger bolt holes are for bolting the anchor to the spindle. Needs only to be removed if replacing the Rotors as well. Again Dont remember the bolt sizes some one please help on this one. was it 17mm? The Rotor popped off after removing a small hex bolt that sits between the wheel bolt holes.


Auto part


This should be what you are staring at when everything is off. It was a great time for me to re-grease my wheel bearings

Auto part Suspension part Suspension Vehicle brake Wheel


So with everything off look at the caliper that's hanging it should contain a plastic cap on top. Pop open the cap and the brake sensors are there. Some say to just leave them be regardless of used or not. I like to change things just to save myself the headache. pop them off. When putting the new pads, be sure to add brake paste to the back of the pads, otherwise risk serious squeaks. Be liberal with the paste. reassemble in reverse order. I don't have the tightening torques on me. I essentially cranked the torque wrench to 60ft/lbs and went at it. But again don't quote me. I should have done this write up back in sep/dec when I remembered everything...

Oh and check the rubber boots on the anchor if they are torn, replace. I added some bearing grease to it and popped my new boots on as mine were torn

anyone care to chime in on the specs and bolts sizes. When I did this, it was my first time as well...
 
#14 ·
The light has gone on letting me know it's time to change the brake pads. I have a C280 1994 and was wondering what tools will I need to do this job and actually how to do it..?? I guess it is different than later models but I have no clue. Any help would be appreciated.
 
#19 ·
Just as a note:

high quality modern ceramic pads are nearly as good as semi-metallic pads, and have the advantage of not wearing out the rotor nearly as much as semi-metallic pads. They also tend to last longer themselves (which offsets their price tag).

The downsides are: they don't dissipate heat as well as semi-metallic pads, and they don't work as effectively when cold.

Considerations: if you live in a warm climate (or don't drive during winter) and you don't do anything other than regular city / highway driving, ceramic pads are fine. If you live in Germany however, and might have to slam on the brakes from 200+ km/h, probably best to stick to semi-metallic pads.
 
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