Hi Guys
New to this excellent forum,sorry to be boring but I have a mint 63000 one owner 1999 C200 Esprit but developed a starting problem which started like this.
When I started the car I had no acceleration turn the car off and try again and it was ok but when driving it would start missing sometimes.
It then developed into when I tried to start the car I just had a loud clicking sound.
Next thing was nothing except the main fan in the engine compartment would spin very fast.
I then took the car to an independant Merc repairer and He could not even get into the ECU with his diagnostics.
End of story (MAIN STEALERS) had to have a new ECU fitted £1700.00 in the end.
The car is working fine now fingers crossed but thought this may be of some use on the forum.
Problem:
Car would start and run just fine, until I would slow down to almost a complete stop then accelerate hard (like when making a right hand turn onto a busy street), then it would stutter, and sometimes even backfire, engine would then run very rough under load and at idle. Turn off engine and restart and problem was corrected.
Problem Cause:
Faulty Ignition Coils.
Solution/Description:
Check Engine light did NOT come on with this problem. MB Shop was not able to find problem. Dealership was not able to recreate or find the problem. Finally after 3 months and several trips to the shop, the car would no longer start. It would crank and crank but get no spark. At that point, the dealership FINALLY detected that 2 of my coils were shot.
The c280 has the inline 6 so there are 3 ignition coils, I replaced all 3 for a cost of around $800. Car works perfectly.
Last edited by BrianDHuff : 12-10-2006 at 05:13 PM.
Problem:
Car would start and run just fine, until I would slow down to almost a complete stop then accelerate hard (like when making a right hand turn onto a busy street), then it would stutter, and sometimes even backfire, engine would then run very rough under load and at idle. Turn off engine and restart and problem was corrected.
Problem Cause:
Faulty Ignition Coils.
Solution/Description:
Check Engine light did NOT come on with this problem. MB Shop was not able to find problem. Dealership was not able to recreate or find the problem. Finally after 3 months and several trips to the shop, the car would no longer start. It would crank and crank but get no spark. At that point, the dealership FINALLY detected that 2 of my coils were shot.
The c280 has the inline 6 so there are 3 ignition coils, I replaced all 3 for a cost of around $800. Car works perfectly.
Had exact same problem. Replaced one bad ignition coil, rubber ends on all three ignition coils, and all three spark plug wires. Car runs better than ever!
Ignition Coil: $86.00 (wholesale from dealer)
Rubber Coil Ends & spark plug wire set: $55.00 (Bosch from Autohausaz.com)
I have the following codes P0101 & P0304. My car idles up and down, not exceeding 1000 rpms. This doesnt happend all the time but its there never the less. At times after fast breaking after being at high speeds it doesnt want to react to throttle up. I also have the same issue as above, it idles rough and if I re-start the car it acts just fine. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Can this type of issue be related to a faulty EGR Valve? What will be the signs of a faulty EGR Valve?
"Once the valve fails to close all the way, it will act as a vacuum leak causing a rough idle, hesitation and possible stalling." (Info found online)
Wow after reading this forum I must say I feel very pleased and lucky with my 1995 C220 Esprit (called SE in Canada) - considering I picked the car up from local public auction at very little money.
it's got 213xxxkm on the clock and it's ticking strong. the only issue with it is that the cruise control is termpermental (works like 10% of the time) and high beam flasher only works when the stalk is pushed forward (i.e. no passing flashes, but regular high beam is ok)
From the way things look I think I got myself into a very deep money pit..... Currently it's at Mercedes getting its SRS light reset (I snapped the coil connector behind the steering wheel by mistake and replaced it with a new part, SRS light is on ever since) they might charge me a lot of money to repair it - oh me so doomed.
anyway paranoia aside here is my finding:
Problem: Car randomly stalls when stopped at the light. with one or more of the following:
- engine check light does not light up when in "test" phase - key in position II ignition off
- ABS light on
- speedometer points at 0 and odometer does not advance
- idle speed randomly drops below 500rpm but if you are alert and you put your right foot down the idle will come back up
Problem cause: faulty OVP causing ECU to be unable to read in MAF sensor readings
Fix: replace with a later model German made OVP. Austrian units are known to fail.
Problem: rough shifts (up and down shifts) in all gears
Problem cause: transmission vaccuum module might be faulty. In my case the PVC straw (<- yes straw) that M-B put in the car simply disconnected from the vaccuum module
solution: check for leaks in the vac system (in my case shove the straw back into the vaccuum tube at the transmission) or a new modulator is required.
I had the same problem with intermittent seats. I replaced the relay in the trunk and it fixed the problem.
Make sure the vehicle is off and no keys in the ignition, and you can carefully pry the plug off the relay. Just be careful not to break it. Replace it at your dealer, about $30.
I read here that it is the relay in the trunk under the plastic cover, I tried to take it out and it is very hard. Does anyone know how to pull it out. And how much for the new one.
The part number is: 0015420219 (this also can be used to replace older part 0015424419)
And it's just a generic relay used for many different functions on the car. Costs about $29 at the stealership or $14 at www.autohausaz.com
Wow after reading this forum I must say I feel very pleased and lucky with my 1995 C220 Esprit (called SE in Canada) - considering I picked the car up from local public auction at very little money.
it's got 213xxxkm on the clock and it's ticking strong. the only issue with it is that the cruise control is termpermental (works like 10% of the time) and high beam flasher only works when the stalk is pushed forward (i.e. no passing flashes, but regular high beam is ok)
From the way things look I think I got myself into a very deep money pit..... Currently it's at Mercedes getting its SRS light reset (I snapped the coil connector behind the steering wheel by mistake and replaced it with a new part, SRS light is on ever since) they might charge me a lot of money to repair it - oh me so doomed.
anyway paranoia aside here is my finding:
Problem: Car randomly stalls when stopped at the light. with one or more of the following:
- engine check light does not light up when in "test" phase - key in position II ignition off
- ABS light on
- speedometer points at 0 and odometer does not advance
- idle speed randomly drops below 500rpm but if you are alert and you put your right foot down the idle will come back up
Problem cause: faulty OVP causing ECU to be unable to read in MAF sensor readings
Fix: replace with a later model German made OVP. Austrian units are known to fail.
Problem: rough shifts (up and down shifts) in all gears
Problem cause: transmission vaccuum module might be faulty. In my case the PVC straw (<- yes straw) that M-B put in the car simply disconnected from the vaccuum module
solution: check for leaks in the vac system (in my case shove the straw back into the vaccuum tube at the transmission) or a new modulator is required.
Problem: rough shifting from 1st to 3rd gear . 3rd to fourth is normal. pvc straw is confirmed connected and in good condition. if transmission vaccume module is faulty then please tell me its location and how much it will cost to replace.
Great source of suppy of parts and technical advise!
I found an excellent parts supplier that was extremely helpful and did no over charged for his parts. I would recommend you use this vendor for technical support and your parts needs. In this world of high prices any source of supply that allows us to keeps these high maintenance cars running at a reasonable price is a plus.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
I have the following codes P0101 & P0304. My car idles up and down, not exceeding 1000 rpms. This doesnt happend all the time but its there never the less. At times after fast breaking after being at high speeds it doesnt want to react to throttle up. I also have the same issue as above, it idles rough and if I re-start the car it acts just fine. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Great source of suppy of parts and technical advise! 
Linear Mode
