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W202 Common Problems and Their Solutions

817K views 365 replies 205 participants last post by  cadman777 
#1 ·
In an effort to improve the W202 forum, we're starting a "common problems and their solutions" thread for W202's. Before posting a new thread in the forum with your question, please check here for a solution as well as doing a search. For readability, please post in this forum in the following format:

Problem Description
Problem Cause
Solution (or link to thread with one)
 
#177 ·
lots of transmission faults, faulty kompressors, and windshield wipers cost a lot to replace...other than than its a beuty...a guy on club202.com has 560,000 on his odometer

[edited by n0alpha]
...this is an example of how NOT to post in this thread. [8D]
Do you have 560,0000 Km or Miles ?. Seems like you have highest miles I have ever seen if it is miles not the KM.
 
#4 ·
Problem: Battery may explode (there was a recall issued for this)
Cause: Excessive gas emissions from battery
Solution: Owner to check electrolyte levels regularly.
Note: Mine blew up two weeks after the car was serviced by the dealer under the recall notice ('99 C230K).

Problem: Occasional very Hard downshift from 2nd to 1st at low speed (5mph or so)
Cause: Unkown ( dealer could not duplicate)
Solution: None. Live with it.
 
#6 ·
The problem is that it is really very intermittent, in my case maybe once a month, but always under the same conditions - driving at low speed through my condo parking structure. The car would just make 2nd gear before I had to ease off the gas.

That would lead me to question the source being a faulty part.

I know it sounds like a petty issue, but when this happens, the rear wheels lock up momentarily, sending you lurching forwards.

BTW, to amplify my earlier post re the battery, you can tell whether your car was a part of the recall by the big stickers placed over the original battery maintenance info in your owner's manual.

To be fair, in my case the battery explosion was triggered by me opening my cell-phone as I reached into the trunk to get my things. Nonetheless, my trunk was obviously and abnormally full of explosive gas from the battery. All it needed was a spark..
 
#8 ·
Problem Description: 3rd Brake Light Bulb Failure
Problem Cause: Condensation / Dirty Bulb Socket
Solution: Clean socket/bulb connectors with wire/pipe brush or sandpaper

Dealer changed the bulb ($15ea) several times and then recommended replacing the socket at a cost of $100. Turns out the connectors were dirty/slightly corroded and weren't making proper contact with the bulb.

Time to do: 5-15 minutes
Tools needed: thin wire/pipe brush, pic or long nose pliers to adjust/bend bulb socket connectors
Level of difficutly (1-10): 0
 
#9 ·
C230Kto380SL - 10/23/2005 6:17 AM

Problem: Battery may explode (there was a recall issued for this)
Cause: Excessive gas emissions from battery
Solution: Owner to check electrolyte levels regularly.
Note: Mine blew up two weeks after the car was serviced by the dealer under the recall notice ('99 C230K).

Problem: Occasional very Hard downshift from 2nd to 1st at low speed (5mph or so)
Cause: Unkown ( dealer could not duplicate)
Solution: None. Live with it.
Did it blow your whole rear end and was it under insurance. If it does blow will a dealer fix the damage.
 
#176 ·
Please see attached file. Your MAF is located in right side when you are facing engine, attached to Air System. This is very common problem and You MUST replace MAF sensor with Genuine BOSCH Part instead of Aftermarket. I tried three aftermarket and learned very hard way. Now everything is working great.
It is very very simple to replace by removing one Harness and one screw for Air pipe.
 

Attachments

#12 ·
According to my MB Dealer. Another common problems among the W202 is the Damper Pulley which located near the crankshaft. These would the first thing that might break. I had mine changed two years ago after it broke a made a hole in the crankcase and my oil pan. The rubber which keeps the crankshaft in place came of and there was a screaming sound coming from the engine. Since the rubber seal was not there, the damper was leaning downwards. The fanbelt was scratching the engine blok.



Eddie
 
#13 ·
c230nola - 11/15/2005 1:18 AM

I have the exact same problem with my '99 C230K (hard downshift from 2nd to first). I read a post somewhere else that it could be a faulty transmission valve controller, but have been unable to this anywhere else.
I will corroborate this. I have had the same issue troubleshooted 2 times. First they replaced the TCU and then the valve, pretty much fixed the issue. So I will properly post this.

Problem: EXTREMELY hard downshift into 1st gear, crappy, sometimes delayed shifting of tranny when warming up, and just general rough shifting as well.

Description: Car will shift REALLY hard into 1st at times, delayed sort of tranny slipping shifts when warming up, and general rough shifting at times.

Solution: Either the Transmission Control Unit or a valve in the transmission. The TCU applies to the 722.6 transmission only and the valve applies to all years (my 95 confimred this).
 
#14 · (Edited)
Problem Description: Dash Removal, Vacuum Leak, and Center Vents not operating properly.
Problem Cause: Vacuum Leak from Billows behind Dashboard.
Solution: DIY replacement of Billows by vacuum testing and removal of dashboard.
With this post

Constant problem of center vents not blowing air out of them, and 3rd gear cold start not shifting.

Time to do: 2 hours or 1-2 days

Tools needed:
Torx 27 (For Removing Airbag)
1/8” Allen-key style hex socket (For Removing Steering Wheel)
-Preferably the Mercedes Benz dealer tool
-Also, some sort of breaker bar to loosen it.
Smallish sized Flat Head Screwdriver
Medium sized Flat Head Screwdriver
Medium sized Phillips Screwdriver
Preferably a 90 degree head screwdriver
Needle Nose Pliers
Magnet tool
Large and Small sized Socket Set.
-using mainly 8mm sockets.
Stereo removal keys
-Preferably the Mercedes Benz dealer tool,
-Can be substituted for whatever item you can fashion.
Vacuum Test Pump (if testing for vacuum leak)
-Can be found at AutoZone. Highly Highly recommended!!!

Level of difficulty (1-10): 7
 
#15 ·
crazykittycat said:
Our door locks used to work, but now only the front doors will lock with the key and everything will unlock with the key. any suggestions? Is there a fuse. Thanks for any help you can give.
All the door locks on most mercedes are controlled by vacuum. You have vacuum motor all over the car including gas cap door release, door locks, AC vent flaps.

You may have a faulty vacuum motor(s) or vacuum leak somewhere in the system. On most w202 the vacuum tank is behind the right front fender( this holds vacuum to opporate these systems when the engine is off, since the engine is the primary source of vaccum) . There is also a auxillary vaccum pump in the trunk behind the right side brake light. You can actually hear it “whirrrring” when you lock and unlock your doors.
 
#16 ·
Car will not start......

Description:

You drive to the store, and go in, come out and the car cranks, but will not start. You let the car sit for a while and the car starts up. Normally you will not get a CEL.....

Problem:

Could very well be the Crankshaft Position Sensor

If you go to the dealership to correct this, be prepared to fork out 3 hours of labor to include a one hour diagnostic fee. Plus about 120.00 for the part.

You can get the part from autohausaz for around 80.00 and do it yourself.

P/N 0261210170 (autohausaz.com) single notch
P/N 0261210141 (autohausaz.com) double notch

You'll have to pull your out to verify which one your car has...my 99 C43 had the single notch.

You can search this forum for the location and instructions to DIY...
 
#53 ·
I had the same problem

Description:

You drive to the store, and go in, come out and the car cranks, but will not start. You let the car sit for a while and the car starts up. Normally you will not get a CEL.....

Problem:

Could very well be the Crankshaft Position Sensor

If you go to the dealership to correct this, be prepared to fork out 3 hours of labor to include a one hour diagnostic fee. Plus about 120.00 for the part.

You can get the part from autohausaz for around 80.00 and do it yourself.

P/N 0261210170 (autohausaz.com) single notch
P/N 0261210141 (autohausaz.com) double notch

You'll have to pull your out to verify which one your car has...my 99 C43 had the single notch.

You can search this forum for the location and instructions to DIY...
I had the same problem with my 95 C200. First I suspected the CP Sensor but it turned out to be a defective ignition coil/module (I don't know that its called). These are 2 identical units with 2 slots on each which connect up with the 4 high tension spark plug cables at the other end. I was advised that there was no way of checking which module/coil is defective and was advised to replace both. Now the problem is solved. Problem occurred at 102,000 km.
 
#18 ·
Wife just turned over 75,000 miles on her '97 C280 and we just had it serviced at the dealer. Purchased new this car has been exceptional. Two problems that were out of the ordinary:

Problem Description - Faulty fuel level sensor in gas tank when new
Problem Cause - defective part
Solution (or link to thread with one) - replaced under warranty

Problem Description - MAF sensor went around 50,000 miles
Problem Cause - unknown
Solution (or link to thread with one) - replaced with new one - $$$
 
#19 ·
Curacao said:
According to my MB Dealer. Another common problems among the W202 is the Damper Pulley which located near the crankshaft. These would the first thing that might break. I had mine changed two years ago after it broke a made a hole in the crankcase and my oil pan. The rubber which keeps the crankshaft in place came of and there was a screaming sound coming from the engine. Since the rubber seal was not there, the damper was leaning downwards. The fanbelt was scratching the engine blok.



Eddie
+1

Mine exploded, causing of 2k damage to the car.
 
#20 ·
C200 Starting problem

Hi Guys
New to this excellent forum,sorry to be boring but I have a mint 63000 one owner 1999 C200 Esprit but developed a starting problem which started like this.

When I started the car I had no acceleration turn the car off and try again and it was ok but when driving it would start missing sometimes.

It then developed into when I tried to start the car I just had a loud clicking sound.

Next thing was nothing except the main fan in the engine compartment would spin very fast.

I then took the car to an independant Merc repairer and He could not even get into the ECU with his diagnostics.

End of story (MAIN STEALERS) had to have a new ECU fitted £1700.00 in the end.

The car is working fine now fingers crossed but thought this may be of some use on the forum.

Cheers guys

Norman :thumbsup:
 
#342 ·
C200 Starting problem

Hi Guys
New to this excellent forum,sorry to be boring but I have a mint 63000 one owner 1999 C200 Esprit but developed a starting problem which started like this.

When I started the car I had no acceleration turn the car off and try again and it was ok but when driving it would start missing sometimes.

It then developed into when I tried to start the car I just had a loud clicking sound.

Next thing was nothing except the main fan in the engine compartment would spin very fast.

I then took the car to an independant Merc repairer and He could not even get into the ECU with his diagnostics.

End of story (MAIN STEALERS) had to have a new ECU fitted £1700.00 in the end.

The car is working fine now fingers crossed but thought this may be of some use on the forum.

Cheers guys

Norman 👍
I had same problem Changed the MAF and wallah runs like a trooper
 
#21 · (Edited)
95 C280

Problem:
Car would start and run just fine, until I would slow down to almost a complete stop then accelerate hard (like when making a right hand turn onto a busy street), then it would stutter, and sometimes even backfire, engine would then run very rough under load and at idle. Turn off engine and restart and problem was corrected.

Problem Cause:
Faulty Ignition Coils.

Solution/Description:
Check Engine light did NOT come on with this problem. MB Shop was not able to find problem. Dealership was not able to recreate or find the problem. Finally after 3 months and several trips to the shop, the car would no longer start. It would crank and crank but get no spark. At that point, the dealership FINALLY detected that 2 of my coils were shot.

The c280 has the inline 6 so there are 3 ignition coils, I replaced all 3 for a cost of around $800. Car works perfectly.
 
#22 ·
BrianDHuff said:
95 C280

Problem:
Car would start and run just fine, until I would slow down to almost a complete stop then accelerate hard (like when making a right hand turn onto a busy street), then it would stutter, and sometimes even backfire, engine would then run very rough under load and at idle. Turn off engine and restart and problem was corrected.

Problem Cause:
Faulty Ignition Coils.

Solution/Description:
Check Engine light did NOT come on with this problem. MB Shop was not able to find problem. Dealership was not able to recreate or find the problem. Finally after 3 months and several trips to the shop, the car would no longer start. It would crank and crank but get no spark. At that point, the dealership FINALLY detected that 2 of my coils were shot.

The c280 has the inline 6 so there are 3 ignition coils, I replaced all 3 for a cost of around $800. Car works perfectly.

Had exact same problem. Replaced one bad ignition coil, rubber ends on all three ignition coils, and all three spark plug wires. Car runs better than ever!
Ignition Coil: $86.00 (wholesale from dealer)
Rubber Coil Ends & spark plug wire set: $55.00 (Bosch from Autohausaz.com)

Thanks for the solution!
 
#45 ·
Extremely rough idle




Hey Mercedesmonk, I was wondering if you could tell me how hard is it to change the coils outside of a shop. I had one coil and all plugs and wires replaced along with an O2 sensor and my 94 C280 is running so rough at idle in gear now it almost dies, I have to put it in neutral to minimize this and I suspect it may be the other two coils gone bad. Hopefully it isn't the MAF sensor too!

Any info or resources you can provide would be greatly appreciated!!

--GP--
 
#23 · (Edited)
Wow after reading this forum I must say I feel very pleased and lucky with my 1995 C220 Esprit (called SE in Canada) - considering I picked the car up from local public auction at very little money.

it's got 213xxxkm on the clock and it's ticking strong. the only issue with it is that the cruise control is termpermental (works like 10% of the time) and high beam flasher only works when the stalk is pushed forward (i.e. no passing flashes, but regular high beam is ok)

From the way things look I think I got myself into a very deep money pit..... Currently it's at Mercedes getting its SRS light reset (I snapped the coil connector behind the steering wheel by mistake and replaced it with a new part, SRS light is on ever since) they might charge me a lot of money to repair it - oh me so doomed.

anyway paranoia aside here is my finding:

Problem: Car randomly stalls when stopped at the light. with one or more of the following:

- engine check light does not light up when in "test" phase - key in position II ignition off
- ABS light on
- speedometer points at 0 and odometer does not advance
- idle speed randomly drops below 500rpm but if you are alert and you put your right foot down the idle will come back up

Problem cause: faulty OVP causing ECU to be unable to read in MAF sensor readings

Fix: replace with a later model German made OVP. Austrian units are known to fail.

Problem: rough shifts (up and down shifts) in all gears
Problem cause: transmission vaccuum module might be faulty. In my case the PVC straw (<- yes straw) that M-B put in the car simply disconnected from the vaccuum module

solution: check for leaks in the vac system (in my case shove the straw back into the vaccuum tube at the transmission) or a new modulator is required.
 
#24 ·
I had the same problem with intermittent seats. I replaced the relay in the trunk and it fixed the problem.

Make sure the vehicle is off and no keys in the ignition, and you can carefully pry the plug off the relay. Just be careful not to break it. Replace it at your dealer, about $30.

Should fix it.
 
#25 ·
guls said:
I read here that it is the relay in the trunk under the plastic cover, I tried to take it out and it is very hard. Does anyone know how to pull it out. And how much for the new one.
The part number is: 0015420219 (this also can be used to replace older part 0015424419)
And it's just a generic relay used for many different functions on the car. Costs about $29 at the stealership or $14 at www.autohausaz.com
 
#26 ·
'95 C280, 123,000 mi. Head gasket oil leak, oil pan gasket leak, needs new engine wiring harness. Original head replaced in warranty @ 36,000 miles. Never missed a service. Car serviced @dealershio every 7500 miles. Now at independant due to $4300.00 dealer quote to fix. Am getting firm quote from independant tomorrow I hope. Ballparked $2000.00 over phone.
 
#245 ·
upgrade



I think that when you consider all the complexities and costs of modifying or changing the engine, you will find that it will be less expensive and more troublefree to carefully buy one with the engine you want, fix up what ever is needed, and then sell yours, Every thing MB makes is faster than a c180 except a 87 200D (small diesel in mid chassis) that I had which couldn't restart on a country hill but good for 40 mpg.
 
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