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W202 Common Problems and Their Solutions

817K views 365 replies 205 participants last post by  cadman777 
#1 ·
In an effort to improve the W202 forum, we're starting a "common problems and their solutions" thread for W202's. Before posting a new thread in the forum with your question, please check here for a solution as well as doing a search. For readability, please post in this forum in the following format:

Problem Description
Problem Cause
Solution (or link to thread with one)
 
#63 ·
Hi there, I am new here and have not make any post, I hope I am in the right post.
I have a C220 1994, the problem I face is when I start, sometime it is very rough sound like running on 2 or 3 cylinder... but when I restart it will correct itself and run without any problem. I read somewhere here in the post that it could be the cause of the ignition coil. can someone correct me if this is the problems, coz the coil will cost me $190NZ dollar here in New Zealand, and help would be great. Thanks
 
#65 ·
Hi

(W202 - C180 - Year 2000 model)

When driving for a while at ± 120 km/h, the oil light comes on. When pressing clutch and revs drop to under 1000, oil light goes off again. After a while, it will do it again.
Checked oil level. It is 100%.
What can the problem be?????

Thanks
Peter
 
#66 ·
ive had my car for almost 2 years now and here are some problems that ive come across.

problem 1
when going in reverse like to back out of a parking space, there would be a loud clunk when i would apply my brakes after backing out.
this was caused by time. over time the control arm bushings would become loose.
i had the control arm bushings replaced (not cheap - many labor hours) and the problem was solved. the ride quality of the car also improved :)

problem 2
as some others have stated, i have had sticky speedometer and tachometer gagues.
all of the sticky gagues were caused by a breakdown of the black paint on the needles which becomes sticky.
the solution is to clean off the sticky residue from the needles.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1326591-w202-cluster-fix-read.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1350908-replacing-dash-bulbs-c280.html (this one gives better details on removing the instrument cluster)

problem 3
i had an intermitten turn signal issue, and in the rain when using my wipers i noticed that in the first postion of the wipers, it would work intermittently. then one morning i noticed my rear window defroster wasnt working.
these 3 issues were all caused by the same relay. it was a multifuction relay which controlled all of these functions.
i purchased a new one from autohauz and replaced it. it is located right above the fuse box with a bunch of other relays in the top right of engine compartment.

problem 4
i had a check engine light come on, and was told is was from one of two components, the transmission wasnt holding vacuum and it was either the upshift delay switchover valve or the kickdown solenoid.
i replaced the upshift delay switchover valve and the check engine light came back on, then replaced the solenoid. which solved the problem, however ever since all of this my transmission has not been shifting correctly. i have been trying to adjust my transmission to get it perfect, and have gotten it alot better, but some of the shifts are still a little too firm.

hope this information helps someone out!
 
This post has been deleted
#68 ·
Rear Springs

Problem: Car making clanking noises when driving over bumps, or dips in the road.

Cause: Broken rear springs (I'm guessing it's a common problem, since 3 people I know with the same car have had the same problem and needed to have them replaced)

Solution: Two new rear springs (About $250 from the dealership)

Ride quality also improved.
 
#71 ·
Hi there,

First time poster so please bear with me.

Model: 1998 W202 C200 Elegance Manual (Facelift Model)

I have a few issues after I serviced the car at an independent service station.

1. Temperature goes up to the 90’s when driving in peak hour traffic. (Never did this before)
2. In peak hour traffic the car will start to “idle seek”. Best way to describe this is that it will drop to 500rpm and then rise to 1500rpm continuously and will then start stalling. I suspect that this has to do with the L-Shaped connector that comes from next to the radiator and plugs into the air intake hole on the bottom left hand side which mysteriously disappeared. (Will try to upload a pick and part number.) Or either it’s the Air Mass Sensor? :(
3. Fuel gauge will drop to 0 even if the car is full. (usually corrects itself after a few minutes)
4. Outside temperature display is extremely dim although the rest displays ok.
5. Doing a hard right hand turn at low speed causes a harsh clanking noise especially on a slight decline.
6. On long drives the Temperature Gauge will suddenly drop to zero, although I think the fan might be stuck.

Any theories will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Eben
 
#72 ·
temperatrue in the 90's isnt uncommon, maybe you just never notice it before... as long as it doesnt go above 100 you are fine. The outside temperature display being dim is most likely because the bulb is burn out behind it and needs to be replaced. as for the gauages going to zero, it sounds like some sort of electrical fault. if you do replace the light bulb yourself, when you remove the instrument cluster you can check for any bad connections on those meters and make sure the physical integrity of the wires are good. until the electrical fault is no longer intermittent, it will be hard to trouble shoot it. as for the idle seek, im not sure what part you say you might be missing. pictures would help. And for the harsh clanking, where exactly is it comming from? i would recomment checking to make sure nothing in the suspension is broken. hope this reply helped.
 
#73 ·
I have some problems of my own and kind of confused.

1. My a/c blows air normally and also the heater works fine, but when i try to make the air cooler, it doesnt go cold. When all the way low it just feels like its blowing outside air.

Does anyone know an estimated price for best buy, or some place to install a radio that is already bought.
 
#75 ·
I encountered the same thing this weekend while driving from LA to San Francisco... the A/C suddenly stopped blowing cold air. This was strange because normally, the A/C turns my car into an igloo (appropriate color, too) even on the lowest setting.

I took it to an independent mechanic in San Jose and he said the problem could be freons, but I'll be finding out the problem tomorrow.
 
#76 ·
Problem Description: No A/C.
Problem Cause:NOT SURE
Solution (or link to thread with one):N/A

SO I HAVE A 1996 C280 WITH ABOUT 165K MILES.MY A/C DOESNT WORK.IT JUST STOPPED WORKING ONE DAY.THE BUTTON EC IS LIT AND I CANT TURN IT OFF FOR THE A/C TO BLOW COLD AIR WHENEVER I PRESS THE EC BUTTON.ONLY THE AIR FROM OUTSIDE BLOWS AND I BELIEVE THE HEATER STILL WORKS TOO.I RECHARGED IT TO SEE IF THAT WAS THE PROBLEM AND ALSO IT NEED TO BE BUT IT STILL DOESNT WORK.

WHAT CAN THE PROBLEM BE?
THE COMPRESSOR?
SOMETHING ELSE?
 
#77 ·
by your description it sounds like your economy mode is stuck on, and thats why you arent getting any cold air. you a/c may or may not be working. you said it wont go off when you hit the ec button, so try hitting auto, and setting the a/c to low. hitting the auto should turn off ec light. if it doesnt, it sounds like that is your problem.
 
#83 · (Edited)
acceleration skid control, ASR is traction control,, a electronic unit that help regain control of a car if the wheels are spinning to reduce power to the wheels so you dont lose control , if turned off smokeshows are possible HAHA:eek::), if ur ASR light is on, turn car on turn steering wheel left all the way hold for 3 seconds, turn right all the way hold for 3 seconds, and it should shut off if not then u have a bigger problem , good luck
 
#85 ·
engine multiple misfires

check the vacuum hose going from intake to the timing advance sensor on back of water pump it could be split. i took it to a mercedes mechanic i was told it was a bad ignition coil, prior to finding the busted hose. i replaced the hose and it runs like new.
 
#86 · (Edited)
Problem with Cooling System

Hi there, i happen to own a C230 Non Kompressor 1998 MB..

Problem Description: Engine seems to work too hot and fan is too slow..two weeks ago, radiator blew off with consequent mass and engine coolant lose.

The dashboard indicator (for recovery tank) lights on time to time while driving.

Water pump was replaced, radiator replaced, recovery tank also replaced and the cap as well, thermostat replaced, fan also replaced, both temperature sensors replaced (one at the head of engine and other under the recovery tank) but failure still there..

It seems as the light goes on the fan does not start or starts too slow..

Just another couple of items not replaced yet one is like a couple of bulbs connected to heating system, and a small pump under recovery tank.

Problem Cause: Not shure yet
Solution: Please help to find one

Best

MiCk :bowdown:
 
#87 ·
Here is another common problem told by our local MB Techs.

On the W202 and other models with time the coolant hose located between the filling tank - the engine block and the radiator might crack and split in two causing a massive drain of coolant.

In this case of fluid bursting out in the engine compartment will cause engine problems such as spark plug - coils - trottle body making the car difficult to accelerate and it feels and little shaky when idling.

Eddie
 
#88 ·
Not a hose problem

It seems like a problem related to a circuit, or pump that makes the fan go faster or slow according to the car´s temperature..

I´ve noticed the fan goes really hard and fast from time to time, just like if it had started late and in a rush to bring down temperature..

Both temperature sensors where replaced, but it seems like something is failing to start the fan at the right speed with the right temperature..

any thoughts?..

Best

MiCk
 
#89 ·
IFZ 210 820 32 26

I runned Star Diagnosis on my C 200 Kompressor and these are what I had in the fault memory.

1. B1701 Incorrect enable code from engine control module

2. B1703 Invalid transponder

Also the red and the green light on the driver's mirrow inside blinks constantly
and prevents the engine from cranking.

Can I get a solution to this problem.

Thank you
 
#90 · (Edited)
I runned Star Diagnosis on my C 200 Kompressor and these are what I had in the fault memory.

1. B1701 Incorrect enable code from engine control module

2. B1703 Invalid transponder

Also the red and the green light on the driver's mirrow inside blinks constantly
and prevents the engine from cranking.

Can I get a solution to this problem.

Thank you
Either the batteries are below the limit or you need to synchronise your keys, see the owner manual if have one.

If you got MBSS 3 you need to clean the barrel or the lens of the key. You can check whether the key is sending message by taking a pix of it with a digital camera.
 
#91 ·
Problem With Cooling System FIXED!!

Found the problem..

I read on another forum this problem is caused by a module, which is located inside the left fender and it is an auxiliary module for fan and cooling system.

Dirty job, but necesary, i removed the module and noticed a tiny metal cooler was lose and causing the module to produce short circuit, telling why the coolant level indicator on dash was turning on.

Cleaned it, placed the metal piece correctly, and reasembled and ready to go..

Thank you all...

Hope this works for some one else..

Best:surrender::bowdown:
 
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