Hello, its been a while since I’ve been to this site but each time I’ve learned something and saved me hundreds of dollars, I hope to do that again….
Is this a common problem?
currently my 1999 mercedes c230 kompressor runs as if I have trash in my gas line. It starts up fine and slowly accelerates.....it may or may not drive above 40 mph on occasion it may run up to 60 mph to later have hesitation and slow down to under 20 mph and possibly start smoking underneath the car around the catalytic converter which will get bright red and smoke, I cut the car off let it cool and start it up and the problem starts all over again.
I've already replaced the fuel filter my mechanic says its the catalytic converter the codes states its the fuel trim, any ideas?
He says I’d have to take it t the dealer to have that fixed, but before I go I’d like to get some ideas on how to better pinpoint this problem.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
The catalytic converter does not smell like rotten eggs and it does not rattle….
I found the following on how to check a catalytic converter, has anyone verified this?
For some exceleration problems, check your Catalytic converter first, I know it's not a normal thing to go bad, which is why it's the last thing people check. The simple test for all catalytic converters is . Take either a long baking thermometer ( a high temp one ), or an automotive thermometer ( on a few higher end multi meters ) Run the car to operating temp, take thermometer place on exhaust pipe before the Cat, and after the Cat. If it's hotter BEFORE the cat, it's bad, since the back up of exhaust gasses make it hotter. If it's hotter AFTER the Cat, it's working fine sice the Catalyst is burning up excess fuel making it hotter AFTER the cat.
Just an FYI to everyone before they get into more expensive electronic repairs...
My first Mercedes (and very first car! ) is a '94 C220. It's been in my family for years and has been kept up pretty well, especially since my dad and grandma recently had it restored. The only problems I've noticed are:
1. Problem: Sporadic Cruise Control Failure
Problem Cause: A really corroded fuse inserted upside down; looks to be about as old as the car itself.
Problem Solution: Change the fuse! If it ever acts up again, I just take the fuse out and clean with my shirt or a rag and reinsert it.
2. Problem: Some Gasoline Pumps do not Pump
Problem Cause: I have no idea. Anyone else know/have this problem? It's almost as if the nozzle can't recognize the level of gas so it just repeatedly shuts off as if my tank was full.
Problem Solution: Drive to a different pump at the station. However, I've had ENTIRE gas stations refuse to pump gas into my tank. Then I'll just drive to the next one down the road.
Other than that, I really enjoy my C220. Oh, and, nice forum y'all have here!
Starter cable problem + No response from Key Fobs.
Car is 1996 C230 Kompressor.
Hi - just joined the forum yesterday and ended up with a few problems today. Hopefully someone can help me.
Some problems / solutions so far:
1) Fault :ABS Light On & Speedo not working.
Solution: Over voltage protection relay replaced.
2) Fault: Wiper balde would come on by itself.
Solution - small screw driver to pop the end of the stalk off and cleaned up the connections (Take care of small metallic conector pieces).
Two problems ocurred today with my car - not sure if they are related, but hopefully someone can help me:
1)Car would not start at all - click from starter moter, car started by a push and 'bump' starting it in 2nd gear. Got home, checked out starter motor and found a thick copper cable from the starter motor going to a nut had broke away. Wedged the cable back in place - car started first try after this.
Locked car up, went back about 20 mins later and started undoing the large nut the cable should be connected to. After a few turns decided to apply WD40 and leave overnight.
Went to open car to put tools inside boot. Key fob not opening doors - nothing. Tried spare fob - nothing, tried opening door with manual lock - opened, set alarm off , everything else dead - no interior lights, no exterior lights, tried ignition - dead.
Check for red flashing light on both remotes -OK present, replaced batteries in one of them - still nothing. Tried opening boot to disconnect battery - lock siezed - sprayed WD40 in lock.
It is like I am using the key-fob from another car, absolutely no response from the car at all. I wonder if the large nut underneath that I started un-doing was connected through the underside of the car to something else to do with the remote alram on the other side ??
Please help - this has me stumped. I've searched the forun and can't find the answers I need.
Crankshaft position sensor failed...leaves you dead on the road and now the front left spring perch failed, ripped free from the frame. MB of America no help. This will be our first and LAST Mercedes product!
The problem is that it is really very intermittent, in my case maybe once a month, but always under the same conditions - driving at low speed through my condo parking structure. The car would just make 2nd gear before I had to ease off the gas.
That would lead me to question the source being a faulty part.
I know it sounds like a petty issue, but when this happens, the rear wheels lock up momentarily, sending you lurching forwards.
BTW, to amplify my earlier post re the battery, you can tell whether your car was a part of the recall by the big stickers placed over the original battery maintenance info in your owner's manual.
To be fair, in my case the battery explosion was triggered by me opening my cell-phone as I reached into the trunk to get my things. Nonetheless, my trunk was obviously and abnormally full of explosive gas from the battery. All it needed was a spark..
Chech throttle position percentages. Trans may think throttle is in different position than it actually is. Like an old modulator cable stuck kinda thing. Worth a look anyhow. Let us know.
If you have a W202 or a c230 where your A/C blows warm air out the center vents here is your solution. I live in Phoenix and air conditioning is a necessity!!! I finally had to get it fixed and here is what was wrong with my 1997 c230 mercedes with no ac from center vents: (Hepa interior air cleaner under dash Clogged)
Your car has a hepa type interior air cleaner in an easy to find plastic box just under the dash on the passenger side.
Look under neath your dash on the passenger side and you will find the filter cover (note the sliding plastic locks) that keep the filter in place. Un latch these hooks and pull the filter out. It is probably so full of dust and dirt like mine was. The filter was so filthy it was not allowing any cold air past. Once I hit the filter on the ground about 5 times the filter seemed cleaned. I stuck it back in the cartidge and the air conditioning has been blowing ice cold air condioning from the air vents. If you have this problem this will fix your car.
Thanks. Bryan
I have a '97 C280, and on max AC/fan/heat setting, I could barely feel any air moving out of all of my vents. I live in the middle of the Mojave Desert in Southern California, and it's just been miserable to drive during the daytime when the temperatures reach 120 in the heat of the afternoon.
I thought I was going to have to pull the dash apart.... there was so much noise coming from the blower that it sounded to me like one of the air gates inside the system was either partially stuck or completely closed. It was obvious that the blower was working just fine from the sound.... there was just a problem with air moving.
I didn't know about the HEPA filter under the passenger dash. There is a plastic shield covering the blower and HEPA filter assemblies, which is removed by three philips head screws. Once you remove that shield, you'll see a rectangular black box, with two white plastic sliding clips, and a square black box, with two small white sliding clips on the front edge. The rectangular box is the HEPA filter cover. The square box contains the blower.
Once I pulled out the HEPA filter after sliding off the white plastic clips (slide them outboard), I discovered that it was completely clogged with dust, hair, sand, and various debris. I even found a Valet parking stub in there from 1999. I cleaned it out by first banging it on the ground to get the large debris out, and then using my vacuum cleaner with the thin nozzle attachment to suck out the rest of the crap from the crevices in the filter.
It blows like a champ now.
I probably would have spent a bundle of money if I hadn't come here. Thanks for the enormous amount of helpful information!
My previous fault - car dead, no electrics, key fob not working after undoing the cable underneath that runs to the starter.
Solution: Through the bottom of the car (passengers foot well) this cable connects to another cable that supplies all the +12v to alarm + many other functions. With me unscrewing the cable underneath I had also loosened the nut inside that holds the +12v cable in place. Easy solution once I found what was going on, but was worried for a few hours.
Solution: Replace the antenna mast with another.( I bought one from ebay for about $20 with shipping.) Hopefully the replacement mast comes with instructions. It takes at most 20 minutes. If replacing the mast doesn't help then the mast motor is dead or broken. You then need to take out the carpet from the left side of the trunk to get to the antenna mast motor.Then you need to take out the nut from where the antenna is at.
It a bit of a pain in the arse and in your wallet to get it out and put a new one in. The mast motor can cost you $150-$250 USD for a new one. I found a good used one for $80 from ebay. Hopefully this post would of helped someone.
Last edited by Pringles21 : 08-10-2009 at 06:15 PM.
According to my MB Dealer. Another common problems among the W202 is the Damper Pulley which located near the crankshaft. These would the first thing that might break. I had mine changed two years ago after it broke a made a hole in the crankcase and my oil pan. The rubber which keeps the crankshaft in place came of and there was a screaming sound coming from the engine. Since the rubber seal was not there, the damper was leaning downwards. The fanbelt was scratching the engine blok.
Eddie
does this screaming noise only happen in high reves whilst acclerating?? my w202 250 sport td 2000 is and i can't figure whats going on ..its not the turbo or the waste gate ... i think ,,, thanks
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Only a few problems here... 
) is a '94 C220. It's been in my family for years and has been kept up pretty well, especially since my dad and grandma recently had it restored. The only problems I've noticed are:
I have no idea. Anyone else know/have this problem? It's almost as if the nozzle can't recognize the level of gas so it just repeatedly shuts off as if my tank was full.
Very limited air blow from vents 
Linear Mode
