W202 Common Problems and Their Solutions - Page 18 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #171 of 308 (permalink) Old 07-18-2011, 11:33 PM
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Description: I drive a 98 C230. At high temperatures, (90F and up), noises from my front tires croak and groan over every little bump and hill and it sounds like something is going to break at anytime. The ride also feels a bit stiffer during these occasions.

Problem Cause: Definitely has something to do with higher temperatures; anything under 90F I have no problems with the noise.

Solution: WD-40. Or silicon lube.
Note: This only helps my problem temporarily. If anybody knows how to permanently rid me of this problem, I would be most grateful.
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post #172 of 308 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 01:52 PM
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Problem filling gas tank

Problem: When filling the gas tank, the pump will shut off as if the tank is full even though it is clearly not.

Solution: Positioning the gas pump nozzle almost upside down and slightly to the left.

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post #173 of 308 (permalink) Old 08-02-2011, 03:34 PM
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Been a while since I had my 96 but if it has a V belt and not a Serp' then it wouldn't have one. Once you loosen the Alt' it slides over the pulley and off.


I did a quick Google and ran across this (so it is a serp)


I think if you invest a few minutes more you'll find more helpful info

Past Euros: 91 MBZ 300TE, 91 Jaguar XJS V12 Coupe, 94 Alfa Romeo 164 LS, 80 BMW 320i, 85 BMW 528e, 86 BMW 325e, 88 BMW 325e, 88 BMW 325i Cab, 89 BMW 325ix, 91 325i Cabrio, 93 BMW 740i, 94 BMW 740iL, 95 BMW 525i, 78 Fiat Spyder 124, 98 Land Rover D1 LSE, 93 MBZ 190E 2.6, 96 MBZ C280 Sport, 93 MBZ 400E, 90 MBZ 300ce, 92 MBZ 500SL, 71 MGB-GT, 91 VW Corrado G60

Last edited by Bimmerman4ever; 08-02-2011 at 03:38 PM.
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post #174 of 308 (permalink) Old 10-28-2011, 12:17 AM
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Don't think this has came up yet in this thread.

Problem: light bulb/s inside cluster is gone or just need to pull out cluster

What to do: if you want to do this method which requires removing of steeringwheel, read this: 202Tech - Steering Wheel Removal

If you want to leave the steeringwheel alone and just getting that cluster out, do this:

Push the clip (marked with a circle) that belongs to the speakergrill (marked with the triangle) from the airvent top left and remove that speakergrill. Make sure you pull the speaker out and place it under the windshield (it has a long powercable)

Remove the two screws on top of the airvent.

Then shove a thin tool, like a flat screwdriver, under the airvent (marked with two circles) and lurk the vent out.

Then place your hand inside the airvent-hole (marked with a right-arrow) and push the cluster towards you. It's surprisingly easy, it doesn't stick at all. Use you rsteeringwheel to help it out and left/right.

Then remove the two cables. See the borrowed pic to locate your lightbulb that needs changed.

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post #175 of 308 (permalink) Old 11-09-2011, 11:13 AM
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Solution to coolant light on/rough running/fan not working 1999 Mercedes C200 W202

Hi all - I recently encountered the above problem on my W202 and thought I would post the fix up here.

Symptoms. Coolant level warning light on, rough running, particularly when hot. Overheating. Checked coolant level okay. Checked engine fan (12v electric, not viscous): not operational at any temperature. Water temperature gauge read 80 degrees c even when overheating (water temperature was clearly higher than the indicated 80 deg c.)

All fan/cooling system fuses were checked and found to be okay.

Removing the connection to the water temperature sensor did not make the fan operate: neither did shorting the two temperature sensor contacts on the wiring harness.

Removing the connection to the fan control module made the coolant level warning light go out, but the fan remained inoperative.

The fan control module is in the nearside (UK) wheelarch behind the inner wheelarch lining. The wheelarch liner can be moved by undoing 3 small coachscrews - the fan control module is mounted to the chassis behind this and is secured onto two studded capscrews/mounting posts with nuts. The module was very dirty and was prised away from the chassis.

A replacement Fan Control Module was purchased via online auction for 30 pounds

Whilst the module was off, I pulled the wiring harness including connection up from the wheelarch and then mounted the Fan Control module in the engine bay to prevent any further debris/water ingress. There is sufficient space behind the nearside headlight.

Fitment of the module resulted in : Fan operating correctly, coolant level warning light off, healthy running. And a few beers to celebrate!!

I hope this will help others who may encounter a similar problem!

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post #176 of 308 (permalink) Old 11-14-2011, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by whitec230k View Post
Where is the MAF exactly located in my engine?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Please see attached file. Your MAF is located in right side when you are facing engine, attached to Air System. This is very common problem and You MUST replace MAF sensor with Genuine BOSCH Part instead of Aftermarket. I tried three aftermarket and learned very hard way. Now everything is working great.
It is very very simple to replace by removing one Harness and one screw for Air pipe.
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post #177 of 308 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by abuimad View Post
lots of transmission faults, faulty kompressors, and windshield wipers cost a lot to replace...other than than its a beuty...a guy on club202.com has 560,000 on his odometer

[edited by n0alpha]
...this is an example of how NOT to post in this thread. [8D]
Do you have 560,0000 Km or Miles ?. Seems like you have highest miles I have ever seen if it is miles not the KM.
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post #178 of 308 (permalink) Old 12-12-2011, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by davis449 View Post
I will corroborate this. I have had the same issue troubleshooted 2 times. First they replaced the TCU and then the valve, pretty much fixed the issue. So I will properly post this.

Problem: EXTREMELY hard downshift into 1st gear, crappy, sometimes delayed shifting of tranny when warming up, and just general rough shifting as well.

Description: Car will shift REALLY hard into 1st at times, delayed sort of tranny slipping shifts when warming up, and general rough shifting at times.

Solution: Either the Transmission Control Unit or a valve in the transmission. The TCU applies to the 722.6 transmission only and the valve applies to all years (my 95 confimred this).
I seem to have same problem with transmission shifting. Anyone happen to know how to fix/replace Transmission Valve as mentioned ?. Where is it located ?. Any pics for this valve ?
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post #179 of 308 (permalink) Old 12-25-2011, 11:44 AM
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Exclamation A/C issues

Well, I read pages 1 - 13 of this topic, so I don't know if this has come up in pages 14 - 17 but here goes!

Description of problem: A/C (or more correctly, fans for the A/C) do not blow well, or at all when the outside temperature reaches above 24C. Occasional full-power operation at above 24C does occur, usually for less than 5 minutes. Compressor can be heard to be working as expected.

Problem cause: A/C blower motor regulator.

Solution: A/C Blower motor regulator replaced. Blower fans were found to be severely weakened due to regulator issues, also replaced. A/C has never worked better.

I got my parts "after-market;" (read: genuine parts, just before MB gets their dirty little price-increasing hands on them) regulator cost me A$310, blower motor A$425. A$88 labour for a total of A$823.

For interests sake, MB quoted me A$2700 for the same work. Bunch of thieving stealers :P

Buy My Car! (Brisbane, Australia)

"Of the demonstrably wise there are but two: those who commit suicide, and those who keep their reasoning faculties atrophied with drink." -- Mark Twain.

Well there you have it boys and girls, even Mark Twain said it; Either kill yourself or maintain a constant state of stupefaction by means of alcohol
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post #180 of 308 (permalink) Old 03-12-2012, 02:57 PM
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Please Help

my 96 c280 has been running hot.

Yesterday when I started it there was a backfire under the hood with smoke. It'll start, idle rough for a few seconds then shut off unless I keep the engine revved up. I drove it to a shop (where they're rapping my college budget) and when I accelerated at a certain point it seemed fine; once I stopped it began to idle hard and die.

The shop has said no to some things, but they dont know. PLEASE help


Thanks - Travis
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