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Old 07-18-2008, 10:38 PM   #101 (permalink)
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Date registered: May 2006
Vehicle: 97'C280
Location: Texas
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trunk button light stays on even after I close the trunk. but after I push down on the trunk, the light goes out. sounds like a sensor somewhere, anybody got a clue where and how to fix it?
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Old 07-19-2008, 04:58 PM   #102 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jul 2008
Vehicle: 2000 c230 kompressor
Location: hamilton ontario
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i had the same problem, your lock on the trunk lid is loose, i had a a sub box in the trunk and it rattled the screws on the lock and it was loose so the trunk open light was constantly on unless i pushed down on the trunk, hope that helps, good luck
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Last edited by 00_230_K : 07-19-2008 at 04:59 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 07-19-2008, 07:02 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2008
Vehicle: white 97 c230
Location: NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickyeby View Post
how to remove steering wheel for replacing panel lights bulb?
link was posted on page before

here it is http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202...ulbs-c280.html
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Old 08-04-2008, 06:25 PM   #104 (permalink)
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Date registered: Nov 2007
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Hi there, I am new here and have not make any post, I hope I am in the right post.
I have a C220 1994, the problem I face is when I start, sometime it is very rough sound like running on 2 or 3 cylinder... but when I restart it will correct itself and run without any problem. I read somewhere here in the post that it could be the cause of the ignition coil. can someone correct me if this is the problems, coz the coil will cost me $190NZ dollar here in New Zealand, and help would be great. Thanks
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Old 08-05-2008, 11:36 AM   #105 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2005
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Unhappy intermittant stalling

hi, my 96 c280 seems to stall intermittantly, it idles at around 500-700 in drive, however sometimes it just dies for no reason. it starts back up again, but its a ballache as its an auto. any ideas pleeeese????


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Old 08-11-2008, 02:02 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2008
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Hi

(W202 - C180 - Year 2000 model)

When driving for a while at ± 120 km/h, the oil light comes on. When pressing clutch and revs drop to under 1000, oil light goes off again. After a while, it will do it again.
Checked oil level. It is 100%.
What can the problem be?????

Thanks
Peter
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Old 08-17-2008, 06:50 PM   #107 (permalink)
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Date registered: May 2008
Vehicle: 95 C220 (daily driver) 99 CLK430 (garage queen) 04 volvo s60 (missis)
Location: Georgia, USA
Posts: 111
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ive had my car for almost 2 years now and here are some problems that ive come across.

problem 1
when going in reverse like to back out of a parking space, there would be a loud clunk when i would apply my brakes after backing out.
this was caused by time. over time the control arm bushings would become loose.
i had the control arm bushings replaced (not cheap - many labor hours) and the problem was solved. the ride quality of the car also improved

problem 2
as some others have stated, i have had sticky speedometer and tachometer gagues.
all of the sticky gagues were caused by a breakdown of the black paint on the needles which becomes sticky.
the solution is to clean off the sticky residue from the needles.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202...-fix-read.html
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202...ulbs-c280.html (this one gives better details on removing the instrument cluster)

problem 3
i had an intermitten turn signal issue, and in the rain when using my wipers i noticed that in the first postion of the wipers, it would work intermittently. then one morning i noticed my rear window defroster wasnt working.
these 3 issues were all caused by the same relay. it was a multifuction relay which controlled all of these functions.
i purchased a new one from autohauz and replaced it. it is located right above the fuse box with a bunch of other relays in the top right of engine compartment.

problem 4
i had a check engine light come on, and was told is was from one of two components, the transmission wasnt holding vacuum and it was either the upshift delay switchover valve or the kickdown solenoid.
i replaced the upshift delay switchover valve and the check engine light came back on, then replaced the solenoid. which solved the problem, however ever since all of this my transmission has not been shifting correctly. i have been trying to adjust my transmission to get it perfect, and have gotten it alot better, but some of the shifts are still a little too firm.

hope this information helps someone out!
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Old 08-18-2008, 01:42 PM   #108 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2008
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coil bad?

Can someone tell me the classic signs of bad coils? for a 95 c280 .. thanks

Last edited by lt201 : 08-18-2008 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 08-21-2008, 08:25 PM   #109 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2007
Vehicle: 1998 Mercedes-Benz C230
Location: Toronto, Canada.
Posts: 40
Rear Springs

Problem: Car making clanking noises when driving over bumps, or dips in the road.

Cause: Broken rear springs (I'm guessing it's a common problem, since 3 people I know with the same car have had the same problem and needed to have them replaced)

Solution: Two new rear springs (About $250 from the dealership)

Ride quality also improved.
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Old 08-22-2008, 07:07 PM   #110 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benz rider View Post
trunk button light stays on even after I close the trunk. but after I push down on the trunk, the light goes out. sounds like a sensor somewhere, anybody got a clue where and how to fix it?
there is a little narrow white button right under the trunk release.. that button is not getting pushed down all the way or it is loose.. it could be the black plastic around the bottom lip of the trunk that isnt pushing it down.
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