Actually that is one I found though I think it was like $ 23.00. Also on Ebay for $ 35 ish.
No Banjo but it states it comes with various ( they don't say actual sizes ) adapters including metric and you will notice there are a couple of angle fittings which would do the same job as the Banjo to aim down as I expect it to be tight in there.
Good news is, my Filter kit should be here tomorrow, then off to the Stealerships for the K1 kit. So, I should be putting in mine soon so I can offer first hand info. :-) Problem is, I am about to do more than one change, so I need a plan to do separately so I can actually see what if anything fixed my problem.
Plan A : Change the filter/fluid and install the K1 kit. This doesn't involve lowering the Trans. Test Drive - and I HOPE I can to the test post and measure the plug.
Also check the Vacuum while I am down there and replace the shift bushing.
Plan B: Actually measure the current pressure before replacing the Modulator. I might even apply vacuum to the modulator to check for a ruptured diaphragm and or does it leak. I don't think so as my fluid level is fine. I did have to replace some but I also had some small leaks corrected by just tightening the pan bolts. Good since then.
Plan C: Is to change the modulator. Most likely even if these changes correct my problems as I now own a new one.
I was thinking IF I do purchase the testor, I might put together a little Rental Program in place for members. I was thinking a Pressure and Vac Gage with plenty of hose to run into the car for drive testing. Say $ 10 + $ 5 for UPS Rental paid to PayPal and who ever has it forwards to who ever needs it kinda thing. Might be a lame idea.
Check this one out you are going to love it.
I added it to the K1 walkthrough page of this post and then referenced that in the original DYI so folks can find it easier
I found that article but the pics were missing. Others were asking were to find the pics. I have not picked up the kit yet and I didn't expect 3 springs, I thought it was one. I need a better pic of the exact location, don't want to pull and replace the wrong assembly now do I. :-) The exploded trans repair you posted will supply location just fine I think when I get ready.
Also, one guy was complaining about the use of Mobil 1 synth, trans started slipping in most gear changes. Blamed Mobil 1 for being tooooo slick. Says a lot for Mobil 1 actually if you could adjust for it there should be less wear. He went back to Dextron III and was happy again.
WoW!! Most Excellent, doesn't get any better than this. I really like the ratchet driver. I have a couple but mine are junk, but I have a fixed angle driver so I should be good to go.
You are really getting into this "how to" stuff. Good Job.
Can you switch the K1 link on the first page with this one,,, way better pics and they are perfect... how do I know you may be asking,, I just replaced my K1 spring.
Use this one: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w201...t-install.html
Report - My symptoms was 1 to 2, a bit hard at times but not bad, Excellent at lower shift speeds or full. 2nd to 3rd was the problem, lazy shift with a flare any where around 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Trans had to be fully warmed up, dip stick a bit hot to touch for this to show up. Flare would average about 500 RPM's worst case. Not every day but most and especially holding the throttle at about 50% and don't move it. 3 to 4th, perfect.
I picked up the kit at the Steelership, a bargain at $ 10. By chance when I wasn't looking I found an Angle Ratchet as shown in the pics a couple of days ago in a bargain bin, damn thing works great.
After going over the pics I set out to seek and destroy. Drained the pan and the converter, converter takes a while to drain. I used the time to tighten the return line on the power steering pump, a bitch to get to but it had a slow leak and it was loose.
Placed a sheet of cardboard and a layer of newspaper under the pan, that was a good thing as it drips forever with the pan off.
K1 location, bolts, everything was exactly as in the pics, hats off to the guy who took the time to share with pics. Tips like leaving the last screw partially in was a nice, didn't have to figure which way the plate went back on.
Even though I had just looked at the pics, once under the car and I pulled the K1 unit out, NO smaller spring in the housing. Panic mode was about to set in when I realized the smaller spring is inside the Green K1 housing.. whew...
He was right, assembling the springs and locking the white plastic pc into the black takes a bit of pressure but some care and no springs went flying.
Spring pressure of the assembly is considerably more, 30 to 50% more than existing.
Re-assembled, filled with 5 qts, I fired it up and went through the gears to fill the converter, and I couldn't be sure All the fluid came out. I checked the cold dip stick and then added the 6th qt. 722.4 takes 6.6 liters, or 6.95 qt. and went for a slow test drive.
1 to 2, 2 to 3 was perfect at lower shift speeds and 3 to4th was about undetectable smooth.
I put on about 3-4 miles, all throttle positions many times from stop sign to stop sign. I had a big smile,,, WoW! this is great. 1-2-3 was just amazing.
Well, I wish I could say this was how it ended, around mile 5 or 6, hard driving, manual and auto shifting the 2 to 3rr Flare reappeared though a bit different. Flare is lower, maybe 2-300 RPM's worse case but it gets over it a bit quicker and firmer.
We will see how it goes this next week. Even when hot enough for the Flare to show up. any normal traffic shift points , say 1-2 around 20 mph and 2 to 3rd 30 to 35 mph, very nice on both. When hot the flare is up around 40+MPH 3000 RMS and it's 2-300 rpms, worse I saw was one 400 RPM Flare.
Next will be the new Modulator/pin and check the existing pressure first just because, then replace the Mod and set the pressure.
Thanks Bob for pointing out the link mistake That is the link I meant to have there I guess I just put the wroung one.
Glad to see you got it changed hopefully the modulator and pressure adjustment will take care of the small flare you are having now
Hey, no problem. I knew that was the one you wanted. I panicked 'where's the good pics?" :-) The good link was just perfect, everything he showed was exactly what I saw.
The lessor Flare was still there today but it is much better. Over all all shifts are very nice at normal traffic driving, really nice. I guess Fluid/Filter change did something. No flare, no hard shifts anywhere at lower shift points, very nice.
I am still optimistic the flare will go away even more as if I slightly back off, just a bit of pedal pressure at the right time it is a good as 3 to 4th. So Vac and pressure or even linkage might still play a role here.
This is probably a stupid question, but how do you remove the modulator? I have the transmission lowered and I can twist it using plyers, but it won't come off.
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86' 190e 2.3-16:
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This is probably a stupid question, but how do you remove the modulator? I have the transmission lowered and I can twist it using plyers, but it won't come off.
If you look along the top of the modulator valve you will see 2 small bolts that hold a keeper in place. Remove the bolts, slide the keeper off and the modulator will pull straight out. Check the actuating pin, sometimes they break.
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