is it a flair in the second to 3rd shift if so it will probably be the K1
Exactly, see post #5 :-)
Dan
Edit: and post #55 on the "Kicking Trannie" thread.
just called my local Stealership, Caliber Motors of Anaheim, CA. They have 17 K1 kits in stock, $ 9.10. Part number jived 126 270 44 77 as a K1 kit for a 722.xxx trans. What a deal. So, when I get the new filter and shift bushing in, I am going the K1 route first by symptom for me and I don't have to drop the trans., just go in when the pan is down.
And the "Superior Spring kit" which get's a mess of springs to alter the shift the way you want it. $ 50
Last edited by Logon_Bob : 02-13-2008 at 09:57 AM.
you are very welcomed and I am glad I could help and I hope it helps alot of people with tranny problems. what problems were you having with your 190
Well I just picked up another 16v drove it 1500k home. But now its blowing white smoke and is dead slow. Seems like I don't start in second but third and the actual gear selector in the car is just sloppy and I can't select 2,3,d, just sort of in the middle. New problem when I went out today if I rev it up to 4k or so it takes like 10 seconds to come back down.
Check all basic stuff first such as plugs wires filter etc.
On the smoke issue make sure you check the engine oil to see if it is milky or if there is any milky rsidue on the oil cap. I am having you check this to see if you have a headgasket problem you said it was white smoke and low power trans fuild can appear white but it will have a blue or grey tint to it. If the smoke fills up several lanes of traffic then maybe it is the modulator but if it is just a small cloud of white smoke it could be the headgasket which would help explain your power problem. Oh yea does the car get hot?
The gear shift selector being sloppy is caused from the bushings on the shift linkage going bad The car should always starts in first even though your selector only goes to 2nd
The high idle can be many things is your ABS light on.
Check the fuse or fuses in the OVP relay. The OVP Relay is behind the battery next to the Modules and looks like this
I also attached a schematic
Also you may need to start checking vacuum lines there are some that go to the ICV(idle control valve) that are common to go bad from age or the valve could be going bad
Check some of this and let me know what you find. If you dont have on yet get the W201 manual here Modified Technologies, Inc | Enthusiast Gear it is a large file to down load but it will be very helpful for ya
__________________ Why dream of just any vehicle, when you can dream of owning one that was never imported.
Well I just picked up another 16v drove it 1500k home. But now its blowing white smoke and is dead slow. Seems like I don't start in second but third and the actual gear selector in the car is just sloppy and I can't select 2,3,d, just sort of in the middle. New problem when I went out today if I rev it up to 4k or so it takes like 10 seconds to come back down.
Interesting problem and not seeing it makes it tough but if one was to speculate on a few things as it may be the same problem or more than one.
How is the idle, RPM's cold and warmed up and is the idle pretty smooth?
Sloppy Linkage is most likely the shift bushing but by your description it is really sloppy if you can't select the gear you want. My bushing is gone, new one coming Friday. I can still select any gear but if the selector is in the 2nd slot, start off is 1st, pushing straight forward but not allowing it to go left into the D slot it won't come out of 1st until you do allow it to go into the D slot. Maybe the bushing has been gone for so long it's worn the linkage as well. Bushing is $ 1.95.
Idle not coming down quickly enough can only be a increase of air intake, either a vacuum leak some air source or the throttle body might be sticking. Pulling the air box you can see what's going on there. 10 seconds is quite a long time, not so sure if even the modulator vac line disconnected and not plugged it would allow enough air, it's quite small but possible.
Since it's now blowing WHITE smoke, you should warm up the tranny and check the fluid level. Since you drove 1500 miles one would think if the modulator is sucking fluid it should be down. Keep in mind, you can check the fluid after only 3 mins of running but you have to look in your manual and it will tell you how far below the min line it should be for your model. Or get it hot enough ( drive a few miles ) that the dip stick is very uncomfortable to handle and compare against the full mark.
Pull the vac line off the modulator and see if the White Smoke stops. I was also wondering if sucking Trans Fluid, does it foul plugs and or how much before you would foul plugs. You could also do a test of plugging the vac line and unplugged to see if it comes down to an idle normally.
Of course check your oil level as well assuming you checked before you left to come home you will know if it is burning oil as well. And check the plugs.
That's about it from me.
Let us know what you find.
Hey I have to come over here from the 190rev more often you guys are great. Before I brought the car back I checked the fluids and all were full. When it warmed up outside I noticed the white smoke. ( probably smoked the whole time but it was -30 out so I might not of noticed) I read this post, went out and checked the fluid and it was now not even showing a drop. So I filled the fluid up and now smoke is still flowing and the revs have gone wacky, maybe not 10 seconds but a good 5. The shifter problem I think you right about the linkage. I will check all your suggestions tomorrow. I called the dealership and it's only 65$ for the mod so Ill get that bushing to. Oh and it idles a little rough when cold at 600 rpm but perfect when warmed up at about 1k
Thanks for all the help, I was starting to think my new 16v had a bad tranny and a blown HG.
be sure to change those bushings on your linkage while you got that tranny down. The ruff idle can be caused by a few things.
Along with the other list of things to check you might want to check this after everythig else if you have fixed the modulator and a tune up has been done vaccum lines checked etc. If you still have a rough idle.
Check all of the breather hoses for correct fit/mounting and cracks.
If total vehicle miles are over 100K, you might want to replace the seals
between intake and injector.
Cold Start Valve O-Ring bad?
E.H.A. Valve bad or Seal leaking?
Water Temperature Sensor for computer giving false signal?
Damaged wire?
Cold Start Valve O-Ring
Note: Seal Ring
Also used at inlet connector to fuel distributor.
E1030-19034 Fuel Filter Seal 8.2mm ID Bosch $0.69
C4002-70381 Cold Start Valve O-Ring $0.57
Picture of E.H.A. Valve that is Mounted on fuel distributor. EHA valve can cause a ruff idle it is located on the side of the fuel distribtuion unit.
PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1990 Mercedes Benz 190E 2.6
Part: E.H.A. Valve Seal
C2032-70434 E.H.A. Valve Seal IN STOCK $2.45
Hey I have to come over here from the 190rev more often you guys are great. Before I brought the car back I checked the fluids and all were full. When it warmed up outside I noticed the white smoke. ( probably smoked the whole time but it was -30 out so I might not of noticed) I read this post, went out and checked the fluid and it was now not even showing a drop. So I filled the fluid up and now smoke is still flowing and the revs have gone wacky, maybe not 10 seconds but a good 5. The shifter problem I think you right about the linkage. I will check all your suggestions tomorrow. I called the dealership and it's only 65$ for the mod so Ill get that bushing to. Oh and it idles a little rough when cold at 600 rpm but perfect when warmed up at about 1k
Thanks for all the help, I was starting to think my new 16v had a bad tranny and a blown HG.
A Modulator can be had for $ 40 , autohausaz.com
Idle at 600/1000: Your ICV is not working. There is an entire thread devoted to the ICV. mmmm "who really knows the ICV" I think is the title of the thread. Idle should be 750 ish warmed up. Cold start about 1k, 28 seconds and drop to 750. Funny thing is, if you're not paying attention, idle warm at 1k, when in gear idling is 750 so you think all is well. Could be sticky, hose leak ( not likely as the idle would be higher ) or no voltage from the OPV Hattenator posted. The ICV has a heater element that when voltage is applied, it warms up and closes down the ICV, so even though there's voltage present, the heater element could be bad as well. That is checked with an Ohm meter, it's in the thread.
Or, the 4 pin temp sensor: I just read Hattenators post. "Water Temperature Sensor for computer giving false signal"
Dan
Last edited by Logon_Bob : 02-14-2008 at 08:39 AM.
How do you know when you have "arrived"? When Google brings up your thread. :-) I was searching again this morning for a Transmission Pressure Gage kit and page 2 of the results was this thread!!!! Congrats.
Why dream of just any vehicle,
when you can dream of owning one that was never imported.
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