Of course we all know you get what you pay for , but.... Just cause we pay a more money like a lot more sometimes, determining value and a good job can be tough at times.
Stopped by good Ol' Earl Shieb's and go the spiel. Oh, my Clear Coat is shot on at least 40% of my 92. Paint is good, one small rock ding on the hood and a quarter size depression on a fender. Doesn't really even have any scatches to speak of.
Doesn't matter, got take it all off new undercoat and then paint. Their top line job with Urethane and the Clear built in not shot over is $ 550.00. If you're a new color and need the jambs and stuff it's like $ 850
Today by chance the son of a elderly neighbor I help a lot owns a Custom Auto Painting shop stops by, I am over fixing her Furnace so she won't freeze tonight.
If I do some removal of some items my Deal Price is $ 1600 - $ 1800. Also says top quality Urethane with the Clear in it and will last longer than the car.
With what the value of our 190's are going for mmmm no way would I sell mine for no $ 2000 or so but the paint job is somewhat close to the value of the car.
I have read online the good , bad and ugly reviews on the big Paint Shops like Earl's there are a number of them.
So what's your take on choosing a shop and what sounds reasonable as a price to pay. I am not looking for Show Quality but I don't want it following off next year either.
Whatcha Think?
Dan
aka still living in the 60's, pair of Levi's were $8. :-) mmmm I actually remember 6.95 but my mom complained then of the high cost. :-)
Make friends. My boy shane paints everything on my cars. Panel at a time. For cost. And his paint job is beautiful.
Example of my front fender weeks after it was painted..
I thought I had taking care of MoM :-) but I have no clue if it's a deal or not. Maybe your boy Shane can offer some clues as what to look for or offer suggestions for value.
I am afraid the air fare for new found friend Boy Shane would exceed the locals even if I threw in lunch and a place to stay.
dont mind along the edge between the door and the fender, thats a green door reflecting into the black paint, haha.The whole car is black now im just lazy for pix
There is many brands of paint products. Top brands are probably PPG, Dupont, Sickens and sherwinn williams (which I hate) depending on the area you live in. There is also some real high end brands European paints for instance Which are very expensive. The brands named are the main ones you see in most insurance quality Repair facilities. Each one of theses has there top of the line products and then you get into the low end.
Take for instance PPG top line is Global which you see in some repair shops The next one down is Deltron which is in most shops due to the expense of global but it is still a very good line. Then they have there bottom which is Omni. These are all urethane type products and each line has a single stage or multi stage process.
I don't have much experience with Sickens or SW but I have many hours with PPG and Dupont. Being ICAR Gold class, PPG and Dupont certified. When I say ask questions, ask not just what they are going to do but what product line they are using and what type of warranty they will give you.
Most of your top of the line products come with a good warranty from reputable shops. It may cost you more then Earl but your New paint will last as long as the original or longer. Your lower end paints are just that take Omni for instance PPG's lower end. I have seen pretty paint jobs with this stuff but in a couple of years the clear is looking bad and in some cases peeling.
Collision repair facilities work mainly on insurance work why would they want to paint an old car for more time and less money when they can be working on a new one do less work and make more. The main thing is product and quality of work, research whoever you are thinking of having do work. Look at work he has done. Ask him for references of vehicles you can see and some of them being a few years back.
In paint work you do get what you pay for but you can pay less if you find an independent that does good work and uses good quality products.
This is probably the funnest car I ever worked on. I put many hours into the body of this car. The shop owner that I worked for and Mark are friends this car was sweet. I am by no means saying I was the only one working on this. But for the most part I was. The shop owner and manager did do some the manager layed out the stripes and everyone spent time buffing because it was sprayed with dupont a top of the line product at that and then allowed to set tooo loooong. The clear dried so hard it was like buffing a rock. We spent many hours block sanding and buffing on this thing but it takes a long time to get one this slick. This car had a custom one of a kind front end. it was sectioned to the specs they needed and pieced back together. Then I had to take a chooped up carbon fiber front and make it look like this. Carbon fiber is a pain in the A$$.
This last part is off your subject a little and its not a MB but this is what you want a good body and paint guy to show ya
WORLD'S FASTEST CENTRIFUGAL PRO MOD
Mark Micke
6.32 ET @ 228 MPH
ProCharger F-3R-139
__________________ Why dream of just any vehicle, when you can dream of owning one that was never imported.
This is what I needed to know. "we use the good stuff "doesn't cut it. I will find out which brand and series.
The consensus on line is the $ 500 Earl ( or others ) is to get the customer out the door reasonably happy and quite often to sell the car, though they offer warranty's I guess they have many outs.
I was mentally prepared for say 2x Earls but at 3-1/2 x mmmmmm getting up there.
What was funny when Googling around, there is a number of links to a $ 50 dollar in your back yard job using Rustoleum and a roller from Home Depot :-) with a lot of sanding and buffing. No I am not going that way, but some examples don't look too bad.
Ok, so I am still working on the neighbors furnace problem and got to ask more questions on my paint job est. PPG Acrylic Urethane runs in the neighborhood of $ 300 / gallon and with all the other stuff, integrated Clear etc., materials alone are $400 +.
We are now around 12 to $1500, I am pulling whatever, bumpers, door handles and such plus reassembly. If they did turn key it would be close to double.
Also, since we are in Sunny Californy with it's strict rules on paint, some of the ol school options are just not legal anymore. Also, at the end of this year we have to go to Water Based paint. mmmmmmm
that sounds like the PPG global line. ask him which line it is he should say global if not let me know. For an all over paint job in California that doesnt sound to high. Have you seen any of his work.
Clear in VS over the top.
Clear coat was actually invented to give paint guys back in the laquer and acryllic enamel days something to work with after the paint job was over on metallic colors plus it saved time. It was primarily used on metallic's this being because you could not sand and buff a metallic color that did not have clear over it. You would mess it up.
Clear is still mainly used on metallic colors today and is a necessity Most show cars use a basecoat clearcoat 2 stage system that is how they get the glass look.
Is your car metallic or a solid color. If it is solid I would not worry about the intigrated clear. If it is metallic I would want a 2 stage system used versus a single stage.
Why dream of just any vehicle,
when you can dream of owning one that was never imported.
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