that sounds like the PPG global line. ask him which line it is he should say global if not let me know. For an all over paint job in California that doesnt sound to high. Have you seen any of his work.
Clear in VS over the top.
Clear coat was actually invented to give paint guys back in the laquer and acryllic enamel days something to work with after the paint job was over on metallic colors plus it saved time. It was primarily used on metallic's this being because you could not sand and buff a metallic color that did not have clear over it. You would mess it up.
Clear is still mainly used on metallic colors today and is a necessity Most show cars use a basecoat clearcoat 2 stage system that is how they get the glass look.
Is your car metallic or a solid color. If it is solid I would not worry about the intigrated clear. If it is metallic I would want a 2 stage system used versus a single stage.
Thanks again.
I have the Signal Red solid now. All my senses say to just go with that but there are a couple of Reds I dearly like. I don't know the exactly color code, but one is on a newer Corvette, another on a Cadillac , heck I even like the much darker Red on a my honey's Mitsibishi Endevour,, all Metallics' . :-( Must think about this.
The shop is only a few miles away, I plan on a visit.
I would stay with the factory color just because it would cost more to do the jambs it is alot of work disasembling and perping all of them for paint. Jambs can be a problem because of all the things peole use on there vehicle all those armour all products etc. Paint and these chemicals do not mix and the jambs have to be preped and cleaned well but a good tech will know this.
If you are gonig to keep the car as I assume you are since your thinking of putting this kind of money into it then do the color of your choice. Any shade of Red expensive, the highest of the colors next to some of the pearlecent and tri coats. Balck and white being the lower of the scale. this is due to the tinting colors used to achieve the color you see.
__________________ Why dream of just any vehicle, when you can dream of owning one that was never imported.
yes you would pay for an Evo II clone. I can tell ya with the body kit $1800 and the Wheels $1920 plus tires plus paint +++++++ I am getting alot of green tied up in this project but when its done it will be nice.
I want to try to find all the little things to like the decal on the fenders, correct seats and steering wheel I am going to try to make this thing as authentic looking as I can. I try to latch onto every piece of info and picture I can get to reference this car so I can see and read what all it had like the suspension. it had a ride hieght adjustments that could be made from inside the car not sure where I will find all that from and I might not be able to get alot of peices.
I need to get back with MTI he was telling me some of the differences in the 2.3-16 and the 2.5-16 from the evoII. I am wanting to try and mod a 2.3 to perform and look like a 2.5-16. I believe the evo II had a different managment system and pistons, head, rods, crank, a bunch of stuff but I need to find that person that knows the EVO II inside and out. This sounds like a new thread I need to start all Evolution II info HERE
Well this was way off your subject but you mentioned EVO II and got me started
Speaking of paint and evoII's.
I just had my fenders and bumper painted.
The rest of the car is soon to follow.
Having it painted by a guy down the street who works for a friend of my boss.
He does awesome work.
He's going to prep, paint, sand, and buff my whole car for $1500 including paint and materials.
One question, where is a good place to get w201 rubber at, other than the dealer?
That sure looks like EVO 2 parts on that fender thats not fair You will have to check out the new post on the EVO II I did I am hoping to complie some parts and places to get them.
That sure looks like EVO 2 parts on that fender thats not fair You will have to check out the new post on the EVO II I did I am hoping to complie some parts and places to get them.
[quote=HATTENATOR;2732607]that sounds like the PPG global line. ask him which line it is he should say global if not let me know. For an all over paint job in California that doesn't sound to high. Have you seen any of his work.
Clear in VS over the top.
Clear coat was actually invented to give paint guys back in the laquer and acryllic enamel days something to work with after the paint job was over on metallic colors plus it saved time. It was primarily used on metallic's this being because you could not sand and buff a metallic color that did not have clear over it. You would mess it up.
******** snipped ***
Nice paint on the White Evo parts, envious.
I read about Global on PPG, agreed and also good for production shops with being faster in between coats. Deltron should do me just fine.
I went down to the shop yesterday just see some examples. Pretty much all custom stuff, 50 Ford P/U completely disassembled. Fairly dark green metallic, PPG Deltron and gorgeous. This will be a daily driver not a show car.
Also saw a Porsche / Black integrated clear Delton in the buff stages, looked like it will turn out nice as well. Assorted other stuff around, 56 Chevy and some race cars.
So, after some more talk I am going with the Delton/integrated ( lots of UV protection ) and the stock Signal Red. Too many issues with changing Red's and the Corvette/Cadillac type Red's I am in love with are Triple Candy's, approx $ 5000 jobs and if you get a ding your looking at painting say the entire fender or hood and at a great cost.
So, I have a few issues I need to get around. The Sunroof being one, should it come out or not. They can work around it in , best is out but they can be a bitch with leaks if not put back perfectly. The Seal is showing some age, works perfect now but how much longer mmmm.
Chrome trim pc that goes up the windshield side and over the roof. Not sure just how that comes out or if needed.
Side skirts will be coming off to paint separately. I will have to visit 2Phast's site again. :-)
I have not explored just yet. Door rubbers are perfect, soft and like new. Any one know if they are glued or pressed in. Glued they will stay and worked around. About a $ 100 a door to replace if I tear them. They can be taped and folded back out the way, not perfect but..
Looks like I will need new Mirror Housings, the Black inners are weathered and one is starting to crack.
Biggest issue is I am thinking of a few mods. I think I got the EvoII out of my system, just not practical or in the cards right now, nor do I have the motor to back up the look. :-) I am looking for a 16v or AMG low rear spoiler for now since paint is coming anyway. I found a factory used one that came off 16v, needs a bit of work.
Ground effects stuff is not too practical for me as I go on Desert Fire roads quite often, they would get torn off.
All for now.
Dan
Last edited by Logon_Bob : 02-07-2008 at 06:43 PM.
Deltron is a good line it is used in alot of production collision repair faclities and was used for many years before global was around.
I probably would not remove the sun roof. If you decide to I remember seeing the set by step in the MB w201 manual also here is a link for the seal if the other place doesnt have it. you may be able to find one cheaper190E Mercedes Benz 1992 Sunroof Seal - AutoPartsWarehouse.com
Glad you decided to stay stock on color. The tri coats are horible when you have to fix them. I can remember spending two hours doing test panels on one tricoat pearl before we got it right then we had to spray it in an un orthidoxed manner just to get the flop we wanted for a blendable match.
If memory serves the door seals have just a few clips and are otherwise pressed in. check the w201 manual it covers these
The attached pages 46 47 and 48 cover that trim that runs from the windshield over the top I would remove that but becareful with it being old it could crack or break.
The other page contains the info on your front and rear windshield and trim I am think the trim on the back glass is put on before the glass is installed not sure thow I didnt read it all. If you dont have it get the w201 manual it will help you with this whole project you can find it here Modified Technologies, Inc | Enthusiast Gear
P.S> the manual also has the info you need for installing that spoiler you are talking about
I get done with this post and then look over at u giving info of how to use the index to the manual I guess that means you have it LOL
Last edited by HATTENATOR : 02-07-2008 at 10:30 PM.
You spent a lot of time. :-) Yes I have the manual plus I also downloaded the online version. They are very similar just a few changes.
The pics and descriptions crack me up, well sort of as they leave a lot to be desired. Reminds once of a trip to the home center. There was this fireplace with a big sign on it how easy it was to install.
1. Cut Hole
2. Place Fireplace
3 Light
So, being cheap it looks like I have bit off quite a bit with a major learning curve. Most of it is pretty easy. I have not found the method of attachment of the side skirts yet. :-(
Why dream of just any vehicle,
when you can dream of owning one that was never imported.
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