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Old 12-23-2007, 01:18 PM   #1 (permalink)
Kynyption
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DIY - Custom Tweeter Pods

Cross Posting From 190rev To Include in FAQ

Quote:
Originally Posted by BabyCarlsson,Jan 3 2005, 03:33 AM on the other site
Custom tweeter pods - same process can be used on variety of car stereo installation applications, including the custom sub enclosures, kick panels and lower front door map pocket conversion to accept speakers.

Please keep in mind that these tweeter pods would work only if you have both electric mirrors or have an aftermarket set with out the handles going into the cabin



Here are few pictures if you decide to do this yourself. It really is not difficult if you are even remotely DIY person…

What you would need:

Two smaller size caps from the spray paint
Grill cloth (or any other cheap fabric)
Four cheap brushes
Hole saw or Dremel
Glue (super glue, hot glue, what every you have)
Epoxy resin
Zip ties
Sand paper
Paint

Find two caps from the spray paint, big enough to accept your new tweeters and small enough to fit the pillars.

Find the angle of the tweeter position that you would be pleased with and trim the cap to that angle. If you have a belt sender, takes no time at all, but small scissors, hot knife, soldering iron with cutting blade works as well



Position the cap on the pillar to the desired location and glue it once you satisfied with the placement. Measure the distance from the bottom of the pillar to the bottom of the cap to ensure that the distance is identical on both, left and right finished pods



Test fit this mock up to ensure you are happy with the position/angle while it’s in place

Now it’s time for some “tailoring”… Fabric – grill cloth or alike works best, as it is stretchable in any direction and being synthetic, it hardens very well with the epoxy.Cut a piece of the fabric approximately twice the size of the pillar. Wrap it around the pillar tightly, adjust as needed, ensure it is stretched evenly to the maximum.



Once you are happy with the positioning of the cloth around the pillar, use a zip tie from the bottom to prevent it from unwrapping.



Line the vise with a trash bag to prevent the drippings on the table and the vise, leave a gap between the pillar and vise.



Mix epoxy as outlined in the direction supplied with the product. You would need only 1oz per application for each pillar, so don’t mix more than you need as you are only wasting the resin. Using one of your 4 brushes, brush on the resin over the pillar cloth evenly, ensuring that there are no dry spots. Few thin coats works better than just dumping most of it all at once. Don’t forget brush underneath around the entire perimeter.



Let dry as outlined in the instructions from your epoxy.

Apply the second coat of the epoxy, again, you will not need more than 1oz of the resin. Let dry as outlined in the instructions from your epoxy. Trim off the access material from the bottom.

Drill out the opening for the tweeter mounting cap to fit in flush. You can use Dremel if you don’t have the hole saw. Make another hole in the back of the pillar for the mounting ring and the wires (depending on your tweeters) Clean out the edges and test fit the tweeter.

Using 240 grid sand paper, smooth out any imperfections, finish with 400 and 600 as needed. Prime and smooth out as needed



Hope this helps
Paint as you please. Flat black paint is what I used. Mount the tweeter, and here is the finished product



Dark in the garage and so not the best shot:



Hope this helps

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

The placement of the tweeters on the A-Pillars also gives a nice advantage of adjusting your imagining and staging, considering there is no room to play with under the stock grills of the dash (at least when you have 3.5” – 4” speakers there.

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Q:any idears on subs?

A:The principle of custom FG sub enclosures is exactly the same as these tweeters.

*You would first make a good frame, ensuring that everything fits well and laid out to please your aesthetic preferences.
*Stretch the material over the frame, attached to the frame with the staples and apply resin.
*Once it dries up, rough sanding first, additional coats to achieve the desired thickness.
*Once you are happy with the strength of the enclosure, rough sand it again and apply the body filler, makes it so much easier to sand than the actual FG.
*Prime and paint.

I lost all of my images from the prior installs when my old computer crashed, but check out this guy's site, it’s a little rough but should give you good visual idea how it is done

http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/Glassing2/index.htm

Hope this helps!

D
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