I recently discovered my wife had run the 2.6 low on oil . It was at least 2 quarts below the add mark. No unusual noises . So I added oil to fill. Last night while i was driving I noticed the oil pressure gauge was lower than normal. It usually goes up to 3(top) on acceleration but it was about 2.5 when I noticed. As I continued to drive it continued to move lower . Eventually, it would not go up much from 0 at all . I checked oil level and it is OK(no leaks). Is this consistent with a failed pressure sender or should I be expecting bigger problems (oil pump) ?
in my experience a failed pressure sender, being an electrical switch, does not fail gradually: it either works or it doesn't. Given the nature of your issue and the possible ramifications I'd advise against driving the car until the problem is diagnosed and rectified. Have your car towed to whichever garage you trust/have work on your car and get them to look at it.
Better to foot a towing bill and maybe have to pay for a rebuild (or new engine), than to make a rebuild and/or a new engine a certainty.
__________________ '93 W124.036 199/040; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '93 W124.036 481/040; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs '88 R107.048 441/409; Euro lights '87 W201.034 199/040; Euro lights; 8x16 EvoIs; EvoII brakes; Eibach Pro-Kit springs; #1 spring pads; W124 Sportline front swaybar; EvoII rear swaybar; 300TE swaybar endlinks; wrapped exhaust; deleted cat; gutted pre-cats; Schroth 3-pt autocross harness; Flex-a-lite 16" electric engine fan; '70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights
Just for your information the Oil Pressure Sender, for Gauge is around $40.95 and is located at the back of your housing that your oil filter screws on. The oil pressure relief value is located in the oil pump, which can be moved from oil pump, the oil pump is a sealed unit. the cost is $125.00. Can test the oil pressure with test gauge at the oil pressure sender unit after removing.
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Classic black 1992 190E 2.6, with over 250,000 km, Silver 1998 SLK230 (sold)
Thanks to those who replied . I spoke to a local mechanic this weekend and he advised me not to move the vehicle. But first he said "Change the oil and filter and be sure the pressure sender is in place" . The oil/filter change fixed the problem .
Don't know why . Perhaps the filter was partially clogged . Anyway, the old horse is running great now. Oil pressure is a strong 3 when it should be .
Thanks to those who replied . I spoke to a local mechanic this weekend and he advised me not to move the vehicle. But first he said "Change the oil and filter and be sure the pressure sender is in place" . The oil/filter change fixed the problem .
Don't know why . Perhaps the filter was partially clogged . Anyway, the old horse is running great now. Oil pressure is a strong 3 when it should be .
Thanks for the feedback. Now I will have to add an oil filter to my spare parts in the my trunk.
Just couple of questions:
1) Was your old oil synthetic and did you use regular oil this time?
2) Was old filter the newer short type (which is the type you get now from MB dealer and other aftermarket shops) or your new filter the old longer type (the original type, which can be found at NAPA)?
I found references on the internet to the above conditions as maybe the reason that the oil pressure goes down. Meaning that one person changed from regular oil to synthetic and the oil pressure dropped and another changed from the long type filter to the short type and the oil pressure dropped.