The car in question is a 1991 190E 2.0 (M102) with sportsline 5-speed transmission. Recently past the 200,000 Kilometer mark... somewhere around 125,000 miles.
The car also has an LPG system installed, but its designed to start on gasoline and once the car is revved past 2000 RPM, switches over to LPG.
When I start the car up, most of the time I have to hold the key for about 4-5 seconds before it catches and starts. Sometimes I get lucky and only requires 1-2 seconds. I did notice that most of the time if I restart the car right after having it started, it would start up instantly.
What should I look at, what else can cause the problem I am experiencing. I have a 560SEL with low miles that starts up as soon as I turn the key. I'd like to have that same "feel" with my 190E.
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1990 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL soon to be Euro-spec clone AMG (summer of '09)
1991 Mercedes-Benz 190E AMG (undergoing restoration: July 1 - October 17, 2008)
I'm not 100%, but some 190E owners have said in some posts that by replacing the vacuum modulator it repairs this problem. I'm having hard shifts with my 1992
& probably be replacing the modulator next week. I'll keep everyone posted.
Something about transmission fluid in the intake ???
I know what snibble was talking about! Ironically a malfunctional Vacuum Modulator will cause transmission fluid to enter the intake & thus causing
hard starting. Many 190E owners have stated that by replacing the VM
their cars start much better & the shifts are perfect.
I will do a search & post soon.
My 92 190e 2.6 shifts real hard!!!....I was always wondering what it was...I was scared the tranny was pooched....maybe it is just the Vacuum Modulator..
Is it hard to install or change?
Expensive?
Thanx
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If you ain't riding in a Benz, you might as well hate.
The vacuum modulator is what determines how hard the car shifts. The less vacuum the bigger load on the engine and the harder it shifts, which is why a vacuum leak would cause it to always shift hard
I would check your lines to see if you got a crack before assuming is the modulator. Because you might replace that sucker then end up still in deep shit because your lines wont hold a vacuum.'
Not my picture but you never know it may be in the same area.
you can see here the vacuum connection at the air intake end which then goes to the modulator on the side of the transmission.
Check for vacuum at the modulator line, idling the vacuum reading on a good engine is 14” to 22”
Then check for vacuum response, a quick opening and closing of the throttle should cause the vacuum to drop below 5” then rebound to 23’ or more. . If you do not have the proper reading, follow the line up and check for leaks.
And quoting a benzworld member
"also, the vacuum modulator valve is not easy to get to, you must drop the transmission to get to it. In my case I cut through the metal body from the inside by the gas pedal to get to it. The reason being, the valve must be adjusted for proper shifting, so it needs to be accesible as you test the vehicle.
The final lesson I learned. Leave the expensive parts on your car alone, repair and replace everything around them before replacing them. 2 fuel distributors was expensive, and there was probably nothing wrong with the original one."
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