Hi! I need help to figure out what problem I got with the transmission. I was revving a little bit and released the clutch and then I heard a strong "pop", not a clanking noise which would have been the clutch I think. When I put in a gear and push the throttle nothing happens except just a kind of quiet noise in the rear part of the car.. what do you think it could be??
Flex disc sure would be a lot easier than a differential!
While you're checking the rear flex disc, if that's what went, do yourself a favor and inspect the front too. I usually replace them in pairs, so I know that both the front and rear have the same mileage on them.
Ok thanks a lot guys! I don't have the possibility to crawl under the car right now, but I could see that the prop shaft does turn even in neutral gear. Is it supposed to do that? Btw I noticed that the quiet noise in the rear gets a bit louder when I put in the second gear.. if that is somewhat helping.
Did you have the car off the ground when the prop shaft was turning? If it was turning and the wheels were on the ground and not turning, then that's likely a problem with the rear differential, as in "you need to replace it."
The prop shaft isn't supposed to turn in neutral. Something is wrong with your transmission. Your clutch might be slightly engaged. It could be a hydraulic issue or you simply broke the release fork.
If it's cold, I've found that the input shaft will turn even in neutral. If the car is in the air it would be obvious, it wouldn't be as apparent with the wheels on the ground -- so don't write your transmission off yet.
If you have the rear wheels off of the ground and the gearbox in neutral then the propshaft will turn by hand. If you have the wheels on the ground and you try to turn the propshaft with the gearbox in neutral then you are simulating the effect of an engine. I think you'd have to be pretty strong to propel a car forwards or backwards this way...
...especially with the parking brake on!
...if you can turn the propshaft with the rear wheels off of the ground and the gearbox in gear then the chances are that there's something wrong with clutch and gearbox - but - you have to keep going until you come up against compression (in the engine as one of the pistons moves during a compression stroke). If it is easy to turn the propshaft in this situation then there is obviously something wrong forwards of the propshaft - if not I'd be looking the other way => differential axles etc
My back, my arms and many other body parts are hurting but the prop shaft is well secured on both ends.
Test drive: smooth as silk, no vibration, clunking and other weirdness.
So! I haven't done what you instructed me to do, because I don't have any axle stand.. Instead I crawled under a bit and did this: (video) Instead of explaining by words with my limited "car English" I hope this will do.
Is this probably the only problem? What do I need to replace this? https://www.dropbox.com/s/sak8gkymaa1wzvu/20130823_165841.mp4
(Does the link work?)
I know it wasn't the propshaft, thanks anyway. The online English dictionary doesn't know what nadgered is.. :O
I haven't much mechanical/car experience, but I am very interested so I will try do do as much as I can. I will try!
Thanks for help!
The whole shaft, okey. I hope I could do it without some of the special tools but we will see. I can't find any local shops selling complete shafts. Do you have any suggestions? Are second-hands a good idea?
Used shafts would be okay. Scrap-yards/wreckers should have quite a few. Big sockets and good quality allen-head sockets are good to have.
EDIT: Ensure that you find one that fits your car. Older ones or ones from larger engines are different sizes, so take yours off first then go find a used one.
This is a guess based on the information given so far. It at least gives you a good idea of the prices in Germany - I take it Sweden doesn't have strange import taxes like Norway??? Or does it??? (My personal choice would be to pay the extra and get the SKF - if I were to buy second hand I'd be too tempted to pull it to pieces to check it was OK...)
You will need a special socket for the six bolts on the differential end. On the hub end, all you'll need is a breaker bar or a strong ratchet handle and a long pipe.
If you go for used, try to find out which side of the car it came from. If your problem axle is on the left, try to find a right side axle. Although the left & right are completely interchangeable, the wear pattern is characteristic to the side it's mounted on. By switching sides, you get most of the benefit of a new part, other than the boots. Use new fasteners to reinstall.
Hi again!
University studies take much time so things are going slow. I have at least been able to loose the half shaft from the wheel hub side. I just can't find out what socket I need for the differential end. Can you help me?
I now got a used driveshaft. Locking screws came along and I wonder if it is a bad idea to use them or is it really important to buy new ones as well as collar nut??
The locking screws are pre-painted loctite screws aren't they? If so the manual says to change them because they don't trust you to clean them properly and re-apply loctite to make sure they don't come loose.
The half shaft is now on and I decided to use the used bolts. I've been out testing it and it seems to work - no strange sounds or anything. I would though not be too surprised if it fell off next week or something.. or next year. Let's hope it wont.
Thank you for the help!!
If reusing bolts, I hope you used loctite or some other thread-locker on them. That's a big deal with this style of axle. If you put loctite on, great. Otherwise, go take care of it before you have a bigger problem on your hands!
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