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Old 07-31-2013, 08:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Didn't do the actual shifter yet. Where did you find the picture and parts for it? Having trouble with that.'
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddeamer View Post
Didn't do the actual shifter yet. Where did you find the picture and parts for it? Having trouble with that.'
When you get the bushings, it comes with instructions as well as a pretty detailed parts diagram.

Here's the MB diagram that you can look up on EPC:
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 190D Shifter.pdf (92.5 KB, 60 views)
File Type: pdf 190D Shifter 2.pdf (102.4 KB, 42 views)
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Old 12-26-2013, 12:08 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Are these Delrin bushings worth the premium price? Not that I've had much luck finding other sources for bushings...at least not many that specify compatibility with 190E/190D. I keep hearing about bronze/brass bushings, or maybe these are the Delrin? I get paid tomorrow, so might as well service them.
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You can easily go to a shop and have some brass bushings made as long as they have something to reference. I think someone said they had a set made for $20.
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Old 01-16-2014, 05:41 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Got the Delrin bushings, haven't installed them yet. I noticed that each bushing is 2 pieces, which makes installation easier, but are they as reliable? Suppose that I'll find out soon enough...
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:17 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kahlil88 View Post
Got the Delrin bushings, haven't installed them yet. I noticed that each bushing is 2 pieces, which makes installation easier, but are they as reliable? Suppose that I'll find out soon enough...
They are, you just need to make sure they snap in all the way. Some long needle-nose my help, especially when reinstalling the clips.

The bushings for the rods on the shifter side are easy. It's the bushings that connect the rods to the arms on the box itself where things get tight.
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Old 01-21-2014, 01:11 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Yep, they're some sweet mojo. The delrin will be much better then brass in the long run. Delrin is self-lubricating and naturally slippery so you just install them dry and never have to grease them ever. The kit I got had the shift rod bushings and the shifter bushings for inside the actual shifter. REBUILD THAT SHIFTER. I promise you'll be glad you did. Mine was full of dried 30 year old grease AND dried 20-30 year old coffee. My shifter bushings were in the same condition vai's were in. Both had ripped and torn away internally. My shifter went from sticky, gritty, rough, stiff, and sloppy, to slick, precise, and natural feeling.

So on a 1-10 difficulty, I'd put it at a 3 star or maybe 4 because of the frustration of limited space. But on a scale of 1-10 smiles, you'll get the full 10 when you drive it after the install.

Just 3 tips:

Heed his warning about using small amounts of lube on the plunging section of the shifter assembly. If you goop it up it'll hydrolock and create suction ie it'll get stuck. Use just a regular anti-sieze compound grease to lubricate the shifter, but don't grease the delrin bushings.

Don't take the washers out of the cylinder above the shift arms. He has a warning in the instructions about that. They're hard to put back in. I just cleaned the area out as well as I could, and then applied lots of antiseize. It worked its way around the area just fine after exercising it a bit.

Finally, I never have good luck with allen heads. There are two allens that hold the retaining collar on inside the shifter. I got one out fine, but the other rounded off and I destroyed it when I finally got it out. I drove my mom's car down to the local Ace hardware and matched the allen bolts to the new ones they had in stock. I bought two pairs in case I take it apart again. I'd suggest replacing the bolts if you can because they're pretty easy to strip, and the replacements had deeper allen pockets.

That's all I got for now. Please update and let us know when you get the bushings installed!!! I want to know if you love them a little or a lot!

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Old 01-23-2014, 09:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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servicing manual transmission shift linkage

i question the use of antiseize lubricant. in my years i had repeat work that antiseize was used. it pushes out, does not stay where you put it. hardens up and is best used for exhaust or engine bolts. after temp extremes are experienced, it helps fasteners be removed the next time. so in other words, where the fastener experiences high friction while tightening, or extreme temp while operating i would use it. if i wanted smooth free movement of parts, there are good choices out there and less expensive. there is a teflon paste in a tube that can be found cheaply online. a teflon grease we used at GM, comes in a little paint can,(dont lick your fingers), or at FORD we had a specific caliper lube. equivalents can be had in sprays too. they dont contain aluminum filings like antiseize. in a pinch vaseline is the same as the trans lube the builders use for automatics. you just cant use it where petroleum is going to degrade the plastics or the neoprene or natural rubber. another thought is silicone dielectric. FORD uses it on bushings and caliper slides.
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Old 01-23-2014, 11:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190Erur rur View Post
i question the use of antiseize lubricant. in my years i had repeat work that antiseize was used. it pushes out, does not stay where you put it. hardens up and is best used for exhaust or engine bolts. after temp extremes are experienced, it helps fasteners be removed the next time. so in other words, where the fastener experiences high friction while tightening, or extreme temp while operating i would use it. if i wanted smooth free movement of parts, there are good choices out there and less expensive. there is a teflon paste in a tube that can be found cheaply online. a teflon grease we used at GM, comes in a little paint can,(dont lick your fingers), or at FORD we had a specific caliper lube. equivalents can be had in sprays too. they dont contain aluminum filings like antiseize. in a pinch vaseline is the same as the trans lube the builders use for automatics. you just cant use it where petroleum is going to degrade the plastics or the neoprene or natural rubber. another thought is silicone dielectric. FORD uses it on bushings and caliper slides.
Fair enough, use what ever you see fit in your shifter assembly. The creator of the kit used anti-seize, has suggested it to all his customers, and nobody has had any issues including me. My shifter is so slick it makes me smile all the time. The anti-seize seems to be doing great in my situation. Would a white Lithium or Moly work? Yep, it isn't really a hostile envirinment in there, just a bunch of sliding points that need a little help with friction.

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