190e Leaking Coolant From this..... - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 10:08 AM
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Question 190e Leaking Coolant From this.....

Vehicle: 1991 Mercedes 190E 2.3

The engine is always running hot (halfway between 80 and 120 mark -- normally it is at 80). I checked the coolant level and it was near empty. I brought the car into my home garage to check for leaks and crawling around underneath the radiator area / fanbelt area i saw this:





The leak appears to be coming from the red arrow area, a small tube hole. How weird. Did some tube fall off / get pulled off?

What is that area and how the heck do i properly plug it up, that is if there is a missing tube where do i connect it back?

NOTE: Normally the vehicle has a large plastic shield beneath the entire front area to block the road debris from the radiator, fan, engine, etc. This shield was removed a couple months back and forgotten to be replaced.


As always THANK YOU for the education.
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#2 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 10:36 AM
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That appears to be the weep hole for the water pump, it's letting you know that the internal seal has failed (absent the weep hole the hot coolant would instead very quickly flush the lubricant from the bearing, causing it to seize, and perhaps catastrophically.

Replace the pump, that's your solution.

Good luck.

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#3 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 10:43 AM
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It came from the factory with a rubber hose connected to that fitting and it pointed down to the plastic pan.
Your water pump seal is leaking and needs to be replaced. It's easy on the 2.3.

Good luck,

Dave
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#4 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 04:11 PM
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Question

Whew, thanks so much guys.

So to be clear the weep hole is fine being open however the issue is with the water pump seal.

Do i need to replace the entire water pump or do i replace the seal of the water pump?

Thanks so much.
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#5 (permalink) Old 01-09-2013, 06:34 PM
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No, only replacing the seal is necessary, but while its out, do check the water pump for any play or bearing noise. Might as well replace it while you have it out, then have to take everything apart again to replace that.

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#6 (permalink) Old 01-10-2013, 03:00 AM
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Consider a new belt and tensioner assy while everythings apart. I've never had good luck reusing the tensioner.
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#7 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 01:38 AM
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new pump. and only new pump. there has to be a vent between the bearing and the shaft bushing . the shaft is supported on each end and allowed to be spun on the bearing and bushing. the coolant seal weeps on every pump to lubricate the lip seal. hence, (weep hole) the field term for this vent hole. it should not drip and keep dripping. also, if there was no vent, the pressure from the shaft cavity would push against and eventually overcome the seal. the bearing allows the shaft to be loaded by accessories and resulting belt tension. the bushing guides and supports the other end of the shaft. And when u r through, put the lower cover back on so the air will cool the radiator and not get under, up and in. this is your MOTHER!!!!!
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 04:40 AM
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I agree that you are looking at a seal failure (leakage from the lower vent from the pump bearing housing) which will lead to a loss of the pump. If you do not replace the pump now, that little leak will become a torrent of coolant. That's the pump's way of saying "I quit" by making a huge mess before you overheat your motor.

The entire pump has to be replaced. Go to the dealer with the old one (as a core replacement) and buy a new one or a rebuild. There may or may not be a kit needed for fittings depending on your model year.

Remove the fan shroud, serpentine belt, fan, bypass hose, upper radiator hose and the bolts that attach the pump to the engine front cover. Replace the pump and reinstall everything in reverse order. I use a gasket and a compound to ensure a seal between the pump and the engine front cover though I know many owners use no compound.

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#9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lomtevas View Post
I agree that you are looking at a seal failure (leakage from the lower vent from the pump bearing housing) which will lead to a loss of the pump. If you do not replace the pump now, that little leak will become a torrent of coolant. That's the pump's way of saying "I quit" by making a huge mess before you overheat your motor.

The entire pump has to be replaced. Go to the dealer with the old one (as a core replacement) and buy a new one or a rebuild. There may or may not be a kit needed for fittings depending on your model year.

Remove the fan shroud, serpentine belt, fan, bypass hose, upper radiator hose and the bolts that attach the pump to the engine front cover. Replace the pump and reinstall everything in reverse order. I use a gasket and a compound to ensure a seal between the pump and the engine front cover though I know many owners use no compound.

this guy will always say buy dealer parts!
well do not do it!
Unless you have 16v its NOT WORTH IT!
IMO buy from
Autohausaz.com

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#10 (permalink) Old 04-15-2013, 09:18 AM
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Or you can order from parts.com which sells OEM dealer parts at discounted prices sometimes cheaper than other websites.
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