Help with timing 93 190e 2.3L 8v - Mercedes-Benz Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 02:41 PM
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Help with timing 93 190e 2.3L 8v

Sup guys. Im tryn to do the timing on my car but i can figure it out. I have a 1993 190e 2.3L 8 valve auto transmission and i need to adjust my ignition timming from the crankshaft.

You have the timing cover pointer thats on the engine block and TDC is 0 then you have the round notch that comes out of the vibration damper beside it to the right if your standing infront of the car look at the engine. Heres the part that confuses me and where i need help. The specs call for 8-12 degrees BTDC. Thats means before top dead center i know that. And i know the engine turns clockwise also if your standing at the front looking at the engine. The number on the vibration damper only goes to 8.

example: ( 0|2|0|1|0| 0|1|* 0|1|0|2|0|3|0|4|0|5|0|6|0|7|0|8|0|
^ ^
TDC Thats round notch that comes out

So how do i get it between 8-12. I know its a dumb question but im not a mechanic and i want to learn so i can save money. I can do the work its just ignition timing is all new to me cause ive never had to figure this part out.

What wold be the proper way to do the igintion timing from step 1 to complete. If anyone could help me that would be great.

Last edited by THIS_GUY; 04-02-2011 at 09:33 PM.
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#2 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 02:49 PM
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I'm not sure what your goal is but the ignition timing on your 93 is not adjustable. Its determined by the EZL ignition module on the driver's inner fender by reading the crank angle sensor at the back of the engine. The most you can really do is determine if the system is faulty due to a bad sensor or EZL fault. Does the engine have any symptoms?


87 300D turbo + 5spd
93 190e 2.3 + Megasquirt 1
92 190e 2.6 5spd + Megasquirt 2
97 E300 DIESEL
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#3 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 02:54 PM
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Apologies to OP but my question is related.

So is this lack of adjustability why when I move the distributor on my 91, that there is no discernable difference in running condition at idle in park?

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#4 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 03:12 PM
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^^^ Yes
EZL uses mechanical distribution and electronic timing control.


87 300D turbo + 5spd
93 190e 2.3 + Megasquirt 1
92 190e 2.6 5spd + Megasquirt 2
97 E300 DIESEL
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 03:26 PM
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I know that the ingnition control valve cannot be adjusted cause its a electronically adjusted but u can adjust the timing. I just installed a new distributor and lost my marks when i loosend the retaining bolt and removed the distributor. I aslo need to adjust the timing from the crankshaft 8-12 degees and make sure my distributor rotor tip is pointing toward notch (arrow) in distributor body rim cause thats were it marks for spark plug wire #1. By turning the crankshaft i can make sure they are aglined proper but i just can figure out the 8-12 degree marks even with these Hayned s instructions cause they dont tell you how to do it. They just say refer to the specifications for the ignition timing setting at idle which are:

Ignition timing

At idle (unless otherwise indicated). with vacuum hose disconnected:

1984 (engine code 102.961 ) ................ .
=5 to 11 -degrees BTDC at 3500 rpm

1985 to 1993 (engine code 102.985) .. . .... . .
=8 to 12-degrees BTDC

1986 and 1987 16-val\l8 models (engine code 102.983)
=14 to 18-degrees BTDC

Centrifugal advance check - at
4500 rpm, with vacuum hose disconnected
=31 to 33-degrees BTDC

Vacuum advance check (total advance) - at
4500 rpm, with vacuum hose connected
=40 to 44-degrees BTDC

Spark plugs
Type.........Bosch H7DC, Beru 14k·7DU, Champion BN9Y or SN9YC
Electrode gap..............................0.8 mm (0.032 in)


Torque specifications

Bosch H7DC, Beru 14k·7DU, Champion BN9Y or SN9YC
0.8 mm (0.032 in)

Directions from the Haynes Manual for Iginition Timing Adjustments.

1. Turn the crankshaft using a socket on the pulley bolt until the timing
marks on the pulley vibration damper are accessible. Before turning the
crankshaft, disconnect the primary electrical connector at the electronic
switching unit (the smaller of the two plugs, having the green wire) (see
iIIuslration 4.3).
2. Refer to the Specifications for the ignition timing setting at idle, then
using a dab of quick-drying white paint. highlight this valve on the vibration
damper scale. Also highlight the timing cover pointer above the vibration
damper.
3. Reconnect the primary electrical connector at the electronic switching
unit and disconnect the vacuum hose at the distributor vacuum unit.
4.Start the engine and point the timing light at the scale on the vibration
damper. With the engine idl ing, the highlighted mark and pointer will appear
stationary and, if the timing is correct, will be in alignment.
5. If adjustment is necessary, loosen the distributor retaining bolt and
move the distributor body as necessary until the mark and pointer align.
tighten the retaining bolt and re-check the setting.
6. If required, the operation of the distributor centrifugal and vacuum advance
mechanisms can oe checked as follows.
7. Refer to the Specifications for the centrifugal advance check figure and the
corresponding engine speed.
8. Have an assistant run the engine at the specified speed with reference to the
tachometer in the car.
9. Point the timing light al the vibration damper scale again, and this time
the specified advance check figure on the damper scale should be aligned
with the pOinter. If this is not the case, or if the mark appears to "jump" erratically
then the mechanism is worn or otherwise faulty and anew distributor
will be required.

Last edited by THIS_GUY; 04-02-2011 at 03:37 PM.
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#6 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 03:35 PM
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I know my timing is out because i have been playing with it trying to figure this 8-12 degrees thing. My car idle is a bit high and has a hesitation when u start it. Also my spark plugs have carbon build up on them. I just installed new ones from the dealsership and they have serious carbon build up that is caused by faulty igintion system or timing that is out. What happens is if the timing is off the fuel thats in the cylinder doesnt completely burn by the time its back up and it creates carbon build up which i have. When i put it into reverse or drive it also boggs down cause of the timing. I have proper amount of tranny fluid in it. New OVP replay, all new vacuum line, they are all connected and the tranny vacuum line is connected with new line so no leaks. New fuel filter and plugs. And many more new parts. It all leads back to the timing cause all other tests that were perform passed and were replaced if didnt. So if i can figure this out so i dont have to go to the dealership that would be awesome.
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#7 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 03:57 PM
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Adjusting the angle of the distributor will not change ignition timing. This angle is not critical. The engine either runs or it doesn't run if the angle is way of. The spark timing is determined inside EZL by a combination of RPM, manifold pressure and temperature. Your fowled spark plugs can be caused by any number of issues including spark timing but this could be because of a bad vac hose to the EZL or a bad temp sensor. The crank sensor is also non adjustable. I would recommend ditching the Haynes manual and using the mercedes service manual instead.
Untitled Document
The "Electrical System Engine" file details your M102 engine EZL ignition.
good luck


87 300D turbo + 5spd
93 190e 2.3 + Megasquirt 1
92 190e 2.6 5spd + Megasquirt 2
97 E300 DIESEL
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 08:36 PM
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Adjusting the angle of the distributor by small movements make big changes! If I remember correctly, counterclockwise advances the timing and clockwise retards it (forgive me for not remembering for sure). Once adjusted. Having the timing mark on the pulley falls compared to the degree tab on the front of the engine. The ignition timing is correct if the two are lined up perfectly. You must adjust the ignition timing if they are not lined up. Your distributor timing is critical when the key is turned. Thats what allows resistance for the spark plug in piston 1 to fire correctly and on time.

The distributor is the nerve center of the mechanical ignition system and has two tasks to perform. First, it is responsible for triggering the ignition coil to generate a spark at the precise instant that it is required (which varies depending how fast the engine is turning and how much load it is under). Second, the distributor is responsible for directing that spark to the proper cylinder (which is why it is called a distributor)

The purpose of the ignition system is to create a spark that will ignite the fuel-air mixture in the cylinder of an engine. It must do this at exactly the right instant and do it at the rate of up to several thousand times per minute for each cylinder in the engine. If the timing of that spark is off by a small fraction of a second, the engine will run poorly or not run at all.

Ignition Timing is set by loosening a hold-down screw and rotating the body of the distributor. Since the spark is triggered at the exact instant that the points begin to open, rotating the distributor body (which the points are mounted on) will change the relationship between the position of the points and the position of the distributor cam, which is on the shaft that is geared to the engine rotation.

While setting the initial, or base timing is important, for an engine to run properly, the timing needs to change depending on the speed of the engine and the load that it is under. If we can move the plate that the points are mounted on, or we could change the position of the distributor cam in relation to the gear that drives it, we can alter the timing dynamically to suit the needs of the engine

When the spark plug fires in the combustion chamber, it ignites whatever fuel and air mixture is present at the tip of the spark plug. The fuel that surrounds the tip is ignited by the burning that was started by the spark plug, not by the spark itself. That flame front continues to expand outward at a specific speed that is always the same, regardless of engine speed. It does not begin to push the piston down until it fills the combustion chamber and has no where else to go. In order to maximize the amount of power generated, the spark plug must fire before the piston reaches the top of the cylinder so that the burning fuel is ready to push the piston down as soon as it is at the top of its travel. The faster the engine is spinning, the earlier we have to fire the plug to produce maximum power. Fuel that is unburned due to improper timing, lean fuel or clogged air filter causes too hot or carbon build up on spark plugs.

Last edited by THIS_GUY; 04-02-2011 at 09:28 PM.
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 08:45 PM
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Im using a series of different books and manuals. Haynes, w201 Cd from Mercedes Benz. Still doesnt tell me how to get the degrees to where i need them. Ive looked through the whole thing many times and its so vauge about it that its no help. Im at the point where i need someone who has done it before to walk me through it or just take it to Mercedes and burn a hole in my pocket. I appreciate the help.
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#10 (permalink) Old 04-02-2011, 10:04 PM
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Page 56

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o.../PDF/30010.pdf


87 300D turbo + 5spd
93 190e 2.3 + Megasquirt 1
92 190e 2.6 5spd + Megasquirt 2
97 E300 DIESEL

Last edited by tjts1; 04-02-2011 at 10:07 PM.
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