2003 A-Class wont start - Benzworld.org

jn_nz · 06-14-2006, 08:52 PM

Help! Having trouble strarting the car. I first had this problem about a month ago. Started the car.. backed it out of the garage then turned it off. Hopped in 10 mins later couldn't start it back up.
All the dash lights came on and the was a quiet 'whirring' noise that only starts when the key is turned all the way to start the engine (not just at position 2) and stops when the key is released frmo the start position.
The engine doesn't even try to turn over. Waited 10 more minutes and the car started fine.
Problem has now happened again. We've only been able to start the car once in the last few days (and turned it right off to test it but it didn't start again). Tried a new battery just in case but that wasn't the problem.
Any ideas? Car is just out of warranty too! Is the the ECU/Air mass sensor problem people are talking about? Any help would be great!

cjawahir · 06-22-2006, 07:35 PM

hi, this look like the starter motor problem. the starter motor is diffucult to remove, you have to lower the engine in order to get the starter out .

cj

mikenco · 03-27-2008, 03:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jn_nz

Help! Having trouble strarting the car. I first had this problem about a month ago. Started the car.. backed it out of the garage then turned it off. Hopped in 10 mins later couldn't start it back up.
All the dash lights came on and the was a quiet 'whirring' noise that only starts when the key is turned all the way to start the engine (not just at position 2) and stops when the key is released frmo the start position.
The engine doesn't even try to turn over. Waited 10 more minutes and the car started fine.
Problem has now happened again. We've only been able to start the car once in the last few days (and turned it right off to test it but it didn't start again). Tried a new battery just in case but that wasn't the problem.
Any ideas? Car is just out of warranty too! Is the the ECU/Air mass sensor problem people are talking about? Any help would be great!

We are having exactly the same problem as described here.. it would usually start after 10 mins, but now it is getting worse.

I can bump start it if it is parked on a hill.. so, I assume it's the starter motor.

Anyone got any ideas before I have to call in the big guns (big bill!

)

Mike

lofty · 03-27-2008, 03:08 PM

In both cases it does sound like starter problems, & yes you will have to lower the engine at least to replace the starter, even then space is very tight.
Also make sure you get the correct starter for your car I understand there are two types one with a built in immobiliser one without the last thing you want is to fit the wrong one. Mileage is important when you are talking starter motor problems, the ring gear wear at certain places on the toothed ring which is attached to the flywheel if this is badly worn it will need replacing and this does mean the engine has to right out of the car and the engine split from the gearbox, I suspect these days you would then replace the flywheel complete with the starter ring gear, in days past we replaced just the ring which was expanded by heat and then dropped onto the flywheel allowed to cool it was fixed for the duration .

In the case of the car with just the whirring this sounds as though that is the problem however on a manual car this can be checked by putting the car in gear moving it 18" inches or so (Ignition Off) which turns the flywheel as the car is moved, then if the car starts on the starter it shows that where the flywheel was positioned the ring gear is badly worn
Where there is no sound from the starter this is usually the starter motor rather than the ring gear.
It is possible to inspect the ring gear with just the starter removed.
However turning an engine over with plugs in is semi difficult so if you intend doing this take the plugs out you will then be able to turn the engine over no problem and inspect the complete ring by turning the engine over .

I'm not a mechanic I just know what I've done and encountered in my lifetime, so if there are skilled mechanics out there who know there stuff please add you bit,

Top tip if you are having to remove the engine complete consider having the clutch and poly V belt replaced at the same time, this will save you having to take the engine out again when you reach the end of the clutches life, and it will work out cheaper in the long term if you intend keeping the car.
Good luck to you both. See my page 58 for manual clutch & page 66 for starter.
lofty sorry it's so long but you did ask!

mikenco · 04-01-2008, 05:24 PM

Hello

Thank you for the response, however, it was NOT the starter motor in the end.

After I posted my previous message, In my frustration, I walked down to our local Motor Factors and bought a new battery however, this did NOT change the starting issue. At least the new battery ruled out that, so I thought.

I sought advice from our local garage and fortunately it did it's 'thing' right outside the garage. He said it was not likely to be the starter as it (the starter) was not making any noise at all. He said it looks more likely that it is the switch in the ignition barrel or the wiring to the starter. He gave me a bump start and off I went on a long drive to my head office approx 75 miles away..

A small note, as I swapped over the batteries, I left a battery charger connected to the cars leads in the hope that I'd not lose my radio code.

Anyway. Later that day, when I left the head office office to come home, (half expecting to have the bump start it again), I thought back to what the guy in the garage had said about a dodgy connection in the ignition barrel. So, when I turned the key this time, I LIFTED the key physically within the hole and lo-and-behold it started on the nail.

I was now convinced that it was a bad connection in the barrel at fault and headed home.

When I got home, I turned off the engine and tried to start it normally, NOT lifting the barrel, just doing it normally. It fired up perfectly!.. I turned it off and on again a few times. Absolutely fine! Perhaps I'd moved something within the barrel and the connection was now reconnected??? (for now).

SO.. what I THINK happened during the previous problems is that the old battery had lost it's capacity (strenght and power) and everytime we tried to start it, the drop in current caused the ECU or computer to turn off momentarily, which in turn caused the immobiliser to activate.

This problem wasn't resolved until the new battery was fitted and the car driven for some time.

Something to support this theory is to note since, that the doors no longer lock themselves when I drive off (I guess the ECU has been reprogrammed?).

The thing has been absolutley FINE ever since, apart from the door locking issue, but I can live with that!

Oh, also as it transpires, my radio has no code anyway, just the pull-off front. So I think the battery charger idea didn't have any effect.

SO, in conclusion. If you are having trouble with an earlier A-class and the bloody thing won't start even though the battery 'seems' ok. Replace it anyway. £59 for a brand new AC Delco replacement and then go a for a LONG drive!

It worked for me.. finally

p.s. If you have the same issue and this doesn't work for you, try man-handling the ignition barrel 'upwards as you turn the key. To be honest, I still haven't discounted that my issue may have been an electrical connection issue. I'll report back here if there is anything new to report

mikenco · 04-01-2008, 05:29 PM

BTW Lofty, our car has only done 24k miles.. I'd be horrified it HAD been the starter!

mikenco · 04-01-2008, 05:33 PM

jn_nz "a quiet 'whirring' noise"?

Is very likely to be the fuel pump. Did it sound like it was coming from nearer the rear of the vehicle? I heard what I think is a similar thing, except if you keep the key held in the 'start' position, after a few seconds, you'll begin to hear a bubbling noise of the fuel being returned to the tank or air bubbling through the fuel.

lofty · 04-04-2008, 03:44 AM

mikenko, I wouldn't be too impressed either.
It's a job to read and get any sense of how loud this noise is, there is wee fan in the interior light, part of the gloryfied air conditiong system, that can get noisy but is normally only heard when the engine not running but with the ignition switched on, a spot of light oil and a clean of the fan blades and that's sorts it.

mikenco · 04-04-2008, 07:22 AM

Our model doesn't have AC, it's just the 140 classic. Anyway, hopefully, someone else will find this page useful, hence my updates.

It's been absolutely fine since, so I am pretty convinced that it was the battery causing our issue.

Noels · 04-25-2008, 02:43 PM

I had a similar problem with my A210 not starting, took it to MB garage, firstly they said it was the battery, two weeks later same problem, MB garage did diagnostic check and said it was fuel pump and fuel line injectors, a week later same problem. MB garage had it in for over a week, asked for technical support from Milton Keynes, who said they hadn't a clue. Doncaster MB then told me it was the crank shaft position sensor. All in all £1544.73 later, not a happy bunny. Surely all of these can't go wrong at the same time !!