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2007 ML320-CDI Transmission issue (with video)

5K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  zemun1234 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone,

Been a lurker forever; have a 2007 ML320CDI that I've owned for 3-4 years (acquired ~80K) and now up to 205K. Took it in to dealership a few weeks ago for two minor items (alignment and belt tensioner replacement - it was getting loud for a few weeks). Long story short then noticed my Fan on HIGH after picking up the vehicle (it has been a very cold winter in Michigan and with belt tensioner squeaking I didn't notice). After diagnosis, said bad reading on transmission, lets do a transmission fluid change then drive it, but might need a transmission replacement.

Long story short, took 3 day weekend and a 600 mile road trip. Drive down vehicle worked without any issues, upon starting home today, entire time I could not do more than 10-20% throttle to accelerate, anything else it would not accelerate at all and only maintain speed. Let's just say merging on interstates at 35-40 MPH isn't fun (takes about a minute to hit 75). Within 10 miles of my house, I took the following YouTube Video of me giving the throttle 50%, 100% and a kick down full (all without lifting off the throttle); as you can see the vehicle does not speed up at all. I'm 90% sure I'm buying a new transmission, but figured to see if ANYONE else has experienced this same issue and it was something else?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxpVprgo1wc&feature=youtu.be

Thanks,
--Ted
 
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#2 ·
Hi everyone,

Been a lurker forever; have a 2007 ML320CDI that I've owned for about 3, years acquired ~80K and now up to 205K. Took it in to dealership a month ago for two minor items (alignment and belt tensioner replacement - it was getting loud for a few weeks). Long story short then noticed my Fan on HIGH after picking up the vehicle (it has been a very cold winter in Michigan and with belt tensioner squeaking I didn't notice). After diagnosis, said bad reading on transmission, lets do a transmission fluid change then drive it, but might need a transmission replacement.

Long story short, took 3 day weekend and a 600 mile road trip. Drive down vehicle worked without any issues, upon starting home today, entire time I could not do more than 10-20% throttle to accelerate, anything else it would not accelerate at all and only maintain speed. Let's just saw merging on interstates at 35-40 MPH isn't fun (take about another minute to hit 75). Within 10 miles of my house, I took the following YouTube Video of me giving the vehicle 50%, 100% and kick down throttle (all without lifting the throttle) and as you can see the vehicle does not speed up at all. I'm 90% sure I'm buying a new transmission, but figured to see if ANYONE else has experienced this same issue and it was something else?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxpVprgo1wc&feature=youtu.be

Thanks,
--Ted
Did it throw any codes? Sounds like "limp mode" What about rebuilding or repairing ur trans if that what it needs?
I'm curious as to your maintenance schedule to get to 200k miles. Did you just follow the 10k schedule? I'd like to go for 200k myself.
 
#6 ·
One big question, no end user dash LIMP mode error message(s)?
I have not scanned the ODB for codes it was 5 hour drive getting home last night - just wanted to have dinner and decompress - deal with it today. I did get a popup (red TEMP to 120C) on the display 5 minutes from home (which surprised me, stuck thermostat?).

Towards 200K: Air and Fuel filters every ~40-50k, I do about 90% highway, set cruise at 77 usually - nothing else crazy (I tow a small 1500lb boat a few times a year), oil every 10-13k (I do it about 75% of the time with the Amazon Link - Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator )

I figured to drive it until it starts rusting and so far the paint has held up great! My only issue externally is the laminate clear plastic over the black lower strip of the window seals, that all has 1/2 way peeled off (It's only cosmetic).

Thanks everyone I'll discuss the valve body and EGR valve sticking points with my local dealer.
 
#4 ·
Probably EGR valve sticking.
 
#7 ·
I got no dash message about limp mode. P2004 and P2005 swirl motor open, with a CEL on second start. Limp mode cuts out the turbo and doesn't let the transmission downshift on throtle request.

You just need to know what put you in limp mode. Cam sensor? or?
 
#9 ·
Well then did I go into limp mode? I could downshift anytime i wanted by throttle (as seen in the youtube video I posted above). I just had no ponies to push the car, it felt like it was only maintaining idle at the higher RPM's. Upon starting the car Monday night to take to dealership, it drove fine, though it hit about 100C on the H2O temp within 5 minutes on a short 15 minute drive.
 
#10 ·
I bet on swirl motor ...I got same (similar) problem a few months back and I disconnected swirl motor and put resistor instead (to tell unit 'everything is OK). Don't buy solution on Ebay for 100 $ or so due to the fix is going cost you 0.05$ :thumbsup:

It is important that you fix problem sooner than later due to swirl motor could stop in close position. In that case, the replacement is only option.

I drove 7000 km after and I have to admit that car is running better than with correct swirl motor. If I ever buy MB, it is going be my first modification.
 
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