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ML350 Oil Change Procedure

85K views 36 replies 24 participants last post by  lhwillissr 
#1 ·
I did it today, piece of cake. I made a detailed procedure and you can find it here.

I have also posted the link in the DIY sticky for easy reference.
 
#2 ·
Oh my god is that Paul W from AUDIPAGES

You were my god a few years ago when I owned my 99 A8. You are driving a MB now. Thanks for the detailed oil change procedure...Looking forward to your posts.
 
#11 ·
great, that is the best instructions for oil change and filter so far. thanks.

can you also recommend a place to purchase the suction tool??? and the price for it. I mean the price for filter, oil, and suction tool altogether.

my other question is, do we need other to be check??? I want to save some money but I want to make sure that it wouldn't cause any trouble too. thanks.
 
#12 ·
I bought the Mightyvac on ebay, about $60 shipped. I got the filters for $15 each when purchasing them from German Filters - OEM Filters for Audi VW Mercedes BMW Porsche Volvo

The oil is going to be $40-60 depending on size of the container and what type. So in the end, I spent about $120 on my first oil change, the dealer charges $125 plus tax, but they would of charged $379 for the "service C" which is basically an oil change (they do beep your horn though).

The next three oil changes (39K miles) will be about $40-50 each, the cost for the oil as I already have the filters. And I know it will get done to my satisfaction.
 
#15 ·
Very nice job on the instructions. The dealers in my area (NY/NJ) are asking for $240 to do the schedule A service. The way I understand it all it is an oil change with oiled door hinges and fluid level check.
How did you go about resetting the message on the dash? At this point mine is still counting down, but I have a feeling it will get real annoying if I don't reset it after the oil change is complete.
 
#32 · (Edited)
Anyone know the torque spec for the oil pan drain bolt?
I don't want to over tighten which could strip the thread. Thanks.
 
#18 ·
First ever posting today!!! great site and exactly what I was looking for - oil change on my 2009 ML350. My husband has always done our oil changes for all our cars including his 2001 Boxster. My question is this - knowing my husband is more than capable, can we do an oil change by draining out the pan rather than the suction method? Any suggestions, ideas, comments as to why yes or no for either method/difficulty/reason to do either one? Any help would be appreciated. Our dealer will tell us nothing!!!! Duh, wonder why!
 
#19 ·
Certainly can be done from underneath. However there is a cover to remove to get to the oilpan and takes much more time than doing it from above. Also the drain plug has a 'one use' crush washer on it so make sure to have new ones on hand. They are cheap
 
#21 ·
Vernl - thank you so much for the quick reply. My husband's concern is if the oil is never drained from the bottom, that "gunk" build up over time may be a problem if it is never sucked out via the other method.

The "go-fer" here is going to ask a few more questions - is the cover just time consuming to remove rather than difficult and then, the question the dealer won't answer - where underneath is the oil drain plug located? I assume that would probably be obvious to determine once the cover is removed but, ya' never know!
 
#23 ·
Let me set this straight real quick, there is NO SUCH THING as GUNK at the bottom of ANY oil pan from ANY car running "Properly rated synthetics"!

For one it is impossible since synthetic oils DO NOT contain molecule chains that break down into "gunk" as you describe it.

Secondly the wear metals generated by these engines are so small that they CANNOT settle out of suspension from the oil! Wear metals in general are less than 1 micron in size and as small as 50 nanometers.

If you have ANYTHING at the bottom of your sump in ANY Mercedes running appropriate MB rated oils you would have had to suffer a catastrophic engine failure in which case the oil change is the least of your worries.
 
#22 ·
Paul S8 - Oh, that my Paul did not think he needed to be under the car.......old school, concerned with gunk build up if old oil is not drained from the bottom......can you guess - we disagree that if so many other cars are oil changed via suction......and I hate driving the cars up on the ramps!!!! Scares me silly. Anyway, I can't complain. Our cars are in mint condition all the time and I am thankful for that!

Should "we" be concerned with gunk? Over-thinking the process? Over engineering? Engineer wife's nightmare?
 
#26 ·
Vernl and everyone else who responded -
Thanks a million. All your posts with all the information and advice have convinced my husband to change his ways. Seriously! I never thought it would happen!

Now we are researching a suction vac. From other posts it looks like maybe the mityvac 7201, big volume size may be the one he chooses.

I am forever grateful! :bowdown:
 
#27 · (Edited)
This is what you need:
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Connect to an air compressor and it will suction out the motor.

It's a few more $ than a hand pump but worth every penny for the at home DIY'fer

As suggested remove the oil filter first, the residual oil will drain back to the sump. Using the suction tool below, suction out the oil to coolant heat exchanger (Oil cooler), this will allow a nearly 100% removal of all the oil in the motor. When completed install the new oil filter and new o-rings (that come with the filter) and suction the sump out.

Make sure the engine is at operating temperature which will speed up the extraction.

You can do all your fluid changes on the MB with this EXCEPT BRAKE FLUID! Transmission, Engine etc.
 

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