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Old 09-29-2009, 12:44 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Vernl - thank you so much for the quick reply. My husband's concern is if the oil is never drained from the bottom, that "gunk" build up over time may be a problem if it is never sucked out via the other method.

The "go-fer" here is going to ask a few more questions - is the cover just time consuming to remove rather than difficult and then, the question the dealer won't answer - where underneath is the oil drain plug located? I assume that would probably be obvious to determine once the cover is removed but, ya' never know!
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Paul S8 - Oh, that my Paul did not think he needed to be under the car.......old school, concerned with gunk build up if old oil is not drained from the bottom......can you guess - we disagree that if so many other cars are oil changed via suction......and I hate driving the cars up on the ramps!!!! Scares me silly. Anyway, I can't complain. Our cars are in mint condition all the time and I am thankful for that!

Should "we" be concerned with gunk? Over-thinking the process? Over engineering? Engineer wife's nightmare?
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:42 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NEWBIEBENZ View Post
Vernl - thank you so much for the quick reply. My husband's concern is if the oil is never drained from the bottom, that "gunk" build up over time may be a problem if it is never sucked out via the other method.

The "go-fer" here is going to ask a few more questions - is the cover just time consuming to remove rather than difficult and then, the question the dealer won't answer - where underneath is the oil drain plug located? I assume that would probably be obvious to determine once the cover is removed but, ya' never know!
Let me set this straight real quick, there is NO SUCH THING as GUNK at the bottom of ANY oil pan from ANY car running "Properly rated synthetics"!

For one it is impossible since synthetic oils DO NOT contain molecule chains that break down into "gunk" as you describe it.

Secondly the wear metals generated by these engines are so small that they CANNOT settle out of suspension from the oil! Wear metals in general are less than 1 micron in size and as small as 50 nanometers.

If you have ANYTHING at the bottom of your sump in ANY Mercedes running appropriate MB rated oils you would have had to suffer a catastrophic engine failure in which case the oil change is the least of your worries.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:49 PM   #24 (permalink)
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drivbiwire - thanks a million for the info and insight! You veterans are awesome! I will gratefully pass on this info. Again, thanks!!!!!
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Old 09-29-2009, 05:33 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by NEWBIEBENZ View Post
Vernl - thank you so much for the quick reply. My husband's concern is if the oil is never drained from the bottom, that "gunk" build up over time may be a problem if it is never sucked out via the other method.

The "go-fer" here is going to ask a few more questions - is the cover just time consuming to remove rather than difficult and then, the question the dealer won't answer - where underneath is the oil drain plug located? I assume that would probably be obvious to determine once the cover is removed but, ya' never know!
The design of MB vehicles for many years uses dipstick placement and oil pan shape/design to allow for all the oil to be ''evacuated" with a suction pump.One word of advice though..the filter has a series of o-rings on it which allow it to hold oil in it....before you actually ''evacuate' the oil...make sure you unscrew the filter to allow it to drain down. They have been doing it that way now for many years at the dealerships so its safe to assume that the procedure works for the do it yourself folks. Modern engine design and using MB spec oils along with on time oil changes virtually eliminate any sludge being formed. There are folks on here who have posted on the subject that to satisfy curiosity they actually pulled the drain after using the ''evacuation'' method and found the pan to be dry.As I understand it...although not having done it myself...the bottom cover is both time consuming and bit of a pain to deal with from hearing folks here speak of it and the drain plug is easy to spot on the pan once the cover is off.
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:16 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Vernl and everyone else who responded -
Thanks a million. All your posts with all the information and advice have convinced my husband to change his ways. Seriously! I never thought it would happen!

Now we are researching a suction vac. From other posts it looks like maybe the mityvac 7201, big volume size may be the one he chooses.

I am forever grateful!
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:52 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Vernl and everyone else who responded -
Thanks a million. All your posts with all the information and advice have convinced my husband to change his ways. Seriously! I never thought it would happen!

Now we are researching a suction vac. From other posts it looks like maybe the mityvac 7201, big volume size may be the one he chooses.

I am forever grateful!
This is what you need:
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Connect to an air compressor and it will suction out the motor.

It's a few more $ than a hand pump but worth every penny for the at home DIY'fer

As suggested remove the oil filter first, the residual oil will drain back to the sump. Using the suction tool below, suction out the oil to coolant heat exchanger (Oil cooler), this will allow a nearly 100% removal of all the oil in the motor. When completed install the new oil filter and new o-rings (that come with the filter) and suction the sump out.

Make sure the engine is at operating temperature which will speed up the extraction.

You can do all your fluid changes on the MB with this EXCEPT BRAKE FLUID! Transmission, Engine etc.
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Last edited by drivbiwire; 09-30-2009 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:06 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Do I fill in the oil from the dip stick when suction is done?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul S8 ML350 View Post
I did it today, piece of cake. I made a detailed procedure and you can find it here.

I have also posted the link in the DIY sticky for easy reference.


Do I fill in the oil from the dip stick when suction is done?
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Old 12-17-2009, 10:44 AM   #29 (permalink)
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You can but the easy way is the traditional way of adding from the top.
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Old 06-06-2011, 08:58 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul S8 ML350 View Post
I did it today, piece of cake. I made a detailed procedure and you can find it here.

I have also posted the link in the DIY sticky for easy reference.
I followed your link and DIY instructions were great and I was able to change the oil of ML350 without a hitch using the Mityvac...thanks for the info!
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