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Im wondering if there is an inline adapter[dont like the idea of bypassing by cutting and splicing] to charge the relay continuously to the halogens to allow their use again when on high beam and flash to pass.
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Well...
The relay activation circuit is wired directly to the low beam wire. It is a normally closed relay, and when activated, opens the switched circuit. The wiring for the halogen high beam is the switched circuit, and so when the relay is energized, it is shut off.
So...
You don't want to energize the relay all the time, you want it to NOT be energized.
You can't do this with an inline adapter.
If you don't like cutting and splicing, but you don't mind cutting, just cut the wire going to the relay, at the connector that goes into the headlight. Cutting it at the connector would solve several issues:
1) No new insulation required. No tape, no tubing, no nothing, because you've not touched an energized wire that is in the light housing
2) Even if you use Drew's "cut & splice" method, your relay still activates when the low beams are on, thus increasing current draw. This relay is possibly why two ground wires are needed with the newer headlights. Dunno, the older headlights had three 55-watt bulbs with only one ground wire. Even if you use the cut & splice method, it might be a good idea to cut the wire to the relay
3) You can return your headlights to factory condition by removing the pin from the connector, and recrimping the relay wire. Thus if you ever sold the headlights later, you wouldn't need to worry about selling a modified part (two concerns with selling a modified part are lower resale value and legal liabilities)
You could always just install a set of Euro-spec bixenons ($800 + shipping) and this would solve your issue as well.
I will have my write-up on modifying US-spec lights in this manner as soon as I get my hands on a pair; it will accompany my write-up on modifying Euro-spec lights.
-s-
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