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Busy weekend...

2K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  jdbower 
#1 ·
I was busy this weekend (and I won't mention working all day on Saturday[:(]). I installed the LED brake lights and turn signals from www.formymercedes.com (http://www.formymercedes.com/mb_res...&class=m-class&category=LED+Replacement+Bulbs). Maybe at some point I’ll order the brake/parking lights to round out the set (although I may run into the same problem Birger ran into). Contrary to popular belief, you can install the front turn signals without removing the headlamps assembly, but you have to be flexible and have a high pain tolerance (I’d make an off-color comment about looking for a date with the same qualities, but it’s a little too disturbing [:0]!). I’d post pics of the installation process, but it’s already been covered here:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/messages.asp?messno=28033&id=21

My only problem is that when I have both front and rear turn signals installed I still get a fast blink even with the load resistor installed. I get a normal blink with just one side installed and with the load resistor, but fast blink with one set and no load resistor (so I know that the resistor is installed properly). I’ll try out the fast turn signals for a while since they still function, the only problem is that tapping the turn signal now does four fast blinks and loses a little usefulness. Worst case I can install a second load resistor. I'd like to send a special thanks to Jerry at ForMyMercedes.com and (indirectly) Drew for trying to help me out with this problem. Jerry never sleeps!

I was playing around and found out the following:
1. You can install the mono-intensity amber bulb in the front. To troubleshoot turn your headlights on, if the turn signals are on at the same time you’ve got the wrong bulb.
2. You can also install the front bulb in backwards. To trouble shoot this, turn your headlights on at the same time as your turn signal. If the turn signal is noticeable, you’re OK. If the bulb is stuck in high intensity mode you should reverse it (rotate 180 degrees).
3. You should remove your headlights first! See this:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/messages.asp?messno=13538&id=21

What’s more interesting is what I can’t take a picture of because I need a real camera that has controls so I can take pictures in the dark. What you can’t see is a trio of orange LEDs that I installed in the passenger footwell (and, in the process, rewired my tire pressure monitoring system so it looks neater). They provide just a touch of ambient light, like the light under the mirror. I got the idea from a post by Drew a long time ago (sorry, the older pictures don’t come out so well due to the change in the site URL):
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/messages.asp?messno=19100&id=21


It’s very subtle, but I like it. When I get the chance, I may do the driver’s side.
 
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#2 ·
Several points...

Maybe at some point I’ll order the brake/parking lights to round out the set (although I may run into the same problem Birger ran into).
No, you won't. Birger deactivated his incandescent 3rd brake light and wired in something else that was LED based. That's why he had the problem since he doesn't have a load equaliser for that setup. With my incandescent bulb still in place with the 3rd brake light, in addition to the 20" LED strip, I have had zero problems with cruise control.

Contrary to popular belief, you can install the front turn signals without removing the headlamps assembly, but you have to be flexible and have a high pain tolerance
Heh, I don't get it though. Why would you want to do that? The HID covers get in the way and it is too easy to knock them out of position and hence cause a leak in the seal. I must have removed my headlamps 30 times by now! It takes me about 2 minutes to do each side now, which is far quicker than trying to reach behind. Additionally, I've found that trying to do that usually results in the bulb socket being not tight enough, hence allowing condensation into the headlamp.

My only problem is that when I have both front and rear turn signals installed I still get a fast blink even with the load resistor installed.
Are you using one load equaliser per side? One side for the left, and one side for the right?

I get a normal blink with just one side installed and with the load resistor, but fast blink with one set and no load resistor
I still don't get it. How are you installing these and where are you installing the load equalisers? I would <b>strongly</b> advise that you tap them off of the fronts because of the dedicated ground.

Worst case I can install a second load resistor.
You cannot install two load resistors per side. You'll end up with the computer module doing really weird things to your brake and signal lamps, and eventually you'll blow the fuse. I know from experimenting early on so that all of you wouldn't have to!

You can install the mono-intensity amber bulb in the front. To troubleshoot turn your headlights on, if the turn signals are on at the same time you’ve got the wrong bulb.
Actually you don't need to bother with this. Just look at the base of the bulb. The correct dual intensity 1157 bulb has two contact points, whereas the single 1156 only has a signal point.

You can also install the front bulb in backwards. To trouble shoot this, turn your headlights on at the same time as your turn signal. If the turn signal is noticeable, you’re OK. If the bulb is stuck in high intensity mode you should reverse it (rotate 180 degrees).
Actually, what I did was to deactivate the parking lamps altogether so that the signals flash on-off rather than bright/dim. This is FAR more noticable and how the European MLs are set up.

Hope this helps!
 
#3 ·
Re: Several points...

No, you won't. Birger deactivated his incandescent 3rd brake light and wired in something else that was LED based. That's why he had the problem since he doesn't have a load equaliser for that setup. With my incandescent bulb still in place with the 3rd brake light, in addition to the 20" LED strip, I have had zero problems with cruise control.
Forgot about that, I'll probably tack them onto my next order.

Heh, I don't get it though. Why would you want to do that?
I never said you'd WANT to...

Are you using one load equaliser per side? One side for the left, and one side for the right?
I've got one on each front turn signal. The wire I used to attach them is not live when the parking lamps are on, but are live when the turn signal is on so I'm fairly sure I've got the right ones. The other end was tested on a random screw (I did get sparks) and are now attached to a grounding lug near the headlight assemblies.

I know from experimenting early on so that all of you wouldn't have to!
And I appreciate it! I figured a lower resitance would help things but I'll nix that experiment.

Actually you don't need to bother with this. Just look at the base of the bulb.
In case someone screws up and sees the turn signal on they'll know what to do.

Actually, what I did was to deactivate the parking lamps altogether
Hmm... Is that legal? The only thing I can think of is that people wouldn't be able to see you as well when they're perpendicular to you (for instance, if you're at a stop sign and going straight or the same direction as the other car).

Hope this helps!
As usual, you're a wealth of knowledge![:D]
 
#4 ·
More answers, and a few pics...

Forgot about that, I'll probably tack them onto my next order.
You're getting the wing with the LED strip, aren't you?

I've got one on each front turn signal. The wire I used to attach them is not live when the parking lamps are on, but are live when the turn signal is on so I'm fairly sure I've got the right ones. The other end was tested on a random screw (I did get sparks) and are now attached to a grounding lug near the headlight assemblies.
Oh that's why. Don't use the grounding lug. Please wire them as such, and stick them on as I did (see the 2 pics below).





In case someone screws up and sees the turn signal on they'll know what to do.
Got it [:)]

Hmm... Is that legal? The only thing I can think of is that people wouldn't be able to see you as well when they're perpendicular to you (for instance, if you're at a stop sign and going straight or the same direction as the other car).
Canadian vehicles have daytime running lamps, so my low beams are on at all times anyway, so it doesn't make a difference at all. Note that the European MLs do not have the side markers either, but have city lamps (a project that I have not gotten to just yet). Having no silly orange markers makes the front end look aesthetically cleaner, and the on-off flashing of the turn signals are far more obvious.

See, no orange...




Heh, you're welcome [;)]

BTW, note that you will have to file down <b>ONE</b> of the little nibs at the side the bulbs for the rear signals and the rear parking lamps so that you don't have to force them in. The European style PY21W bulbs are a little different, with the nibs at different angles rather than directly across from each other as with N.American bulbs.

Did you get the 1156 red brake lamp bulbs as well?
 
#5 ·
Re: More answers, and a few pics...

You're getting the wing with the LED strip, aren't you?
You spoiled the surprise for next week! It should arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping that the OEM wing has the same holes, but something tells me it's time to pull out the ol' power drill and touch up primer.

Oh that's why. Don't use the grounding lug. Please wire them as such, and stick them on as I did
That would explain things, I'll have to try that. Is there an issue with the way it's wired now from a safety aspect? The resistors aren't hot unless the signal is blinking.
 
#6 ·
Re: Re: More answers, and a few pics...

You spoiled the surprise for next week! It should arrive tomorrow. I'm hoping that the OEM wing has the same holes, but something tells me it's time to pull out the ol' power drill and touch up primer.
Oops, should I edit my post? [:)]

Actually I am looking forward to seeing it on your vehicle! I hope you have a digicam.

Power drill, primer, and some silicon I think (hmm, actually I believe it comes with silicon and the template for ease of installation).

That would explain things, I'll have to try that. Is there an issue with the way it's wired now from a safety aspect? The resistors aren't hot unless the signal is blinking.
Not really a safety thing. If you ground using the lug there, it doesn't seem to work properly with the LED signals. It's safer to use the signal harness' dedicated ground.

The heat issue is why I stuck it onto the metal bulkhead as in my picture, so that the heat can dissipate easily. Be sure that none of the wires are touching the load equaliser's surface or the insulation could melt.
 
#7 ·
Don't bother editing...

Don't bother editing your post, hopefully I'll be able to install the wing next week. I'll be able to get some pics during the day, but the ones I took at night with the LED bulbs didn't come out (cheap digicam).

If there's no safety issue, then I'll probably rewire the turn signals later in the week if I get the chance. I think I only got two connectors (I may have lost two) so I figured ground was the way to go.

On another note, Fox is showing Lost World and they're trying to save the RV with the ML now.
 
#8 ·
It's probably...

Don't bother editing you post, hopefully I'll be able to install the wing next week. I'll be able to get some pics during the day, but the ones I took at night with the LED bulbs didn't come out (cheap digicam).
...the contrast that needs to be adjusted upwards?

If there's no safety issue, then I'll probably rewire the turn signals later in the week if I get the chance. I think I only got two connectors (I may have lost two) so I figured ground was the way to go.
You should have 4 quick connectors, 2 for each load equaliser. They are easily available at most hardware stores (or Walmart's automotive section) and sold as 3M Quick connectors.

On another note, Fox is showing Lost World and they're trying to save the RV with the ML now.
Oh thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to tape that segment tonight [:)]
 
#9 ·
Re: It's probably...

...the contrast that needs to be adjusted upwards?
Yep, cheap camera and I don't think it even has a contrast adjustment.

They are easily available at most hardware stores (or Walmart's automotive section) and sold as 3M Quick connectors.
One of the benefits of my work location is that it's right next to a Radio Shack...
 
#11 ·
Sorry, no change

I picked up some quick connects at a local car parts store yesterday and installed them last night. At first, I thought the problem was fixed for the driver's side (left turn signal), but it's a irregular. It usually blinks normally, but sometimes it will stutter. By the time I pulled into work, it was pretty consistently on fast blink mode. When I replace one of the bulbs with the stock bulb it works just fine.

Right now I've got the resistor between power and return (or data and ground, depending on what industry you're in - it's the two outside wires). I know that the connection to the data pin is OK through a continuity check from the resistor to the pin at the end of the connector. I suspect that the connection to the data is OK since the resistor gets hot when the signal is on for a few minutes (but not if just the parking lights are on). The resistance between the data and ground without the front turn signal installed is a little over 3 ohms.

Could I have confused the computer? Would yanking the appropriate fuse for a few minutes fix this? Otherwise I may just replace the front signals with the stock bulbs since they give a better range of light anyway (even if they're not as bright).
 
#12 ·
Hmm...

I picked up some quick connects at a local car parts store yesterday and installed them last night. At first, I thought the problem was fixed for the driver's side (left turn signal), but it's a irregular. It usually blinks normally, but sometimes it will stutter.
OK if it does this, it means that your quick connector connection is not tight, and the load equaliser is only getting intermittent contact with the wire harness. This is why it is not working consistently. I know because I had this problem with one of my connections, but I re-did it and it has been fine for months now.

Please make sure that the little metal "tabs" in the quick connectors are properly punching through the wire insulation of both the wire harness as well as the load equaliser's wiring.
 
#13 ·
I'm pretty sure they're installed OK

I'll replace that last connector and see if it makes a difference on the left indicator. The quick connects I picked up were a slightly different style than the ones that shipped (there's only one plastic flap and you push down the metal tab before you fold it over).

Any help for the right side? I'm about 99.9% sure that it's installed correctly and it always blinks quickly?
 
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