Diagnosed with rust - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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Diagnosed with rust

I asked two body shows and they said, we can re-pain it but there is no cure. It will come back within a year. One shop suggested replacing the entire hood. This sounds like cancer diagnosis. How are guys handling body rust?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 12:11 PM
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Diagnosed with rust

We are pretty lucky here and don't have any rust issues. At the stage it's at with yours you should be able to almost stop it. I believe the mistake most make is filling straight back over bare metal. Once the rust is ground back to bare metal it should be under coated with epoxy undercoat before any filling is started. Cutting it completely out and welding a new piece would be even better but I don't know how many shops would go to that trouble. It's all in the preparation before the top coat. If the rust goes rite through make sure you seal it that side as well after the repair.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 01:56 PM
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Lucky if that's all the rust you have


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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:16 PM
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I have rust issues under my doors. It's inherent in the vehicle right down to the chassis. It's one of the prices you pay for the vehicle. I have mine fixed every year and I check the frame for any rusted parts that may give way at a bad time and wreck your day. Good luck.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 01:36 PM
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They say that because they want you to return for future business. If you practice long enough with rattle cans, you can make a factory looking paint finish (lots of practice though!). Living here in Montreal, they dump enough salt on the roads to turn Utah's beautiful Salt Flats into just Flats. I know how to handle rust in a way it will never come back. Basically it goes like this:

1. Grind the heck out of that area to remove any rust.
2. brush on a light coat of phosphoric acid on the rust-affected spot.
3. Generous coat of self-etching primer.
4. Body filler.
5. Sand the body filler until panel is perfectly smooth (careful not to sand the self-etching primer below).
5.5. Self-etching primer again if you accidentally sanded down to the metal.
6. Primer (which ever type you prefer).
7. Base coat.
8. Clear coat.

This is my procedure for rust on visible panels. If it's invisible (like underneath the car), cut and weld! And then self-etching primer + undercoat.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 12:51 AM
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As Patman said, if it is done properly there will be no problem.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:02 AM
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The chemical reaction that creates rust requires moisture and oxygen. If you seal off the area with a few layers of paint, you can stop it from worsening while you get around to doing Patman's procedure. Exposing the rust and applying phosphoric acid first helps.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. My problem is, I have never done a body paint work before. Two body shops I talked to says there is no cure of the rust. They can sand and repaint the panels but it will come back. I don't know what to do. Am I supposed to do the rust treatment by myself and than take it to the body shop for paint?
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:50 AM
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A lot of the issues that make rust return is some fillers absorb moisture. So sealing the metal and the filler is super important. I'm not a lover of single pak under coats they won't do the job of 2 pak epoxy undercoat.But I understand not everyone has access to them so use whatever you comfortable with. I think you should give it a go, if you prep it all let them colour and top coat it. You don't have to spray your undercoats on, you can brush them on and sand them down. Using all the advice above I'm sure we can talk you through it. Keeping stone chips repaired and waxing your paint work will also prevent rust like you have. Do you have a 4" grinder with a sanding disc, 36grit. Sanding blocks, a range of sand paper , 120g , 180g, 240g and 320g. Get some good quality fine filler. Filler applicators.
Give it ago merzatt I'm sure you'll be fine. Check out a view YouTube videos they might help see what your in for. Good luck.


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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 12:12 PM
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You can do as much as you're comfortable with. Or more.

If I were you, I'd attack the affected areas with a small rotary wire brush (Dremel tool). Rub off the bubbled and stained areas which are stuffed anyway. Apply phosphoric acid solution (commercially-available rust converter) with a cotton bud, only to affected areas. It can etch your clear coat.

I then apply straight touch-up paint without primer. (Mainly because I don't have any primer.) Brush on a thin layer and allow each coat to dry before applying another. As stated before, if small areas of rust under the paint can't get oxygen and H2O, the reaction can't proceed.

Then shop around for a professional who can repair small areas e.g. stone chips without painting the whole panel. Only the lower lip of the bonnet needs painting.

Each of those areas started as a tiny breach of the paint surface. Open the tailgate and check under the top edge - you'll find more.

The paint shops only tell you there's no cure to prevent you complaining years down the track and expecting free fixes. Of course your car will rust more.

Last edited by DrX; 03-19-2017 at 01:38 PM.
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