So I believe the fuel pump is dead in my 2000 ML320. The fuel guage has been wacky for well over a year. My indy shop tech said I need a new pump as the fuel guage sender and pump are all one part. His quote was about $900. Too much for just a fuel guage. But now the car wont start. Starter spins for 15 seconds after you release the key but it will not fire. She started running really bad on the way home tonight. When I got home and checked the codes, I found code P0115. So, I replaced the water temp sensor. Code cleared but she still wasn't running right.
I'm thinking I should just replace the fuel pump and take care of the fuel guage and fuel pump issues all at the same time. But, when I try to source a replacement pump, 90% of them say I need to upgrade to the new 3 hose system and that the upgrade will require a new fuel filter and fuel lines. Is that true? Recommendations? I did find a OEM Mercedes pump online and it says it the two hose pump, but it almost $500. I found Uro brand pumps for $100 and several other brands around $200. Anyone have any brand recommendations?
I'm going to tell you my experience. Some may not like it but I bought a fuel pump for my 98 for $50 from am-auto parts. 10 year warranty. I won't complain. I have been running it for 6 months now with no problems. Just my opinion. Easy to install too..
I have not checked the fuel pressure. I have a basic scanner and that's about it. What's the process to check scanner? Special tools needed? It appears the job is within my skill set, but I still don't know if I should look for a pump with two fuel line connections or upgrade to a pump with 3 connections. The 3 connection pumps are much cheaper, but the description says I will need to replace my fuel filter and some fuel line. At almost 200k miles, maybe I should replace filter??? My long term plan is to keep this rig running for my 13 year old to drive in 3 years. I think it's a pretty safe vehicle and it's not worth more than $2k. So it's perfect for a new driver
When I bought my fuel pump it said I needed to upgrade fuel lines. I never did. It fits perfectly. It still has the old style filter and lines. As cheap as it is with a good warranty. I'd give it a shot. If you need a link for it let me know.
I think if you can squeeze your pocket hard you should get the genuine pump. Around 300$.
I have a 2000 ML320 too with 158000miles & just installed an aftermarket Autokaf pump-they have 12months guarantee. So I don't expect my new pump to cross 1year unlike the OEM one that stayed over 14years.
I purchased the ML new and I don't remember the fuel system ever having any trouble, but I decided to call the dealership and the indy shop I've worked with to see if they have a history of changing it. The dealership said they replaced the "capacity" fuel filter back in 2008. Not sure what the "capacity" refers to. The indy shop had no record of working on the fuel system. So, now it appears I need to know if I have a 2 or 3 line pump and I need to make a decision on whether to go aftermarket or OEM. As all OEM pumps now have 3 lines, I will have to upgrade my lines and fuel filter if I go OEM and the upgrade hasn't already been done. Does anyone know if a capacity fuel filter change in 2008 would of included an upgrade to 3 lines? I would doubt that there was a way to use the new lines and filter with the old pump. FYI: The dealership wants $561 for an OEM pump
Hey Josh198816; I checked out AM Parts...a $53 pump with a 10 year warranty looks pretty good. However, it does say the pump has 3 lines. Were you able to use it with a 2 line system or did your ML have 3 lines? Even if I source parts online, an OEM replacement with new pump, 3 fuel lines, 3 line filter and the "straps" they say are required will run about $575.00. For a car who retail value is under $2K, that doesn't make sense.
1. so see if your truck has already had the fuel line upgrade. To do so, remove the L/R wheel or crawl under the truck see if your fuel filter has the "Loop Line". If it does then the upgrade has already been done and only the fuel filter could be the problem. If not, then you have the old filter and must upgrade.
2. purchase or borrow a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure at the eng. test port. Attach the gauge, note the pressure, turn the key to pos. #2 and note pressure, crank the eng. and note the pressure.
You can spend $100 on a Uro pump, then you have to spend $200 on a better one when it fails. So you would have been better off spending $330 on a good one. Uro parts are rubbish, but I guess a dodgey fuel pump won't destroy your car or kill you.
Or spend 50 on one and have a warranty for 10 years free replacement... I haven't had any issues very well made piece. Obviously has to be if someone offers that long of a warranty
Oh. Im just giving my experience.. Sorry to sound rude or anything.. I have dealt with alot of companies on the Internet with warranty and some overseas companies will offer money back instead of repair/replace.. This one will swap it out no problems I've dealt with them for a long time. And they are in Kansas so you can understand what they are saying and have a customer service number to call.. I will say that I do buy most engine parts genuine Mercedes but some I don't..
So, I just finished inspecting the fuel pump and filter. I do have the loop line, so the filter has been replaced at least once after the upgrade was available. I think the dealership said the filter was replaced in 2008. The pump just has two fuel lines connected to it. The car won't start and I don't hear the fuel pump run at all when turning the ignition on. I'm considering just buying a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight, if I will need it. However, with the gas dead, my plan is to replace the pump either way as it was a major pain to get the rear seats out. Seats really aren't that bad, it's the trim around them...very hard to remove without breaking all the locking tabs. Okay, so here's my question. The new fuel pumps all have 3 fuel line connectors and my existing setup only has 2. So, I must me missing something...where does the third line on the pump connect? Is there another fuel line I need? Also, the DYI forum instructions on replacing the pump and filter recommend I get a fuel connector removal tool...looks like a special pliers. What do you think? As always, thanks for the help.
I don't have the pump yet. Trying to source one now that I can get in a hurry. However, I think I may have misinterpreted the different part sources descriptions. They all say something like this "This is the updated 3 hose version, if replacing original 2 hose type must also include the new style filter 1634770701 and the updated hoses and strap listed with the filter." I thought they were referring to the pump, but after looking as my filter and reading the filter update bulletins...I now think they are referring to the new fuel filter versus the old fuel filter, right?
My pump said 3 but it really only has 2 lines the other one on it is sealed.. Idk. I would take a picture for you if I had the seats out
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