diff seal (Not input shaft seal) is actually 3 jobs combine. 1) removal and install of drive axle. 2) Diff oil change. 3) diff axle seal remove and install.
There are lots of thing to remove before you can get to the seal. Will take time and effort. I would recommend to do both sides together (others might not agree, and only fix what's broken). If not, will soon follow if not replaced.
I replaced front left lower balljoint and axle seal on same side in couple of hours. It's not a bad job, at least for front.
Is rear any different/harder than front?
Edit: Wait, I replaced rear axle before as I broke the tone axle ring while replacing abs sensor.
That too wasn't too bad. I had upper control arm ball joint nut get stuck on me and I had to cut it, but reset went smooth
43rd, I believe I have a half shaft that doesnt fit correctly. On the new half shaft, once it is full in place, the metal apron does not pass through the edge of the transfer case...it butts up against it...I assume this apron is too wide correct? On the left side it sits inside the transfer case..
Yes, I still have the old one....I spun the new one around and it actually doesn’t hit the transfer case, so I am thinking it is just a different design. However, I would think the original design would be superior as it would protect the T/C from getting any water inside….with that said, for water to get into the T/c it would actually have to get past the splines…..you think I should just pop the CV joint off and replace the boot? Not sure I can return the axle…I sometimes get parts from parts distributor..not sure what their policy is….whatever....Have you seen this type of application before????
Measure the old axle from the lip to the end. Then make a mark on the new axle and remove it and measure the distance from the mark to the end and compare both measurements.
OK I will. I assume Im checking to see if it was built this way on purpose, correct? If distance is the same, lip is too wide and not correct part. if distance is different then it was built this way...? Im leaning toward the later, as I mentioned, it doesnt rub the against the case even though I thought it would..
Of course you are right, I did lay them side to side, but really was just checking for length...didnt measure....I'll do it and let you know in an hour...thanks for your help.
The distance from the lip to the end of the axle is the same 4.5 inches, however the circumference of the new lip is 3 3/8 versus 3 1/8, and the design is a little different, the older one seems to curve in more. On the other end, the larger part past the CV is wider on the new one (3 3/4 old vs. 4 1/8 new), but the part that actually fits into the wheel carrier seems to be the same size. Obviously as you can see from the pictures the shaft itself is larger on the new axle.
I am assuming that this is a case of the aftermarket part not being exactly the same as the original. My concerns is the way the lip stays outside of the T/C with a very small gap between it and the case. Again, it doesn’t actually touch, but could water get in ? Would you be OK using this Axles? It’s a GSP…I have heard good and bad…Advance, Parts warehouses, etc…carry them….
Joe, there was another thread not too long ago with a member having the same exact problem but I cannot find it and I do not remember the outcome.
I would take the axle back to the seller and bring your axle and tell them you are not comfortable installing it and get your money back.
Then I would buy a boot from M/B and find an axle rebuilder in NJ and have him install the new boot or find a mechanic who could do it. This of course depends on whether the axle is making noise or not.
OK thanks....I cant beleive others havent had this issue....when I had my A4 I had a similar issue and ended up spending big money for the Raxles...but I honestly cant say if it was making any noise. There has been a clicking noise that only shows itself when I back up on a hill, but I swear that was coming from the front.
I called GSP and sent the guy my photos he was very helpful although I dont have the answer I need. He said the dust collar isn’t really required and the remanufactured parts from all the other companies dont even come with one...he's right I checked. He said he thinks that a new one from A1 Cardone may be smaller the one they supply but he's not sure...he said the OE companies won't give them specs so he can’t check....he said I could remove it if I interferes or take it back.
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