My beloved ML55 has been machine gunned. I did the "test" and it appears that it is the actuator on the driver door. My questions are
1. Where is the best place to purchase the replacement. Because of what it does " used" is not an option.
2. The wis is suggesting 1.3 hours to do the job. What is the real time to complete the job? I am mechanically knowledgable but believe that most of these times are determined by mechanics who do it on a regular basis which I don't do. Any info about how long it took you to do the job would be appreciated especially since my garage isn't heated and winter is here. Thanks all!
1.3 hours is about right for a mechanically inclined person. Make sure you have all the tools to pop the door card off and then the door handle/lock assembly You do not have to disconnect the airbag, but if you feel it makes running the cables easier then disconnect the battery so you can remove the airbag safely and without getting and SRS message after you are done. Also test it well before putting the door card back on to make sure there is no binding and that the door handle/lock assembly work perfectly.
The only time I have had to replace them is twice. One on the 1999 ML and one on the 2000 ML. I never even flinched at the online price of the OE genuine MB part. It is not a jop you want to do twice. So going with MB genuine parts is the best way IMO.
Thank you for the information and insight Noodles. Probably going to wait until spring as my garage isn't heated. Will order a genuine OEM part. Seems anytime the job is one you don't want to repeat you go OEM. ;-)
Key tool is the very long hex bit (~20cm). It is necessary to remove the screw holding the door handle from inside the door. Job can be done without removing the airbag unit.
It's not expensive so you can buy a set of them.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HEABO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]10 Pc. T-handle Hex Key Wrench Set, 9 Inch Length Handle Metric - - Amazon.com@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41TdYQnu9UL.@@AMEPARAM@@41TdYQnu9UL[/ame]
Merz is it necessary to remove the door handle? I remember in one of the threads Rob (RJV) was saying he has changed the actuator without removing the door handle.
Art, it is necessary for the front doors. You don't have to remove the door handle entirely but the lock cylinder from the door handle needs to be removed.
I have bought a kit, just in case before tackling my machine gun issue.......I think it was like $15-20........It comes as 4 springs & a needle holder.....
If I am going to go through the "religious experience" of disassembling the door and removing the locks I'm gonna replace then see if I can repair the broken one just to have as a spare. It's the "pack rat" in me.
I have one door itching to go to war, so I too have ordered a spring kit. Of course, murphy's law would dictate that it will not be the spring broken in mine. I'm just guessing. I'll wait till the springs arrive and see what's what.
I write to update the forum on the status of my door lock. You may recall that the driver's door would not lock or unlock except manually. I was ready to order the actuator and suddenly it was working again! So the problem not to look a gift horse in the mouth is why? It was clearly inoperative for approximately 3 days and certainly gave the impression that it had given up the ghost but a miracle today and it works. If anyone has any reason why I'd like the benefit of your wisdom because it makes no sense. Nothing was done to the remote and the remote worked the other three doors and the lift gate. Thanks.
After 3 days the driver door is no longer locking and the other doors are machine gunning again. Since I have a professional scanner that does transmission control units I plan to hook it up just to eliminate any possible module issues as I'm sure the problem is the door. But I guess I want to know from the collective body how much trouble it is to disassemble the door? I've removed and replaced the inner door on my CLS and while labor intensive ( approximately 3 hours) it wasn't particularly difficult. It was a driver's door and I had to replace the master window switch panel. Because the ML door locked for 3 days I'm considering the possibility that one of the connections has gotten lose causing an intermittent or possibly a failing switch. Having not taken the door apart on the ML but having done so on the CLS the plugs appear to be snap-lock plugs that don't "get loose". I have no problem making the changeout but would like to know others experience with the machine gun issue and if it always ends with the replacement of a door lock component ie. actuator or switch as I would like to have the parts at the start of the project so it can be completed at one time. Thanks for the feedback.
I know this is an old thread, but would like to know if you ended up replacing the lock assembly(ies)? My passenger door wouldn't lock at all, even manually. Please update, thanks!
I'm hoping not have to replace more than 1 or 2 at most. Currently, both right side doors cannot be opened from inside. Those maybe fixed with simple spring replacement, I'm waiting for the springs and clips to arrive at this time. Not sure when I'll tackle this, a bit too cold outside. My garage is still big mess after my recent move to Oregon.
It would be good if we could get hold of a supplier that sells these small motors with the long shaft. Replacing this fixed my lock that was completely dead.
I will investigate the dead motor today and see if it's just the brushes that are worn. It was an easy fix.
Please take some (the more the better) photos of detailed repair of what you're doing. A lot of members will appreciate your effort, including myself! :laugh
So I fitted the new motor this morning in to the lock. The shaft on the new motor was 8mm shorter so I cut the old one and joined it in the brass spiral cog. Loctited it in and it fitted perfectly.
The new motor worked the lock perfectly except the polarity of the new motor must be opposite to the old one. So the lock would unlock when the other 3 doors were locked. I will now see if I can get a motor with the correct polarity on the motor. The Benz lock motor has a small red dot next to one of the connections, I'm guessing this will be the positive terminal. I will pull the lock apart and check my new motor for a similar marking.
For $7 it's a cheap fix with a bit of fine tuning. Will update once I find out more. I didn't want to swap any wires over in the lock at this stage until I find out a bit more. I thought that might confuse micro switches and things.
This is the motor I bought. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331399289745
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