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Old 02-21-2013, 11:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2006
Vehicle: ML320 2000
Location: Orange County, CA
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Question Replacing transmission on 2000 ML320

My transmission is acting weird. In the morning, when I start, it works fine for a while. Then, gears don't change. Apparently, it gets stuck on the emergency 3rd gear.

I took it to the shop. They said error codes are 147 and 148. I guess they imply gears are slipping. I think the problem might be with the 4th and 5th gears.

Rebuilding the transmission is minimum $2000. And, they only replace a few parts. It can be more expensive than that.

I can get a used low mileage transmission for $2000 total. My car has 120000 miles. So, I am thinking going this route.

What are the other parts should i replace? such as transmission filter, gasket, seal etc.

Thanks.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
I can get a used low mileage transmission for $2000 total. My car has 120000 miles. So, I am thinking going this route.
Hmmm. So, I am thinking you should read through the 722.6xx FAQ thread in the 210 forum help/DIY stickies, and then check the TCM for signs of fluid incursion.

And I'm also thinking you need a shop that actually knows what they are doing.

Good luck.
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Last edited by Check Codes; 02-22-2013 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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And must first check the oil level with the MB gauge. Replacement of oil is certainly to be expected.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Remove/separate the 13 pin electrical connector at the R/S of the transmission and check for trans. fluid between the two halves. Fluid present will prevent contact between the connector pins resulting in codes.

If there is fluid, replace with dealer purchased part only. Clean harness connector with electrical contact cleaner to remove all traces of trans. fluid.

Then after the repair, the codes both in the ECM (P0700) and the Trans. Control Module (147 & 148) must be cleared. If the codes are not cleared from both modules you will continue to experience the same problems even though the proper repair has been made.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:04 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thank you all for your replies.

I took the car to 3 shops. One of them is Transmeister, which is supposed to be good at this.

All 3 took the car to a drive and then read the codes. Transmeister check the transmission fluid level. He said it is high. None checked the 13 pin connector.

I read the forum before I went. I was aware that the reason could be some of the switches. I asked them that, but none paid attention. They all said the problem is internal.

The thing is when I take the car to them, it is already stuck at the 3rd gear. However, in the morning, it shifts through the gears smoothly. I can drive on the highway with the highest gear at 2000 RPM or so. So, for some reason, transmission computer is getting locked up after a while.

I will look into the 13 pin connector. But, if it was dirty, should not gears work at all in the morning?

Also, sometimes when I put it in Reverse gear, it is not reading. It is sitting at Neutral. Is there something under the gear box that could be bad? But, again, everything works fine in the morning.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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1. I disconnected the Transmission module next to gas pedal. It is all clean. There is no oil.

2. I drove the car at low speeds. If I keep the car at 1st and 2nd gear. It runs fine for a long time. But, the moment it changes to the 3rd gear, then the problem starts. However, it still switches to 1st and 2nd gear. It just has a problem switching to the 3rd gear with high RPM. Like this, it did not kick into the emergency mode. I even idled the car for 5 minutes or so.

3. I tried to get under the car but I did not fit in. I don't have the jacks to elevate the car. However, when I looked under the black transmission pan, (i think) the side it has the 13 pin connector was greasy. I think it is leaking transmission fluid. Here is the picture of it.



Black part is oily, silver part is dry.

I pointed a green arrow to where I think 13 pin connector pin is. Am I correct?

Do you think the leak is coming from there or could it be from somewhere else?

Do you still think the 13 pin connector is the problem?
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:17 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by behr View Post
Do you still think the 13 pin connector is the problem?
Absolutely. Remove the heat shield and separate the connector and you will see that there is trans fluid present. Red arrow indicates the harness to the 13 pin connector.

The reason why none of the "meisters" didn't dialog with you on this issue is that they know that this is the problem and were trying to reach in to your pockets.

You will have to find someone with a jack and jack stand to get this job done, but before you start, obtain the pilot bushing first (less than $20 at the dealer) so you don't have to do this twice. Jack up the R/S of the truck as high as you can you can keep fluid spillage to a minimum when removing the pilot bushing.

And I repeat again, after the repair all codes in every module must be erased, but do not go to any of the mechanics that you went to for a diagnosis as they will make sure that the codes are not cleared.

Do you understand everything?



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Old 02-23-2013, 09:47 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I am heading to buy the 13 pin connector now. My only worry is not to break the pins. They say 13 pin has a 7mm bolt. So, I will try to be careful.

Thanks for the advice for tipping the car high to avoid oil drain.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I replaced the 13 pin connector. But, it did not fix the problem.

I will get the codes cleared tomorrow.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:48 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by behr View Post
I replaced the 13 pin connector. But, it did not fix the problem.

I will get the codes cleared tomorrow.
Why tell half the story. Did it have fluid present?
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