Please go back and reread my post. You can not just go back to ACC position. You have to go all the back to position 0 or it will not crank.
It is built that way to prevent flywheel and starter damage.
Try a spare key if you have one The red light inbetween Low Range and the Fog light buttons is the real indicator though. It needs to blink ONCE when in position 2 (position before starting)
Try a spare key if you have one The red light inbetween Low Range and the Fog light buttons is the real indicator though. It needs to blink ONCE when in position 2 (position before starting)
Please go back and reread my post. You can not just go back to ACC position. You have to go all the back to position 0 or it will not crank.
It is built that way to prevent flywheel and starter damage.
Thank you very much too for your kindness and attention.
Vehicle: 1998 ML320 300k, 1999 ml320 160k, 2000 ml320 150k, 1992 ford explorer 400+k
Location: West Palm Beach
Posts: 158
Check the key . Sometimes the microchip goes bad, specially if you had to jump the car and left the key in the ignition. You need to go to the dealer and order a new key, dont forget to take a copy of your insurance car with your name in . If the car is not register on your name dont even bother, here the only person who can order a key is the registered owner.
In fact they are tougher about it now with the theft relevant parts rules MB has given to all the dealers.
The registration and the owner whose name is on the registration have to go and order it in person. My dealers have know me for almost 20 years and I even had to have the vehicle present with all of the above criteria I listed.
biturbo, you don't need to order a new key just yet. If your key is bad you will most likely have no-crank or short-crank/immediate-stall condition. (On later models, "start error" appears on the odometer display.)
Please tell us what start problems you had before this 2-seconds-idle/stall problem.
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