I am having a starting problem with my 98 ML320 which has 85,000 miles on that I am hoping that someone here can help me with. About a year ago, my battery had died in my ML and I ended up buying a new battery. I had some key issues after replacing the battery, in which one key now no longer works (it will start the car but dies immediately after) but had no problems starting the car with the other working key.
The first time I had a problem with the starting car was after I drove the car for some errands and came home. After about an hour, when I went to run some more errands, I could not get the car to start. I was able to jump start the car which I drove around for a while to charge up the battery. The next day in the morning, I had no problem in starting the car and was able to drive the car to work. However, when I tried to drive home that night, the car again would not start. I ended up calling AAA who cam and jump started the car and rans some tests on the battery, which they said was not the problem.
I took the car to an indy shop, to see if it was the starter or the battery causing the problem. The mechanic ran the diagnostic and found some error codes (p1570, b1703) and said that it was likely that the AAM was faulty and that it had to be replaced. He said that the fuel pump was fine. I was able to jump start the car again and drive the car home. After reading the threads on the forum here, I thought that maybe it was the CPS that was the problem so I replace it but there is no change. Currently, when I attempt to start the car, all the lights on the dashboard lights up when I turn the key, but the bar car does not crank. When I do turn the key to start, the car just make this one click/thunk sound. I tried to jump start the car but now it even that won't work. The remote on the key works fine and the windows, locks, and lights (dome/headlights) all work in the car.
Is the problem with the AAM or could it be something else? I would rather not replace the AAM unless I know for sure it is not something else since it is so costly to replace. Also, can a non-MB dealer replace and program the AAM in the 98 ml320? What are the symptoms of a faulty AAM?
Any thoughts, adivce, and/or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
The loss of use of one key is probably due to you attempting to jump start the truck or when you replaced the new battery, THE KEY WAS IN THE IGNITION. Remember in the future that the key must be out of the ignition while hooking up the battery or while jump starting.
Your continued problem appears to be a starter problem or a ground problem and not an AAM problem.
There are some good experts in this forum that can help you more, but I can give my opinion on your problem..
First, you have to be very careful jump starting your ML. They are very picky and if you have your key on the ignition while jump starting your ML, you may fry your key. This seems to be what happened with your first key..
Some owners recommend never to leave your key in the ignition while you are connecting the cables to your vehicle to avoid this problems.
Second, if your battery is fine, then why do you have to jumpstart your ML? Your original problem may have been with the Crank Shaft Position sensor, but you may have now a bad key.. I think there are some ways to find if the DAS module is recognizing your key (by watching the red light blink pattern). There are some posts on this and some experts that will know the details right away.. There is a Camshaft Position Sensor, too, that fails less often but that produces a similar problem with no starts.. Don't know which one you change but you may want to mention it.. Weak batteries always cause all kind of problems too...
Those two codes seem to be like a bad key.. I'll let the real experts help you with your problem.. Good luck...!!
AC
__________________
2005 ML 500
Black, 18" AMG Wheels, 285/60R18 Yokohama Geolander HTS + Bi-Xenons(+ Drew's e-code mod, though the reflectors rusted off and do not give out much light anymore), Yakima roof bars, Akebono pads all around. Former vehicle 2001 ML 320 with 108K miles, when traded, and a large repair/defect history. After all these years of owning my current 2005 ML 500, it is a major unreliable vehicle with a very large/expensive repair/defect history and has been like this since brand new.
As for my dead key, I unfortunately learned about how jump starts kills the key after it died. I will definitely in the future heed to your advice about not having the key in the ignition.
As for my no start, no crank problem, I am happy to hear that it might not be the AAM. Even though the battery is fine (that what both the mechanic and AAA informed me) I had to jumpstart the car to bypass the starting problem. The CPS that I replaced was the Crankshaft Position Sensor not the Camshaft Postion Sensor. How can I tell if it is the starter that is the problem?
That is a very good question.. I had a similar problem with starting my vehicle.. In my case, I will turn the key and there was nothing going on. The lights on the dashboard did not even dim.. After several unsuccesful trips to the MB stealership, it turned out to be a loose wire in/around the starter.. I will ask the mechanic to clean and tighten up the connections to the starter and to check if the starter solenoid is working. It should make some noise when you turn the key to start the vehicle.. a click or something..
The mechanic should be able to test directly the starter, too, and see if it works or if current, and how much, is getting to the starter.....
Make sure the battery terminals are very clean. As odd as it can sound, a couple of weeks ago, I was helping a friend trying to find out why his vehicle will not start at all.. Everything tested ok, lights, relays, main relay, solenoids, battery load test, etc.. but there was no crank whatsoever.. We went to eat lunch and we decided, just for the heck of it, to thouroughly clean the battery terminals and clamps, which looked a little sulfated, and we left the battery charging..
When we came back, we put the battery and the car started right away and has not failed since... We still can't figure out what was wrong..
By the way, when your car fails to start, you don't get a "Start Error" message on your dashboard.. right..? There is a known problem with the DAS (Drive Authorization System) that causes that problem...
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdnlsgrl
Thanks for all the replies and advice.
..... How can I tell if it is the starter that is the problem?
As for my dead key, I unfortunately learned about how jump starts kills the key after it died. I will definitely in the future heed to your advice about not having the key in the ignition.
As for my no start, no crank problem, I am happy to hear that it might not be the AAM. Even though the battery is fine (that what both the mechanic and AAA informed me) I had to jumpstart the car to bypass the starting problem. The CPS that I replaced was the Crankshaft Position Sensor not the Camshaft Postion Sensor. How can I tell if it is the starter that is the problem?
It is very disturbing that you were at the shop and had to leave there using jump start. Nobody looked at actual problem. Reading codes and applying them is silliest game around.
It is unbelievable that starter motor has not sent SMS message to 1 800 FOR MERC to help you. What a poor implementation of technology.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.