Is there a way to temporarily disable the traction control module (BAS/ESP Module) on my truck?
The reason I ask is I am suffering from a stiff/heavy power steering.
There are a number of reasons for this but these are the ones I am currently considering:
Power steering pump
Power steering rack
BAS/ESP (Traction) Module
I have already changed the PS pump.
The steering rack may be next, once I order it from the US and it arrives here.
In the meanwhile:
The ML55 is equipped with speed sensitive steering which is meant to stiffen the steering as speeds increase and the system works by processing relevant signals/information from the BAS/ESP (Traction) control module and adjusting the steering assistance as required.
I'm currently working on the theory, perhaps misguided, that the traction control module is faulty and sending the wrong information to the sensor?/parametric valve? in the steering rack making the steering stiff and requiring an awful lot of effort.
If that is the case, I was wondering whether it may be possible to disable the traction control system temporarily to see if that fixes my stiff steering.
I don't want to purchase the traction control module ($780) and it turns out not to be my problem so I must eliminate all possibilities.
The next theory is in relation to replacing the power steering rack which is no cheaper - it retails from between $1000 (reconditioned) to $1800 (New).
Witek and 43sqd have been very kind in providing me with information to help me solve the problem and I attach the following documents which have influenced my thinking in this regard.
Measure meter is ok, I am using it along time, and its never let down, so I don't know why resistance is changing.
With measuring voltage and current also all ok, I've measured: a) current - in line with component, voltage - parallel to component.
So give me your data and we will see, maybe the Y10 isn't working properly.
I've been following this thread with interest because though, upon Witek's advice, my power steering was somewhat restored, I still feel that it is requiring a lot more effort than should be necessary - It feels like it is operating at 50%-60% efficiency.
I just wanted to ask whether, like me, you have been experiencing an intermittent illumination of the BAS/ESP dashboard indicator light?
im gonna bump this back up. replaced my pump a few months ago because it blew up and puked all over my garage.
I thought the steering was supposed to be how it is, but last week i was pulling out of my driveway and i could turn the wheel with 0 effort. by the time i got to the corner it was back to its normal stiffness.
This morning it was easy again for about 20 feet then stiff again.
I assumed it was just because it is finally starting to warm up here.
that Y10 thing or whatever it is that you guys were mentioning... is that something that can be replaced separately or does that involve getting a new steering rack?
Sorry for bumping this old thread but I am really tiring of this power steering! Symptoms: When I drive the car at higher speeds the steering works but at low speeds I get very little assistance and at stand still I get 0 assistance. In order to park the car for example I have to put the car in neutral and rev it just to get some power steering (steering much easier at abt 2k rpm) to turn the wheel. It is getting dangerous because even when turning right on lights at low speeds the steering will stiffen enough to where i have to really push it to stop it drifting to the opposite lane I replaced the reservoir last week, filled with fresh MB fluid, and purged the system as described in the forum (didn't fix the whine) however, when I did the switch I lost the O-ring and had to put the old one in. I am getting a new O-ring and putting it in this weekend so hopefully that will help. Could the stiff steering be caused by that old O-ring, because the reservoir doesn't seem to be leaking at all. Could it be a weak pump?
Another note: I have been getting intermittent BAS/ESP lights recently but I think my steering gave me problems before that light. Is it related?
Please I am desperate I just want to move on any input would be greatly appreciated :bowdown:
Thank you in advance for the responses I am baffled
I too still have to exert a bit more turning effort than should be necessary to turn the wheel.
However, in your case it sounds to me like you need to change your power steering pump.
This is unlike myself and the other ML55 owners who have some sort of electrical problem stemming from our steering rack/Y10 thingybob which is not replaceable as a single part but requiring a replacement of the WHOLE bloody steering rack.:crybaby2:
Thanks for the replay FAR. I was thinking I needed a new pump but it still doesn't explain why it still growls. Or does it? Could a new pump make the growling disappear or will simply the O-ring replacement do that along with new fluid and new purging?
The growling issue can come from air that has been forced deep into the system. "Normally" if the pump has not been blown out or showing signs of major leakage, the pump is recoverable if the air is purged up and out of the system with propoer bleeding procedure. Air also blows out a anti-cavitation sceen in the reservoir, and the reservoir design has been updated too.
Call the dealer with your VIN# to see if there are any outstanding campaigns on your power steering hoses/connections - sometimes these can be the original source of the air leaks.
Although it may not change your speed sensitive problems - yes, a reservoir/o-ring replacement, with correct purge/bleeding procedure (search the forum for this) should put the right parts back on, pull up and out the trapped air, and reduce/eliminate the groaning. That DIY will cost you about $100 in parts/fluid - but make sure the front wheels get up in the air, and the engine remanins OFF (not turned on for even a nano second) untill ther correct bleeding procedure is corrected.
Thank you gentlemen for your responses. I will check the pressure with my indie and determine if it needs replacing. I just wish it wasn't so. $500 for a ps pump?!?!
Hi, all..Need help with same steering issue.
2000 ML55 167K miles
At low speed under 5mph, My steering has almost no power assist. It becomes very hard to turn. Making parking very very difficult.
If I put the transmission in neutral or park position and rev the engine and the power assist will return. so it seems that the pump need an extra 500rpm of engine speed to operate. At Normal driving speed the steering assist operate fine.
Rack was rebuild 9 months ago,
No Power steering fluid leaks.
Steering pump whine is at a normal level not noticeable until the steering wheel is fully turned to it lock limit.
Am I looking at a new Pump? or another Rack rebuild? Y10 SPS valve?
the Y10 SPS valve I looked at under the car, Im almost possitive it can be replaced without pullling the rack out.
I feel your pain fkong777 - I too have a stiff steering at slow speeds - Mine doesn't seem engine-speed dependent for its proper operation so I'm assuming it's an electrical problem with the Y10 or something.
My steering inexplicably reverts to a much lighter feel sometimes; accompanied by the BAS/ESP lights illuminating.
I'm intrigued by what you say above about the Y10 SPS being a replaceable part - Could you please verify that this is so?
You would be the saving grace of every ML55 owner with a stiff steering on this Forum....I personally would love you for ever.
43sqd and Witek, PLEASE also help in this regard - Is the Y10 a separate replaceable part?
ps.
fkong777, I have to say that, like 01ml320benzito, your stiff steering appears to be engine-speed related and may just be that your power steering pump needs replacing.
01ml320benzito solved his problem by replacing his power steering pump.
That is not to say this will be the panacea you also seek.
Thanks for the tip. Im also thinking it is a weak pump. since it is rpm related. just need some comfirmations. It started shortly after I took a 800mile trip. averaging 75mph. so I must have been the pumps last stand.
I will do some power test this weekend. see if I connect 12v to the y10 connector it will keep the sps valve open and remedy the stiff steering.
there is a sps valve repair kit. part # a211 460 08 84,
wishful thinking is that W163 will have a similar part kit.
I got under the car and disconnected the the y10 connector to clean it. There is a heatshield covering the part but it can be bent out of the way easily. The y10 valve is on the driver side.
....I got under the car and disconnected the the y10 connector to clean it. There is a heatshield covering the part but it can be bent out of the way easily. The y10 valve is on the driver side.
I can't tell you how excited I am right now at the prospect of a possible fix for this problem with mine and other ML55 owners' stiff power steering problems. :dance:
You say I can access this Y10 from under the truck without removing the rack?
Did you have to put the truck on jack stands?
Can you take pictures of the location of the rack vis-a-vis the Y10 or proportioning valve?
I don't see a price in the excellent parts explosion diagram you posted - What is the price?
Can you render any further help on replacing the part? Instructions? Diagrams?
I want to get under my truck and at least clean the connector first - Maybe it's just dirty? - I did say my stiff steering sometimes becomes light (i.e. power steering is restored) inexplicably till I turn off the truck when it becomes stiff again.
In fkong777's exploded picture above I see he has highlighted part #48 - Is that the Y10? It looks like a CONNECTOR of some sort rather than a VALVE - Is that the Y10, proportioning valve or SPS?
Y10 is not visible from this angle. All you see is arrow with symbol of open end wrench. It's a parts kit. You need to check resistance and current to Y10. Replacing it may not fix your problem.
took a picture. you can see the valve next to the 2 power steering hose banjo connection.
I have to bend the heat shield to see it. also there seem to be room to remove it without removing the rack.
43sqd, thanks for the clarifications on the exploded parts diagram you gave earlier.
I just got under the truck and everything is just as pictured but it is really difficult to manoeuvre and get a good grip on the connector to pull it off - This was partly due to the fact I did not put the truck on jack stands and the catalytic converters were slightly hot (truck was only on long enough for me back it out of the garage).
I'm going to try again once the truck cools down.
I have to say the connector did not look dirty or covered in oil or anything.
I did notice that the Y10 connector wire goes up into the engine but I could not trace WHERE it ends up - Does it lead all the way to the traction control module?
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