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448K views 125 replies 72 participants last post by  springerfever 
#1 ·
#65 ·
Things to know when replacing a drivers door (early model to late model)

This is my experience when using a 2003 door on my 99 ML430:

If you are using a new model door for the 99 you'll will need the wiring harness, air bag, mirror and speaker out of your old door. The airbag, speaker and mirror wiring were different as was the plug end going to the truck. You'll need to drill out the airbag from the original and rivet it into your new door as the airbags are completely different. Also on the 2003 door the door seal was on the door while on the 99 it's on the truck. I just removed the seal from the door and it seals nicely. This info will save someone a lot of time if they have to do this job. Also it helps to have an extra person holding the door when removing and installing the door to the truck. This isn't a toyota!
 
#67 ·
FSS Reset Instructions.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/3351435-post17.html


Interesting side note. I failed to reset the FSS at 0 eventhough I changed the oil and filter. I got to -200 miles and my instrument panel "reset" when I turned on my lights. Since I reset the FSS...it stopped doing it. Not sure if connected - but adding this anyway.
 
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#70 ·
R & I Driveshaft ctr bearing support

LOTS OF PICTURESThe ML-500 now has 76,000 miles . And has developed a light dry bearing noise that increases with the rotation speed of the driveshaft. So I narrowed it down to the D/S ctr support bearing. So, I purchased a new OEM MB 163 410 00 10 kit from Parts.com , on the recommendation of Noodles . So I did this R & R in My home garage ,ML on the Jack stands as high as it would go. If I was to rate this DIY , #1 being very easy & #10 very difficult . I rate it as a #4 . This was done with hand tools & a outboard flywheel / Bearing puller kit.
The total working time was 4 hours , 1st 1/2 hour was getting the ML on the stands . Marking the bolts & shaft location and remove the rear D/S Tools used were, a 3/8" drive, 16mm 6pt shallow socket. at the rear diff. Next was the Cross U-joint bolts and straps, 1/4" drive 4" extension 8 mm 6 point shallow socket. I used a Strap wrench too hold the D/S from turning while loosening the bolts. I spent the next Hour Removing the 2 - 10mm X 1.5 - 16 mm hex head bolts , they have a thread cutting lead in for self tapping into the cross bracket & lots of Blue Loctite. No Heat needed , just some spray lub to the exposed bolt threads from the bottom access holes , A long handle flex head 3/8" ratchet really Helps , again I used a 16mm 6 point shallow socket . I then turned the assy 90* on its side and slid it rearward the diff , then down and out . Head to the shop part of the Home garage More to come Here is the part #2 http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1705126-r-i-driveshaft-ctr-bearing-support.html and there is a U-tube of the noisy old bearing
Cheers _PTEngineering
 

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#72 ·
R & I Driveshaft ctr bearing support #2

I then undid the 6 - 8mm X 1.25 cap head screws that held the smaller D/S & C/V joint to the Support Bearing Assy. #6 Pictures for this . I used the 3/8" flex head long ratchet , 6mm allen 3/8" drive Snap on p/n FAM6E, with a shorten Hex, You can go to SEARS and get a Craftsman set too. Use a strap wrench here to. I cleaned the threads in the cross bracket with a tap & cleaned the bolts with a die , Lots of dried up blue loctite . Next , I put the yoke in the 6" shop Vice and used a 15/16" 6 point socket & a 1/2 drive breaker bar to loosen the lock nut & thick pressure washer , I marked the spline's location as per the instruction Sheet Noodle's sent. Used a common puller kit to pull the yoke from the splines. ( The yoke pulled off nicely , No major pressure on the pressing screw ) I then put the nut back on finger tight and use a small brass mallet to tap the shaft & spline assy out of the bearing assy. I did maybe 4 light hits. It came right out. Not a Press fit LOL. I wire brushed the rusty surfaces. Installed the shaft & spline assy back into the new support bearing assy. Put the yoke at the proper marked splines ( The Paint marker was a little runny ) Install the new washer & nut supplied in the kit , Put the yoke back into the Vise , Torqued the nut to 110.5 ft Lbs / 150 Nms. Slid the assemble part in down by the Rear diff Turned it on the side . Moved it along the side of the gas tank . turned it upright, set it to the Cross Bracket. applied a Drop of Blue Loctite to the threads of the bolts Reverse procedure of removal . Here is a U-tube video of the noisey bearing , https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dyQFFm0gQM
Peace & Quiet again
Cheers _PTEngineering
 

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#74 ·
Noisy Ctr support Bearing

I was driving down the street that has cement walls , with my windows open and could here a dry bearing noisy , but it wasn't at wheel speed , at low speeds it seem about 3 times faster than the wheel ?? so I climb under the ML , the D/S felt looser that I thought was normal , So it was kinda shot in the Dark. so to speak Cheers _PTEngineering
 
#76 ·
Windscreen demister problem - replace vent flap actuator motor

Heater pushed hot air to face vents, floor vents or both, but stopped pushing hot air to windscreen when demister button pressed.

This DIY - how to remove, repair (or replace) and reinstall the demister vent flap actuator motor. See here.
 
#81 ·
Motor mount Issues & Picture

Well at 88,000 thousand Miles , I decided too change out the motor mounts , ( Even though they passed the throttle stretch test ) I didn't do a whole DIY thing. Thought that somebody had already done one with Pictures & tool list ? No so. My fault for not checking the DIY post in the header section. Mine took a little more time because of the headers and the pesky heat shields & guard brackets on the Drivers side. I put the ML up on Jack stands in my Home garage , Removed the front wheels and the plastic wheel house liners. 20 Minutes . Got out the cherry picker . Placed it over the motor .

On the driverside , I removed the heat shields & bracket. ( What a Pain in the A$$ ) That bracket also holds a P/S hi pressure hose , which will side out with alittle effort. I undid the lower mount nuts (16 mm hex ) on both sides , Then the upper mount section nuts on both sides.. Lifted the motor about 3". The passenger side was a breeze. Just had to work around the headers. I removed the motor block mount bracket. 4- # 10 mm screws with a E-12 torques Heads. Slide that bracket upward & outward. Removed the old mount, Install the new one & reversed the procedure. The Drivers side was alittle more involved. Again , I removed the engine block mount bracket . It had 6 - #10 torques screws , You also need to remove the air con compressor rear attachment bolt . And use a universal joint # E-12 torques socket for the most forward bracket screw. The Bracket was slide upward The mount came out with ease. Reverse procedure , Then lower the motor back down , Tighten upper nuts 18 mm Hex , then lower nuts 16mm Hex. No Hammers or pry bars needed . The whole job took about 4 hours. with hand tools , No Air tools used. So The mounts may seem good & pass the stretch test . But what you can not see , is they have compress & gotten soft . The new mounts retail for $41.00 I bought mine for $32.80 and they have improvements too!! Cheers _PTEnginnering
 

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#84 ·
2005 ML Brake Pad Change

I have just changed the worn brakepads on my 2005 ML 270cdi.

I used the following video as a guide and was surprised that I could change the pads without removing the calipers :thumbsup:

 
#93 ·
I have just changed the worn brakepads on my 2005 ML 270cdi.

I used the following video as a guide and was surprised that I could change the pads without removing the calipers
This is Exactly how to change the pads on my 1987 560SL! Glad to see MB stuck with a great braking system.
 
#86 ·
Radio-NO SOUND

For those members who experience no sound coming from any of the speakers, but the rest of the functions are operational, perform the following:

1. key out of ignition.

2. for 1998-2001 ML's, remove fuse #21 in the underhood fuse/relay box.

for 2002-2005 ML's, remove fuses #21 & #40.

3. wait ten seconds and reinsert.

4. then follow the instructions to enter the Radio Code.
 

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#88 ·
Parasitic Draw/Battery Draw Test

1. check all fuses in underhood fuse/relay and right side kick panel fuse/relay box (if applicable), with test light or DVOM.

2. battery must be fully charged.

3. with the key out of the ignition:

a. if 98-99 ML, close all doors and tailgate (not locked) and open hood.

b. if 2000 and up, open right front door and hood and close all other doors (not locked) and tailgate. Throw door latch at right front door to simulate it being closed. Wait to see that the over head lights extinguish. You must be absolutely sure that the door latch is fully closed or else the test will be useless.

c. if your truck has a hood alarm switch, the plunger must be weighted down to simulate the hood being closed.

4. lock vehicle using remote. If remote does not lock doors, then proceed without.

5. wait approx. 1/2 hr. for the modules to power down and go into sleep mode. After this point, do not attempt to open any door or turn the ignition or remove any fuse.

6. follow the directions in the video, starts at 3:20, and using a DVOM set to millivolt scale, test every fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box and then for those who have a 2000 + ML, also test all fuses in the right side kick panel fuse/relay box.



7. when you discover the fuse number that is drawing current, you must post back and then you will be supplied with what components use that fuse.

8. for those that had to throw the door latch, simply lift the outside door handle to release the lock before closing the door.
Attached Thumbnails
Parasitic Draw/Battery Draw Testing-door-lock-throw.jpg
 

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#89 ·
Rear wheel vibration ML 430...Please help!

Hello,
NEED HELP...New brakes and rotors installed on the rear, seeded properly. Drove about 45 miles and came to a stop, accelerated and heavy vibration/rattling from the rear started. Happens when in gear and neutral. Could not go over 5MPH

Got it towed, took wheels off and checked for loose bolts, screws, etc...nothing!:mad:

Possible CV or bearings??? Need advice here.

Thank You!
 
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