This DIY is for the 4 rubber O ring seals (#137), located on the attached pdf.
Steps:
1. use a jack to lift truck. secure truck with jack stands on each side of the truck.
2. use a 3/8" socket wrench and a 15mm socket to remove the star cap (#135).
3. use an oil pan to catch any dripping fluid.
4. use needle nose pliers to remove the black rubber O ring seals from the hub.
5. replace the 4 rubber seals (#137).
6. replace the cap (#135).
7. refill your power stearing ress with MB power stearing fluid.
8. Crack open a beer and relax, you just saved $600 from the dealer.
First off I wanted to thank everyone on here for such valuable information. After sorting through all the pictures taken during the install, I made a simple webpage going through the process step by step to help change the pads and rotors. I don't claim it's perfect, but atleast it can offer more insight to someone who is looking for pictures or more info on how to replace their rotors and pads.
It's been about 3-4 weeks now, and everything worked out great. If there are any suggestions or comments, feel free to let me know as well.
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2005 ML 500
Black, 18" AMG Wheels, 285/60R18 Yokohama Geolander HTS + Bi-Xenons(+ Drew's e-code mod, though the reflectors rusted off and do not give out much light anymore), Yakima roof bars. Former vehicle 2001 ML 320 with 108K miles, when traded, and a large repair/defect history. After 3 years of owning my current 2005 ML 500, it has become another major unreliable vehicle with a very large/expensive repair/defect history..
This DIY is for the 4 rubber O ring seals (#137), located on the attached pdf.
Steps:
1. use a jack to lift truck. secure truck with jack stands on each side of the truck.
2. use a 3/8" socket wrench and a 15mm socket to remove the star cap (#135).
3. use an oil pan to catch any dripping fluid.
4. use needle nose pliers to remove the black rubber O ring seals from the hub.
5. replace the 4 rubber seals (#137).
6. replace the cap (#135).
7. refill your power stearing ress with MB power stearing fluid.
8. Crack open a beer and relax, you just saved $600 from the dealer.
Total cost of this DIY ($15.00).
Detane - What is this supposed to do? I ask because I have a whinning noise that the SA said is linked to a seal around this place?Do you have the part nos. for the seals?Thanks in advance.
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AMG 19X9.5 Wheels,
Stock AMG 18X8.5 Wheels
Yokohama Advan S/T 295/45/19 Tires,
Bridgstone Dueller 285/50/18
SCHATZ Chrome Rear hatch handle,
SCHATZ Chrome Headlight Trim
Chrome AMG License Frame,
SCHATZ Chrome Side Light Surrounds,
German Howell Chrome Door Lock Surrounds,
German Howell Chrome Indash Air vent surrounds,
AMG Stem Valve Caps LED Tail Lights
So after searching everywhere for a DIY and finding nothing I decided to write my own, so here we go.
Things you will need:
2x 1 Gallon MB Coolant Containers PN Q1 03 0002 (Local Dealer $40)
3x 1 Gallon Distilled Water (Walmart $2)
1x Antifreeze Funnel (Autozone $3)
2x Auto Ramps (Optional, Makes Job Easier Autozone $35)
1x 19mm Socket and Wrench (Or Needle Nose Pliers and Strong Fingers)
1x 5 Gallon Bucket Clear W/ Quart Marks (Optional, You Need a Large Container That Can Hold At Least 5 Gallons.
Time to complete: 30-45 Minutes
First we need to drain the existing coolant from the radiator, in order to do this we must loosen the black radiator drain plug. This plug is black and has a fin to turn it by, it is located on the bottom/front passenger side of the radiator as shown in the below pictures. It can be seen through the bumpers bolt opening with a flashlight and very hard to get to.
In the second picture it is the square looking thing to the right, turn to the left a couple times and coolant will start to pour out of the hole shown below.
Make sure you have a container under the drain hole and turn the plug on the radiator.
It was pretty tight so I worked a 19mm Socket up in and onto the drain plug fin.
Wrench up under bumper.
It fit great and allowed be to tighten and loosen as needed. You will want to open the filler cap on the expansion tank to allow for the coolant to flow as fast as possible.
You will want to drain all of the coolant out and it will drain 2 gallons 8 quarts total.
Once all of the coolant has drained pour one of the distilled water containers you bought into the expansion tank and let it drain through. It should be clean at this point and no longer yellow. Once this is done tighten back down the radiator drain plug. Now we will fill the system with new coolant, MB recommends that you mix coolant in a 50/50 mixture. In order to do this pour half of one of your MB coolant containers into your now empty water container and then fill the now half empty container with distilled water.
Shake the MB coolant container well to mix the contents equally.
Put the funnel in the expansion tank and pour the contents slowly into the funnel.
It will bubble and take the first gallon, you then must do the last couple steps and pour another gallon into the expansion tank.
Squeezing the top radiator hose will allow for the coolant to settle and get rid of all the air to take all two gallons.
At this point you will cap the expansion tank and turn on the car. You will want to turn on the heater full blast, turn off the air/con and let the car warm up. Once the car is warm rev the engine to allow for the heater coolant to flow properly.
After about 10 minutes you will want to do the flush we just did again to remove any of the coolant that was in the engine block and heater pipes. This may seem overkill but it is worth it in the end. Hope this helps some people with a coolant flush.
I can confirm that an ML430 Alternator Will fit on a 98 ML320
Old Alternator 115 amps
New Alternator 150 amps (woot)
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!!
this time its for real i usually dont bother on other projects but you are about to unscrew the POS pole of your battery from your alternator and inherently your ratchet will touch the gasket causing massive spark inferno possibly melting a whole in it!
1.) remove air filter housing (black box)
2.) remove fan shroud and fan
3.) remove serpentine belt
4.) unscrew the two big bolts holding the alternator in place
5.) give it a little knock downwards (might need a hammer after 10 years this thing wasnt going to go easy!
6.) now that its easy to turn the alternator take of the two (2) cables in the back
7.) put new alternator in place (dont screw it in yet) and reconnect cables
8.) put bolts back in and reassemble in reverse.
NOTES:
fan shroud can be tricky, be patient as the radiator is easily damaged by the corners of the shroud.
doing this on a "cool" car is much easier...!
i know this isn't very detailed but don't hesitate to ask if u need more info!
the hiding bolt
these two need to come out!
disconnect cables: Imageshack - dscn3039q
two attachments points
pats that come off (nuts from alternator cable attachment points not included)
150 amps...
blurry MEH!
BOOM BOOM POW!
Last edited by sgtpepperaut : 09-25-2009 at 05:25 PM.
Detane, can you help us providing the part numbers. I noticed my power stearing leaking and I belived are those seals. Thanks.
I feel bad. I havent been able to visit the site as much as i would like. I have been on tour across the world and just had time today to login. I will get those part numbers up there.
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