Hi everyone. I am new here and love these forums! But let me get right down to it. My 2000 ML320 has a steering issue. I brought it to a shop (non-Mercedes) because the steering was making a loud whineing/grinding sound all of a sudden. They said I need a new Power Steering rack because the Steering Gear is gone. Now they want $2,000 for this repair. I have done a search on this topic and found many similar stories. I want to know what people have done in the past to rectify this problem. I see the posts but I don't see any further responses saying how the problem was fixed once they found the problem. Also, I would like to know what kind of fluid MB uses in the steering system. Power Steering fluid, ATF, etc. The shop reports the problem as a "Large Leak at Steering Gear". Also, the lines are leaking. Aren't those covered for 10 years now after the warranty work was already done to replace them? Thanks in advance for your responses!
Be careful or you are going to become another victim to the crooked Mercedes Benz Dealers' stringing repair schemes, which can run you several thousand dollars easily..
First you should check if the leak came from a lower power steering hose. If the leak is from the lower power steering hoses, then it is covered by warranty/recall, and they need to refill your power steering fluid and remove the air from the system. They usually do not remove the air from the system so most of the time it remains noisy. They will tell you that the only way to fix it is to change the power steering pump, the steering rack, or both..
Per Mercedes Benz technical bulletins, driving for 20 minute without power steering fluid will not damage your pump or steering rack, so if they tell you that the pump or rack is bad since the power steering hose leaked, then you should get a second opinion some part else.
Second there are two parts, the power steering pump and the power steering rack. If it was not the power steering hose, then you need to be careful that they change the correct defective part. Several times they replace the good part and then they string you to pay for the other defective part too, for labor and parts.
Third, you may want to know where the leak is coming from, since depending on the problem, there are ways to easily and very cheaply fix the power steering rack and the power steering pump reservour/gaskets. Check the various posts on that topic in our forum. If the problem was caused by a gasket leak, then most likely the noise is just from low fluid and caused by air in the system and your steering parts are still ok..
If they install a new power steering pump, make sure they install the new updated part number, which is quiet and has a longer life.
Good luck and be careful with certain dealers.. For many of them, we are just cash cows..
AC
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2005 ML 500
Black, 18" AMG Wheels, 285/60R18 Falken Ziex ST/Z + Bi-Xenons(+ Drew's e-code mod), Yakima roof bars. Former vehicle 2001 ML 320 with 108K miles, when traded, and a large repair/defect history.
Thanks for the quick reply AC ML. This is not a MB dealer. They quoted $2K for a new rack not including other parts. I told them I can order one online for $395. I just crawled under the car and it is leaking badly from the steering rack. The fluid is low and I will need to refill it soon. I have not been driving it. I have a second car I can drive for now. Nothing else was leaking but I did find that the clamp everyone talks about was loose. So I already tightened that up. I was hopefull it was the resivour or the gasket like everyone else. The pump seems to work fine. I will make sure they lift the vehicle and turn the steering wheel 30 times to make sure the air is purged.
I am very cautious around the MB dealers. I have gone in for a tire rotation only to have them tell me they changed parts to "fix" problems when I did not even have problems in those areas. And when you ask to see the old parts they tell you the scrap dealer has already taken them. Something fishy there.
That is very similar. My steering gear has a bad growl to it though now. I had not noticed I had lost the fluid till I was on the road. I turned the wheel to get out of the driveway and the steering was very hard and loud. It was running great the day before. I wonder if everyone should contact NHTSA or something to report this safety concern? Seems like all the W163's and even some W164's are having these problems.
The 2000 Ml was what is called a "split year" production; meaning that many parts were changed during the production year, and the rack and pinion was one of them. If you have the early build (up to 9/2000 the cost is $2,720). If you have the later build (from 9/2000 the cost is $1,420). These prices are from the dealer and why the vast difference in price, I do not know, but they have two different part numbers.
So, this is the first thing that you have to contend with, getting the correct rack if you intend on getting it on line. Where you were getting this rack from I have no idea, but keep in mind that the R&I (removal and installation) of the rack is labor intensive, up to 4.5 hrs. There will be no way for the mechanic to know if you have supplied him with the correct rack [b]UNTIL[b] until he has removed your old rack and visually compares it to the old. If the rack is not correct he will not be very happy because now he will have to reinstall your old rack so he can get your truck off his lift, while you complete your on-line transaction which will take days. What this means is that you will be paying DOUBLE labor for rack installation. For this reason, and this reason alone, most mechanics will not install customer supplied parts, especially if it is labor intensive.
R&I of the rack on this truck is a real PIA, because it requires the loosening or removal of the carrier support, proper removal and disconnection of the steering angle sensor, proper locking of the steering gear so as not to damage the SRS clock spring and horn contact, and a host of other variables which can come into play. This is why you are paying someone to do this job, because you yourself are unable to do it. Also remember that if the mechanic supplies the part it is he that has the headaches of getting the correct part and you do not pay any more labor than what was originally agreed on.
Whatever your decision is, as to who and where this repair will be, when you deliver the truck, make absolutely sure that you show the mechanic or the service rep at the dealer, that there are no ESP light, no SRS light on, or any other telltale light on the instrument cluster, and that your horn is functional. This is to protect you from being charged for parts that are damaged during the R&I. Good luck and hopefully you make the right decision.
43 is a SUPER contributor to this board - who else would know the "split" for this model year, huh !
On the rebuilt side, carsteering.com offers a rebuilt rach for $400 + $150 core charge, but since they show the same part# for the entire model year, with the 43 update on "split year" I would call carsteering.com about their specific rebuilt steering rack.
I am not in touch by experience here, since I have never had a major steering failure (reservoir leaks - yes - all 3 ML's) much less a rack failure - which is not to say it can't happen, fortunately it hasn't happened to me !
Thanks for the info. 43sqd. I ordered one online from Mercedes Steering . I got the exact replacement # by calling the dealer back. I will not be doing the work myself considering it is so labor intensive. But at least with this one they offer a 3 year warranty. It is hard comming up with that kind of $ so soon after Christmas. That is great advice about checking the warning lights on the dash and checking the horn. The horn should work considering I just had to replace it last month to pass inspection. Hopefully the part will be here soon so they can begin the teardown.
Thanks fabbrisd1. I had just noticed that these have been failing for a lot of the members here. I think if it gets reported enough to NHTSA, they have to issue a recall. That way other owners will at least know this is a very dangerous potential hazzard. I can drive a vehicle like this without power steering. I have had to do it before on full sized trucks. But people smaller than I or some women may have an issue keeping control of the vehicle if they were to suddenly lose power. I can imagine some small lady actually being turned in her seat by the steeringwheel. On a side note, does anyone know how to find the manufacture date so people will know what rack to buy?
You were right about the 2 different part numbers. I looked it up. I did order the ealier version. I used a vin decoder to find the build date. 15/10/99. So I have the first version. Dealer gave me the # also. 1634600425RA. Thanks for all your help everyone.
Power Steering Gear 
Linear Mode
