P0175, replaced conductor plate, now no gears...help!
2000 ML320 95k
I finished replacing the conductor plate in the tranny today.
Removed 1.3gal fluid,(way more than the 3-4L expected), only refilled with 4L, thats all I had on hand.
Old fluid was dirty with particles and few micro specs of metal, but nothing serious, just incredibly dirty.
After re-installing everything, I started it up, shifted into D (which was noticebly smoother already), and slid slowly out of the garage. I stopped to back up and Reverse, and no go. Then back to D, no go again. There was no engagement by the tranny into any gear, nor was there a clunk when doing so.
So, it seems to me that the valve body isnt engaging, its electrical, or an acuator. My tranny electrical connector did have a little oil in it, but it wasnt flooded, I cleaned it thoroughly before reinstalling..
Practically every new member does not fully complete the registration form by including the year and model of their vehicle. Please click on USER CP to the left, then click on EDIT PROFILE, scroll down to ADDITIONAL INFORMATION and insert the year and model of your truck.
The code you posted, P0175 (System to Rich Bank 2) has nothing to do with your trans. problem. But before anything, I would add the almost one litre of fluid you are short and see if that makes things better. If not, you will have to retrace your steps in removal and installation of the conductor plate.
P0175 is the tranny speed sensor problem. I replaced the conductor plate as was indicated above.
Now the gears do not engage. I am going to get the oil today but was curious if that could really be a problem, i.e. pressure in the system. I have retraced everything with no apparent issues.
P0175 is the tranny speed sensor problem. I replaced the conductor plate as was indicated above.
Now the gears do not engage. I am going to get the oil today but was curious if that could really be a problem, i.e. pressure in the system. I have retraced everything with no apparent issues.
To do the tranny plate means removing the valve body, I would re-check the internal gear lever connection (ive seen this go wrong before) By that I mean the connection to the valve body. If its in the wrong position then this could happen. But how did you check the tranny oil level?
__________________
ERIC
Last edited by eric242340 : 02-04-2008 at 07:07 AM.
There were 2 areas I though of and checked.
1. Metal lever which slides into gear slot, its seated as when removed.
2. Sliding piston with orangy/red plastic square piece of end.
It had to be pushed in/retracted into valve body, in order for the entire assembly to go back into the tranny. (i noticed when i removed the valve body, it slid out slowly)
The tranny oil is insufficient as I only had 3.5L (approx) on hand, but removed 5.5L in the disassembly. So I know its at least 2L low.
I am thinking this could cause a hydraulic problem as there is not enough fluid to actuate the valve body, but dont know at this point.
Lookinf for other ideas.
The tranny does not engage R or D, they both feel like N, engine just revs. There is not apparent lurch or thump when shifting between them either.
Put the fluid level right first and dont drive it until you have or damage could occur. Also check the fluid level with engine running and at normal working temperature approx 80 degrees C.
P0175 is the tranny speed sensor problem. I replaced the conductor plate as was indicated above.
Now the gears do not engage. I am going to get the oil today but was curious if that could really be a problem, i.e. pressure in the system. I have retraced everything with no apparent issues.
The code you mean is P0715 which is the TurbineSpeed Sensor. As eric and I have suggested, put in the correct amount of fluid and lastly check with the proper dipstick, part #140 589 15 21 00. Then you will need a new idpstick tube cap, part #140 991 00 55. If the fluid process fails, you will have to drop the unit again and replace the RMP/speed sensors.
The first thing I am doing is getting the oil to get it back to the correct level. If that doesnt work, then it seems mechanical as I was told, even if there is an electrical issue, 1st gear forward shoud work either way.
I replaced the entire conductor plate because of the fault code so it would be odd for one of the sensors on there to be broken.
I would think it could be the valve body since its not actuating at all.
Heres the entire story.
I replaced the conductor plate draining 5.5L of fluid.
I put in 3L because thats what I had on hand, tranny wouldnt engage, slid right into R and D like they were N, no thump or jump as if a gear was engaged.
I put in another 1.5L and measured with disptick tool. Tranny engaged great but was still stuck in limp mode.
Dipstick says I am 1/2inch over max fill. I remove 1L and let the car sit for a while. Disptick measures acceptable level. I let the car sit because I needed to take it to the dealer the next day for the TCM/ECU.
ok, so again, car doesnt move, total oil replaced is 3.5L of 5.5L removed, but dipstick says I am at max when warm.
SOOOO, logic woudl dictate that fluid is low, thus the lack of engagement of gear, but dipstick says otherwise, whats the deal?????
FYI, when car started today, it moved slightly in R and D but after a few feet just started revving the engine, stopped moving. Waiting a few minutes, tried R and D again, moved a little bit and then revving.
Please someone give me the answer or is it just in front of me, forget the dipstick and put the same amount of fluid back in that I extracted, which was factory fill???